Just Fishing's 09 Tahoe Build thread

[Just Fishing]

And since i had the seats out and needed to get them out of the garage.
I took some pictures of this weird second row conversion that someone made.

My Tahoe has captains chairs, but some prior owner wanted a bench.
their solution was this.



bolts in with 4 bolts, and they have a little bracket that bolts between the two captain chair bracket mounts.
Has a nice little storage in the seat bottom.


bracket on the floor.

 

[Just Fishing]

 

[Just Fishing]

I have a love hate relationship with it.
Biggest complaint is that it won't fold up with the seats.
Making carrying cargo a pita.

Last time i was under the hoe i confirmed that there are no through bolts for it, so last night i decided to try removing it.
It went much smoother than i had expected.
and it looks like if i were to fully delete it, it would be a clean removal.

 

[Just Fishing]

one more picture,
with it folded down.

 

[Just Fishing]

Building my shopping cart up with AN fitting.

Looking to do my transmission cooler and engine oil cooler, but the engine oil cooler may stay bypassed for now...
depending on my level of motivation.

I'm planning to use aluminum 1/2in tubing for most of the run, and then attach braided ss line for areas that i think might need some flex or shock absorbing function.

I have always used these type of fittings in the past with -6an.

Summit Racing SUM-220833-2B Summit Racing™ Tube Nuts | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Summit Racing™ Tube Nuts with qualifying orders of $109. Shop AN Tube Nuts at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Then of course you have these little sleeves to support the tubing: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220834-2b

then I see a compression style.
looks like my bends would be longer, but probably more for high pressure i would assume.
I don't see going over 100psi with these connections...

Thoughts if i should focus more on the compression style, or will the flared tubing and the sleeves work good enough?

 

[pwtr02ss]

Building my shopping cart up with AN fitting.

Looking to do my transmission cooler and engine oil cooler, but the engine oil cooler may stay bypassed for now...
depending on my level of motivation.

I'm planning to use aluminum 1/2in tubing for most of the run, and then attach braided ss line for areas that i think might need some flex or shock absorbing function.

I have always used these type of fittings in the past with -6an.

Summit Racing SUM-220833-2B Summit Racing™ Tube Nuts | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Summit Racing™ Tube Nuts with qualifying orders of $109. Shop AN Tube Nuts at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Then of course you have these little sleeves to support the tubing: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220834-2b

then I see a compression style.
looks like my bends would be longer, but probably more for high pressure i would assume.
I don't see going over 100psi with these connections...

Thoughts if i should focus more on the compression style, or will the flared tubing and the sleeves work good enough?

I have standard braided line on the trans lines on the ls swapped c10 I have. I only did hard line from the radiator to the bend at the frame. I transitioned to braided there. No problems with the standard 6an fittings.

I used 3/8 hard line though, not 1/2"

 

[Just Fishing]

i'm going to rock the tube nuts, cheaper and i already have a flaring tool for AN fitting.

And one concern i had was that the converter ballooned or was ballooning.
meaning that i might have redux with the new crank later on.
then while sucking up as much knowledge as i can about thrust bearing failure, i ran into this little video from Hughes converters.

ETA: yeah blocked.
Link, just add https
://youtu.be/6Qid0-GaW44

Tons of info, but he mentions that once a converter balloons, it's stuck that way and it can't return to normal.
So, no such thing as a converter ballooning and returning to normal.

As for engine removal tasks.
I would love to not touch my head gaskets...

I understand that I might be able to drop the transmission and engine down at an angle, and that might give me room to get an impact with super long extension up at the top.
has anyone ever done that?
tips, tricks, etc?

Otherwise, i have one spare set of head gaskets on hand.

 

[pwtr02ss]

i'm going to rock the tube nuts, cheaper and i already have a flaring tool for AN fitting.

And one concern i had was that the converter ballooned or was ballooning.
meaning that i might have redux with the new crank later on.
then while sucking up as much knowledge as i can about thrust bearing failure, i ran into this little video from Hughes converters.

ETA: yeah blocked.
Link, just add https
://youtu.be/6Qid0-GaW44

Tons of info, but he mentions that once a converter balloons, it's stuck that way and it can't return to normal.
So, no such thing as a converter ballooning and returning to normal.

As for engine removal tasks.
I would love to not touch my head gaskets...

I understand that I might be able to drop the transmission and engine down at an angle, and that might give me room to get an impact with super long extension up at the top.
has anyone ever done that?
tips, tricks, etc?

Otherwise, i have one spare set of head gaskets on hand.

What are you trying to do without take the heads off?

If its pulling the engine, not a problem. Mine were on when I pulled it and put it back in

Either pull the balancer off while it's in the truck or pull the passenger side manifold. I forgot I took the balancer off in the truck so I had to pull the manifold back off before it would fit. I chose passenger because it was the easiest

 

[Just Fishing]

What are you trying to do without take the heads off?

If its pulling the engine, not a problem. Mine were on when I pulled it and put it back in

Either pull the balancer off while it's in the truck or pull the passenger side manifold. I forgot I took the balancer off in the truck so I had to pull the manifold back off before it would fit. I chose passenger because it was the easiest

Doing the Crank and main bearings.

Did you need to unbolt the crossmember for the transmission at all?
I'm thinking i might need to do that and allow the transmission to drop a little, and to angle the engine back in order to get to the top bolts on the engine.

 

[pwtr02ss]

Doing the Crank and main bearings.

Did you need to unbolt the crossmember for the transmission at all?
I'm thinking i might need to do that and allow the transmission to drop a little, and to angle the engine back in order to get to the top bolts on the engine.

You'll have to let the trans down some. Pull the intake off and get at the top bolts. It's much easier, especially for reassembly. I fought with the top bolts longer than I care for