Gruven heater core T-connectors

[Smrtss1]

I wonder if I placed 2 separate orders for a single “t” if it would help get the ball rolling sooner. I believe I need 2 for the reAr heat. The more I read about these failing makes me want to replace mine, but if I’ll have to wait months I’ll just buy the oem version and hope they last long enough.

Two separate single orders won’t make a difference. It’s exactly what I did because I forgot to change the quantity to 2.


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[SnowDrifter]

Has Gruven presented a cad / 3d drawing of the prospective part?

Here's why I ask: The posted example pictures are for barbed hose ends. Not the quick connect fittings like we have. Based on the info I've gathered from this thread, it sounds like it'll be a barbed T-fitting that you slip a hose onto and clamp in the appropriate areas.

In that case, I'm really not seeing an advantage over these things, which you can grab for 10 bucks.


To put it differently, T fittings are already available. What makes their product, which is more expensive, not yet on market, no date to have on market, and without any sketches/drawings better than this?

 

[Smrtss1]

Has Gruven presented a cad / 3d drawing of the prospective part?

Here's why I ask: The posted example pictures are for barbed hose ends. Not the quick connect fittings like we have. Based on the info I've gathered from this thread, it sounds like it'll be a barbed T-fitting that you slip a hose onto and clamp in the appropriate areas.

In that case, I'm really not seeing an advantage over these things, which you can grab for 10 bucks.


To put it differently, T fittings are already available. What makes their product, which is more expensive, not yet on market, no date to have on market, and without any sketches/drawings better than this?

Figure out what fitting works, get a manufacturer and part number and let us know.


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[gooffeyguy]

Has Gruven presented a cad / 3d drawing of the prospective part?

Here's why I ask: The posted example pictures are for barbed hose ends. Not the quick connect fittings like we have. Based on the info I've gathered from this thread, it sounds like it'll be a barbed T-fitting that you slip a hose onto and clamp in the appropriate areas.

In that case, I'm really not seeing an advantage over these things, which you can grab for 10 bucks.


To put it differently, T fittings are already available. What makes their product, which is more expensive, not yet on market, no date to have on market, and without any sketches/drawings better than this?

The Gruven part is billet, not brass..... Duh

Lol

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

 

[kbuskill]

Has Gruven presented a cad / 3d drawing of the prospective part?

Here's why I ask: The posted example pictures are for barbed hose ends. Not the quick connect fittings like we have. Based on the info I've gathered from this thread, it sounds like it'll be a barbed T-fitting that you slip a hose onto and clamp in the appropriate areas.

In that case, I'm really not seeing an advantage over these things, which you can grab for 10 bucks.


To put it differently, T fittings are already available. What makes their product, which is more expensive, not yet on market, no date to have on market, and without any sketches/drawings better than this?

The picture is of the actual design.

The problem is that the rear heater core lines are a different size which makes finding an off the shelf part more difficult... perhaps not impossible but more difficult.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Has Gruven presented a cad / 3d drawing of the prospective part?

Here's why I ask: The posted example pictures are for barbed hose ends. Not the quick connect fittings like we have. Based on the info I've gathered from this thread, it sounds like it'll be a barbed T-fitting that you slip a hose onto and clamp in the appropriate areas.

In that case, I'm really not seeing an advantage over these things, which you can grab for 10 bucks.


To put it differently, T fittings are already available. What makes their product, which is more expensive, not yet on market, no date to have on market, and without any sketches/drawings better than this?

Figure out what fitting works, get a manufacturer and part number and let us know.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The Gruven part is billet, not brass..... Duh

Lol

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

The picture is of the actual design.

The problem is that the rear heater core lines are a different size which makes finding an off the shelf part more difficult... perhaps not impossible but more difficult.

Dig around at www.mcmastercarr.com. I don't know the exact hose sizes needed, but when I looked (and decided NOT to send Gruven any money) I found multiple brass, aluminum, or stainless options in tee or even wye, that look like we could make them work.

 

[89Suburban]

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NDP6601666

 

[HiHoeSilver]

@kbuskill do you know the hose sizes and their configuration on the Tee?

 

[kbuskill]

@kbuskill do you know the hose sizes and their configuration on the Tee?

The front heater core line measures ¾” OD and the rear heater core line measures ½” OD.


The 3rd fitting that goes back to the engine measures 5/8” OD.

This is why it is hard to find a fitting without using several adapters.

 

[Rocket Man]

The front heater core line measures ¾” OD and the rear heater core line measures ½” OD.


The 3rd fitting that goes back to the engine measures 5/8” OD.

This is why it is hard to find a fitting without using several adapters.

Seems that ID of the line is what matters. Why are you giving the OD? Or are those the OD sizes of the fitting? I’m confused.

 

[kbuskill]

Seems that ID of the line is what matters. Why are you giving the OD? Or are those the OD sizes of the fitting? I’m confused.

Those are OD sizes of the fitting... sorry for any confusion.

 

[Smrtss1]

Sent an email asking for a refund and got this back. Sorry but 6 months is plenty of time to run a few out.

“Ok and sorry for all this. These parts are now being made finally despite very very low demand.

The site price will likely go up as well to account for the limited production batch unfortunately.

Check back when actual part pics have been posted on the site rather than CAD renderings and I will also update the site text to show when actual parts are ready for shipment, if you are still interested down the road.

Meantime, hopefully the cheap plastic fittings don’t do what they do best…”

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Sent an email asking for a refund and got this back. Sorry but 6 months is plenty of time to run a few out.

“Ok and sorry for all this. These parts are now being made finally despite very very low demand.

The site price will likely go up as well to account for the limited production batch unfortunately.

Check back when actual part pics have been posted on the site rather than CAD renderings and I will also update the site text to show when actual parts are ready for shipment, if you are still interested down the road.

Meantime, hopefully the cheap plastic fittings don’t do what they do best…”

Soooooo..... $ back?

 

[Tonyrodz]

Soooooo..... $ back?

I'd say no.

 

[Smrtss1]

Money is already back in PayPal.


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[thompsoj22]

So, I finally got around to changing out "all hoses" and the T fittings with 100% oem components. Those T fittings are a bit of a pita to remove from up under the firewall, I cant imagine being on the side of the road or in a autoparts parking lot and having to do it! especially if it was a hot engine. Just for kicks i put the old T fittings in the vice and bent/tweaked them but they wouldent break. I think these were the original set so 11 years old. Also i bought 2 gallons of dexcool concentrate and should have only bought 1. i now have a gallon and a half left over, i could only get about 10 qts back into the system and i did a full flush and purged with compressed air prior to refill. Bottom line is i think the OEM components are solid parts, I can see how degraded coolant may attribute to plastic parts failing prematurely and add the "china dorman" knockoffs in and you have everything required for a perceived crappy factory design. I should have replaced the water pump, murphy's law says it will start leaking within 6 months of a coolant change lol.

 

[gooffeyguy]

My 2001 with 200k miles still has the original T fittings (knock on wood) lol

Granted, I've not had to do any work on the motor except to change plugs and wires. Still has original hoses and accessories. I'm sure if I've done work like replacing hoses, heater core, intake manifold/valve cover gaskets, etc. they might have gotten tweaked and damaged and failed before now.

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

 

[Rocket Man]

So, I finally got around to changing out "all hoses" and the T fittings with 100% oem components. Those T fittings are a bit of a pita to remove from up under the firewall, I cant imagine being on the side of the road or in a autoparts parking lot and having to do it! especially if it was a hot engine. Just for kicks i put the old T fittings in the vice and bent/tweaked them but they wouldent break. I think these were the original set so 11 years old. Also i bought 2 gallons of dexcool concentrate and should have only bought 1. i now have a gallon and a half left over, i could only get about 10 qts back into the system and i did a full flush and purged with compressed air prior to refill. Bottom line is i think the OEM components are solid parts, I can see how degraded coolant may attribute to plastic parts failing prematurely and add the "china dorman" knockoffs in and you have everything required for a perceived crappy factory design. I should have replaced the water pump, murphy's law says it will start leaking within 6 months of a coolant change lol.

My 2001 with 200k miles still has the original T fittings (knock on wood) lol

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

I agree that as long as we don’t replace the original fittings with Dorman parts we should be fine and should treat this as a maintenance issue that needs to be done pre-emptively. I will be replacing my OE parts that are now going on 17 years old with new OE parts next weekend. There have been issues with the Dorman parts breaking soon after install. I’m a firm believer that there are very few parts on my truck that I trust Dorman with, but if it’s hard to get to or critical, you can be sure it won’t be Dorman. I figure if ANY part lasts for 15+ years it doesn’t need to be redesigned but maybe just replaced with the same quality part. As far as difficulty replacing them, I plan on just plain cutting the old ones off with some tin snips. No sense being careful, just destroy the damn things. As long as what they connect to doesn’t get hurt, you’re good to go.

 

[Tonyrodz]

I replaced mine 1 1/2 ago, due to my error. I leaned on it trying to fix something else, so then I had 2 issues--stuck on the side of the road. Bought a new GM replacement.

 

[Tonyrodz]

The damn offender.