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6.2 swap thread

Discussion in 'Engine & Drivetrain' started by ls1frc, Sep 8, 2020.

  1. ls1frc

    ls1frc Full Access Member

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    Took me forever to do that, it had been years since I busted out that gear and I forgot how to do it lol. But I needed it done for peace of mind since there is so much conflicting info about VVT and what the base advance is. Now I know parked position = whatever is ground in the cam. I can tune the cam phaser tables now to retard it to 0 advance by the top of the RPM range now and be confident it's doing what it's supposed to be doing.

    Tonight I'll finish buttoning up the bottom end. Likely taking off this Thurs and Friday to drop it in. I'm gonna make sure to write down all the torque specs the night before so I can just fly through it.
     
  2. ls1frc

    ls1frc Full Access Member

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    Spent tonight doing

    1) Installed cam phaser limiter
    2) Installed new cam retaining plate
    3) Installed the new TTY VVT cam bolt

    I really took my time with the cam bolt because it is difficult to line up the pin and the torque specs are insane. On first try, I screwed up lining the pin up. The nice thing about having the heads off is I can look at the camshaft while I am tightening the bolt. Luckily, I caught that the camshaft was moving but the crankshaft wasn't, so I knew the pin wasn't properly seated in the sprocket.

    Tomorrow I will tackle the final part of the block rebuild and that's just the front/rear covers/seals + the oil pan gasket.

    Thurs/Fri will be installation.
     
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  3. Geotrash

    Geotrash Supporting Member

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    Thanks for keeping us up-to-date on your progress. I’m enjoying following along.

    Also, I respect your attention to detail in doing the job right. Not everyone would notice that they hadn’t gotten the pin seated in the sprocket right.
     
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  4. 1BADI5

    1BADI5 Full Access Member

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    Interesting read for sure since I have been pondering a 6.2 swap; the aluminum block is a 120# weight reduction compared to my iron block LMG.

    So a few notes/thoughts or opinions

    Exhaust - very subjective, its all what you can live with. On my truck I have a TSP Long tube, custom catless 3" Y pipe, factory piping with a Magnaflow 12259 and resonator delete. Its loud and smells, but I love it. It smell will be less annoying once I can run E85 again

    Performance - those that have discussed the 0-60 and so on. Some things to think of or consider since I did not observe my talk about.......gearing. I swapped from 3.08 to 3.73 with a trutrac from Yukon Gear and axle........huge improvement without a cam or other power adder. Weight is another consideration.....where can you shave it.

    Along with gears having the appropriate sized stall converter will assist in the performance and should actual save you gas on the highway with quicker lock ups. I went with Circle D Billet 3200 stall. Also keep in mind you should have your truck retuned with the new converter. I need to get mine installed and retuned - hopefully in the next 2 weeks.

    Right now my truck is running on a safe tune since I ran out of injector on the dyno. We got to 360 wheel before the duty cycle was at 100% @ 5900rpm. I have some new GM injectors from a L94 since they're 54# injectors, the LMG has 38# injectors; both rated for E85. The L94 injectors are a about 2mm shorter then the LMG injectors, but the FAST intake can accommodate all kinds of injectors.

    Before the cam, heads, AFM and VVT delete, I ran a 5.8 0-60 and 13.94 1320. (full exhaust, tune, FAST LSX r/t 102 intake and Snake Eater 102mm TB
     
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  5. PatDTN

    PatDTN Full Access Member

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    I'm just about done with the 6.2 conversion but I'm broke and had to cut some corners. I hope it doesn't bite me. It's at the tuner now getting set up.

    I didn't have VVT on my '09 Tahoe so I deleted that and the AFM with a kit from Texas Speed. They sold me an LS9 cam, lifters, and springs. I'll see how it does with the stock 5.3 exhaust.

    Looking forward to seeing yours done. I looked at your profile to see if you're nearby since I have a heated garage...

    (edited to correct autocorrupted VVT into Vet)
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2020
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  6. ls1frc

    ls1frc Full Access Member

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    Thank you, it scared the shit out of me thinking what would have happened if I had torqued it to the ridiculous torque it requires. I am definitely taking my time with this build because there are so many changes and new parts vs just the DOD delete I did on the 5.3.


    Those are awesome times. I'd be ecstatic if I could dip into the 13s with this build. We'll see.


    Yeah exhaust is subjective, and it's subjectively established that my wife hates any noise/smell lol. I do as well. She hasn't said a word about the current headers, so they are staying. I just hate how they leak, so Kooks offered to take a look and fix the ball/flange connections. I'll run with manifolds for a couple weeks while the headers are over there. I just need to figure out a quiet 3.5" exhaust setup. I was thinking of buying the Magnaflow because it looks like the first straight pipe has enough room to cut out and put an entirely other muffler in it's place.

    You are correct on gearing/stall for sure but I am keeping things close to stock here. I just bought a new flywheel/ZL1 torque converter. I'll gain a little bit stall speed. Looks like its 2300 in the Escalades per a youtube video I found. My Yukon was only doing like 1400.

    Thank you, I appreciate lookin out! Hopefully yours runs without issue. I feel like there's so much shit that was pulled off and re-installed, my pessimism is kicking in hard about something being wrong on first startup.
     
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  7. ls1frc

    ls1frc Full Access Member

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    Lol of course this happened. Was expecting my ZL1 stall today. It's right near my house. Says "Delivery exception, was unable to deliver".

    With no reasoning.
     
  8. PatDTN

    PatDTN Full Access Member

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    I have to say I surprised myself when I turned the key and it roared to life! By roared I mean I didn't tighten down that ball connection between the manifold and down pipe. My 5.3 had a bolt in place of one of the 3 studs so I was one nut short. I found one and thought it fit. Turns out it was the wrong thread and locked up. That left things twisted. I found the correct thread nut and amazingly it threaded right on after using my air gun to tighten the wrong one on.

    I danced around the three tightening them evenly and everything seated and sealed. Next time I started it it was nice and quiet.

    It would run a few seconds and shut down. The computer wasn't happy. It's with the tuner now. I had hoped I'd have it back but snow and wet roads made him uncomfortable doing the street tune.
     
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  9. ls1frc

    ls1frc Full Access Member

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    Tonight's progress.

    -Front and rear covers with oil pan gasket. Used the Mr Gasket alignment tools.
    -New front/rear seals
    -New barbell oil plug and new freeze plugs in every location. I only left the one behind the front cover alone, didn't want to mess with getting that out since it's pressed in tight.
    -Installed all 16 Johnson lifters
    -Measured for pushrod length with no head gakset. Came out to 7.225". 7.225 + .040" gasket + .045" recommended preload = 7.310" pushrods. I have a set of 7.325" laying around, so I will use those to put me at .060" which is still within the plunger range. I will remeasure once the heads are on and torqued down. Worst case, I will overnight a set.


    Tomorrow I will begin pulling the old engine out. Sucks my torque converter delivery missed, it will suck if it doesn't get delivered until late tomorrow.

    20201202_231706.jpg 20201202_220059.jpg 20201202_220053.jpg
     
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  10. ls1frc

    ls1frc Full Access Member

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    So since my torque converter still hasn't delivered, I decided to just tackle what I thought was a simple transmission pan swap. I didnt want to start my engine teardown then the torque converter gets lost or something. No idea whats going on at Fedex keeps saying being delivered then an exception but I am home all day. I am going to have it dropped at a walgreens.

    Anyway, so I go to swap the b&m pan on. Everything is going well. Got the old fluid out without making a mess.

    I go to torque the pan on.

    Problem #1. Missing one of the bolts.
    Problem #2. The bolts they provide are way too long. They were bottoming out way before the washer hit the pan.
    Problem #3. The stock bolts cannot be used! They are too wide.
    Problem #4. My Yukon is my only vehicle while wife is at work.
    Problem #5. My Kooks y pipe had no clearance.

    So I hopped on my nice Trek bike and went to the hardware store. They didnt have any button head bolts, so I picked up 36 washers. I then tripled up the washers on the b&m bolts and just left one hole empty. Its not leaking so far but first thing tomorrow I will go get some new bolts and replace them.

    The Kooks midpipe problem was a bitch because theyre slipfit and were the biggest PITA to separate. I spent an hour with a torch and peneteating oil and finally got them apart.

    Then I went to get my exhaust expander and the oring that holds it together broke lol. So I could not expand the exhaust to make it easier. I ended up just cleaning it as best I can and applied grease to the connections then I just forced them back together. I was able to get the clearance I needed which was a relief. I was thinking maybe the pan was only designed for stock but luckily it clears.

    Its a real nice piece I just wish they sent the correct hardware.

    20201203_131555.jpg
     
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