2007 Tahoe 5.3l AFM DOD delete thread

[Taheezy_88]

I have a 07 Tahoe 5.3l that recently had issues with oil pressure, stabilitrak, low oil pressure shut off engine errors, p0621, p0300, and p0304 codes. I started replacing the MAF, TB, and Spark plugs & wires. After the spark plug and wires I developed a knock couple days later. I since then tore the engine apart and found a stuck Lifter above Cylinder #4 where I was getting my misfire code from. Link to my other thread determining the stabilitrak issue.

I opted to do the full AFM dod delete and will send my ecm to Brendan http://www.lt1swap.com/afm_delete.htm to cancle out the AFM.

Today weather is spotty so I took a break from the Tahoe. All that is left to remove are the water pump, timing cover, crankshaft pulley, cam, etc.

I have the Heads at a local machine shop getting resurfaced, cleaned, new springs, and new valve seals expect to have at the end of the week. Will post pics when recieved.

I am currently putting together my parts list and I have the following. Anyone can confirm these parts for me would be greatly appreciated.

Head Gaskets #12498544
Head Bolts #17800568
Valley Cover Plate #12598832 QUESTION* Do I need the Valley plate with or without the PCV?
Lifters #12499225
Timing cover gasket set? or could I buy at local parts store.
Lifter guides #12595365
Cam thrust plate #12589016
Intake/Exhaust Manifold gaskets will buy from local parts store.
Cam Sprocket #12586481
3 Cam Bolts # 12556127
L33 Cam #12583623
Harmonic Balancer bolt?
New water pump local parts store
New oil pressure unit deal local parts store
New exhaust manifold bolts

any other parts I am missing?

If anyone has a decent AFM kit please share but as of now I will be buying parts separately.

This is my first cam install and I am researching as much I can. I will be having questions along the way so just bare with them thank you.

Question #1 Turning crank bolt to get TDC? Clockwise I assume. With old cam still in or with it removed? I would like to have the crank bolt lined up at 12 o'clock before installing new cam if that is possible. Any tutorial thread or vid on crank placement to make the alignment as smooth as possible. Tomorrow I will be removing the old cam.

Question #2 Lifter installation. When removing my lifters some stayed in the block and some came out with plastic tray. When installing new lifters will they be placed in the block and plastic trays over them? or vice versa. Also spring lifters and roller lifter placement?

Advice so far for anyone going to do this are PB Blaster, Zip ties for electrical, 18 inch break bar any longer its trouble to maneuver and a Milwaukee m12 3/8 ratchet tool it will save alot of trouble once you broke loose bolts.

I am ocd on knowing every correct aspect and will not move forward unless I know 100% what I am doing is right. I will be taking my time with this project and hope this thread can help anyone who may have the same issues or questions. Thank you.
View attachment 272441

 

[kbuskill]

As for crank placement before or after removing cam is irrelevant as you have the heads off and therefore the valves aren't there to be opened or closed and you are replacing the cam.

The dot on the crank gear should be at the 12 o'clock position and cylinder 1 should be at TDC.

 

[iamdub]

Answers in red:

I have a 07 Tahoe 5.3l that recently had issues with oil pressure, stabilitrak, low oil pressure shut off engine errors, p0621, p0300, and p0304 codes. I started replacing the MAF, TB, and Spark plugs & wires. After the spark plug and wires I developed a knock couple days later. I since then tore the engine apart and found a stuck Lifter above Cylinder #4 where I was getting my misfire code from. Link to my other thread determining the stabilitrak issue.

I opted to do the full AFM dod delete and will send my ecm to Brendan http://www.lt1swap.com/afm_delete.htm to cancle out the AFM.

Today weather is spotty so I took a break from the Tahoe. All that is left to remove are the water pump, timing cover, crankshaft pulley, cam, etc.

I have the Heads at a local machine shop getting resurfaced, cleaned, new springs, and new valve seals expect to have at the end of the week. Will post pics when recieved.

I am currently putting together my parts list and I have the following. Anyone can confirm these parts for me would be greatly appreciated.

Head Gaskets #12498544 Sold individually- be sure you get two
Head Bolts #17800568 Look at Summit Racing head bolts. They're the cheapest I found and are just re-packaged OEM.
Valley Cover Plate #12598832 QUESTION* Do I need the Valley plate with or without the PCV? No valley pan PCV on GenIV engine
Lifters #12499225 Sixteen of these
Timing cover gasket set? or could I buy at local parts store. Fel-Pro TCS 45993
Lifter guides #12595365 You'll need four of these
Cam thrust plate #12589016 I don't like the countersunk screws. I always use the Gen3 one (Mahle B31822) and ARP bolts (134-1002)
Intake/Exhaust Manifold gaskets will buy from local parts store. I like Mahle MS16340 for intake and MS16124 for exhaust
Cam Sprocket #12586481 Yup. Unless you get a single bolt cam like that Summit one we discussed
3 Cam Bolts # 12556127 Or ARP 134-1003. They're usually cheaper than OEM cam bolts
L33 Cam #12583623 Or that Summit cam. Then you wouldn't need the cam sprocket and three bolts, just one new OEM cam bolt
Harmonic Balancer bolt? GM #12557840 for OEM TTY (Cheap but one-time-use only) or ARP 234-2503 (Costs a lot more and can be reused)
New water pump local parts store Avoid cheap aftermarket brands!
New oil pressure unit deal local parts store Definitely another ACDelco part here.
New exhaust manifold bolts I've never had a problem with OEM or the Dorman replacements. But ARP is highly advised here. 134-1101, I think

any other parts I am missing? I strongly suggest replacing the pickup tube O-ring. You'll need new O-rings for the coolant steam tube fittings and block-offs- HERE. New rocker cover gaskets and grommets? Updated DS rocker cover?

If anyone has a decent AFM kit please share but as of now I will be buying parts separately.

This is my first cam install and I am researching as much I can. I will be having questions along the way so just bare with them thank you.

Question #1 Turning crank bolt to get TDC? Clockwise I assume. With old cam still in or with it removed? I would like to have the crank bolt lined up at 12 o'clock before installing new cam if that is possible. Any tutorial thread or vid on crank placement to make the alignment as smooth as possible. Tomorrow I will be removing the old cam. You're overthinking it. I linked a vid in your other thread.

Question #2 Lifter installation. When removing my lifters some stayed in the block and some came out with plastic tray. When installing new lifters will they be placed in the block and plastic trays over them? or vice versa. Also spring lifters and roller lifter placement? Definitely easier to snap them into the new trays and insert them into the bores, so four at a time.

Advice so far for anyone going to do this are PB Blaster, Zip ties for electrical, 18 inch break bar any longer its trouble to maneuver and a Milwaukee m12 3/8 ratchet tool it will save alot of trouble once you broke loose bolts.

I am ocd on knowing every correct aspect and will not move forward unless I know 100% what I am doing is right. I will be taking my time with this project and hope this thread can help anyone who may have the same issues or questions. Thank you.
View attachment 272441

 

[Geotrash]

I have a 07 Tahoe 5.3l that recently had issues with oil pressure, stabilitrak, low oil pressure shut off engine errors, p0621, p0300, and p0304 codes. I started replacing the MAF, TB, and Spark plugs & wires. After the spark plug and wires I developed a knock couple days later. I since then tore the engine apart and found a stuck Lifter above Cylinder #4 where I was getting my misfire code from. Link to my other thread determining the stabilitrak issue.

I opted to do the full AFM dod delete and will send my ecm to Brendan http://www.lt1swap.com/afm_delete.htm to cancle out the AFM.

Today weather is spotty so I took a break from the Tahoe. All that is left to remove are the water pump, timing cover, crankshaft pulley, cam, etc.

I have the Heads at a local machine shop getting resurfaced, cleaned, new springs, and new valve seals expect to have at the end of the week. Will post pics when recieved.

I am currently putting together my parts list and I have the following. Anyone can confirm these parts for me would be greatly appreciated.

Head Gaskets #12498544
Head Bolts #17800568
Valley Cover Plate #12598832 QUESTION* Do I need the Valley plate with or without the PCV?
Lifters #12499225
Timing cover gasket set? or could I buy at local parts store.
Lifter guides #12595365
Cam thrust plate #12589016
Intake/Exhaust Manifold gaskets will buy from local parts store.
Cam Sprocket #12586481
3 Cam Bolts # 12556127
L33 Cam #12583623
Harmonic Balancer bolt?
New water pump local parts store
New oil pressure unit deal local parts store
New exhaust manifold bolts

any other parts I am missing?

If anyone has a decent AFM kit please share but as of now I will be buying parts separately.

This is my first cam install and I am researching as much I can. I will be having questions along the way so just bare with them thank you.

Question #1 Turning crank bolt to get TDC? Clockwise I assume. With old cam still in or with it removed? I would like to have the crank bolt lined up at 12 o'clock before installing new cam if that is possible. Any tutorial thread or vid on crank placement to make the alignment as smooth as possible. Tomorrow I will be removing the old cam.

Question #2 Lifter installation. When removing my lifters some stayed in the block and some came out with plastic tray. When installing new lifters will they be placed in the block and plastic trays over them? or vice versa. Also spring lifters and roller lifter placement?

Advice so far for anyone going to do this are PB Blaster, Zip ties for electrical, 18 inch break bar any longer its trouble to maneuver and a Milwaukee m12 3/8 ratchet tool it will save alot of trouble once you broke loose bolts.

I am ocd on knowing every correct aspect and will not move forward unless I know 100% what I am doing is right. I will be taking my time with this project and hope this thread can help anyone who may have the same issues or questions. Thank you.
View attachment 272441

I did this on a 6.2 in December and January, and my build thread is still visible here on the first page of posts in this forum. Hopefully it will be helpful to you. Same process.

On question #2, use new OEM lifter trays only. Do *not* use eBay specials or anything but OEM. When new, they will be snug enough to hold your lifters in place vertically, so will be sufficient to hold them while you insert the whole tray lifters and all, into their bores. There's no harm in installing the lifters first and then the trays, as long as they're lined up properly, but it's important that the trays be snug on the flat sides of the lifters because you don't want *any* rotation of those lifters when they're in motion. Did I mention... use *only* OEM trays?

Use ARP head bolts and camshaft sprocket bolts. They're the best because they're strong, reusable, and can be torqued properly without having to fuss with an angle gauge, etc. Just follow their directions to the letter.

On the valley plate, I don't believe you have any PCV there - only on the driver side valve cover. The boss at the rear of the valley cover is for the oil pressure sender.

Also, I went with a Brian Tooley Racing stage 2 truck cam and I'm thrilled with it. Nice lope, great low-end power.

 

[Taheezy_88]

Thanks guys for the great info. I ordered everything above and followed Iamdubs recommendations on alternative ARP bolts and gaskets.

Only things I have left to buy are Rods, Water Pump, oil pump.

Parts will be here delivered scattered throughout the next two weeks.

Today I picked up my heads and started cleaning up the block. Tomorrow I will start pulling the oil pump, timing cover, etc.. after this I'll just be waiting for the parts.

Update tomorrow. Thank you guys for the help.

 

[kbuskill]

Thanks guys for the great info. I ordered everything above and followed Iamdubs recommendations on alternative ARP bolts and gaskets.

Only things I have left to buy are Rods, Water Pump, oil pump.

Parts will be here delivered scattered throughout the next two weeks.

Today I picked up my heads and started cleaning up the block. Tomorrow I will start pulling the oil pump, timing cover, etc.. after this I'll just be waiting for the parts.

Update tomorrow. Thank you guys for the help.

View attachment 272632

Did you have the heads shaved/milled down to bump the compression???

 

[Taheezy_88]

Did you have the heads shaved/milled down to bump the compression???

No I didnt. Just resurfaced, cleaned the valves, and new springs. Old man I brought them to was a hard head and forgot to even ask him when I dropped them off.

Heads are still off. How much would a machine shop charge for that? I could call another shop

 

[kbuskill]

No I didnt. Just resurfaced, cleaned the valves, and new springs. Old man I brought them to was a hard head and forgot to even ask him when I dropped them off.

Heads are still off. How much would a machine shop charge for that? I could call another shop

Not sure how much around where you are.

I'm pretty sure the heads would have to be disassembled again in order to do it at this point. Wouldn't want to take a chance of hitting a valve in the milling process.

 

[swathdiver]

Check and see if yours already has the improved driver's side rocker cover. If not, get it. GM PN#: 12642655

The updated design greatly reduces oil consumption.

Are you replacing the VLOM with a blank valley cover? Either way, you'll want to make sure no oil leaks from the AFM towers anymore.

I would not go aftermarket with the oil or water pump unless you knew who the OE supplier is, such as Melling for the oil pump. Also, which oil pump? The latest design of the M355 is what I would use for the iron block LMG motor.

Google and download this file and read it a couple of times before you start: Rebuilding GMs Gen IV 5.3 Engine

 

[iamdub]

Check and see if yours already has the improved driver's side rocker cover. If not, get it. GM PN#: 12642655

The updated design greatly reduces oil consumption.

Are you replacing the VLOM with a blank valley cover? Either way, you'll want to make sure no oil leaks from the AFM towers anymore.

I would not go aftermarket with the oil or water pump unless you knew who the OE supplier is, such as Melling for the oil pump. Also, which oil pump? The latest design of the M355 is what I would use for the iron block LMG motor.

Google and download this file and read it a couple of times before you start: Rebuilding GMs Gen IV 5.3 Engine

^^^Troof.

@Marcos Jaime_MJ, the updated rocker cover and a catch can are highly recommended. Drain and clean the oil out of your intake manifold since you have it off and can rotate it as needed to drain. I sprayed mine out with a couple cans of brake parts cleaner.

I tapped and plugged my towers since I had my engine out. You can buy plugs to hammer into them, though. I'd do this since the engine is still in the bay. A few companies make steel or aluminum plugs for this or you can get a cheap wheel bearing (MasterPro #A37- $10 at O'Reilly), cut the cage and use the rollers as plugs.