6.2L Winter Refresh

[SpareParts]

I have two solid lifters for checking things out. Also, my pushrods are a little too long
I was tightening the rocker arm all the way down then slowly turning the engine over. When i got to what seemed like TDC that is where the valve would just barely touch the piston.


After watching a few videos, the part i missed was check them at 0 lash and not tightened down.
Checking this way my exhaust valve measures about .200 clearance and the intake measures about .150 clearance.

 

[SpareParts]

How come it's impacting the opposite side of valve relief in piston?

You'd think it would be angled the other way and smoosh the clay near the center?

The valve reliefs are cut for exhaust valves.

 

[SpareParts]

Both valves open at the same angle. I do not know why the valve reliefs are cut that way but that's how stock L92 pistons are.

 

[mikez71]

Good to know! I never paid attention, but thinking about it, the valves would be the same angle (looking at the rockers/pushrods)

 

[PatDTN]

Had a friend who built an S14 BMW with the pistons 180 out and started it without checking...

 

[Chris2144]

So you have .200 of clearance at 0 lash. That should be good.
Tightening past 0 lash would be hanging the valve open at tdc.
Also you said piston protrusion was within spec I believe and you’re heads were not cut?

 

[SpareParts]

Had a friend who built an S14 BMW with the pistons 180 out and started it without checking...

This is the first engine i have ever gone into this kinda detail. Glad i am as i don't want to do that!

 

[SpareParts]

So you have .200 of clearance at 0 lash. That should be good.
Tightening past 0 lash would be hanging the valve open at tdc.
Also you said piston protrusion was within spec I believe and you’re heads were not cut?

.200 exhaust, .150 intake at 0 lash. Heads were shaved .020 judging by cc volume.

 

[SpareParts]

Had to call summit about my head gaskets. The sealing ring sealing parts are a little messed up. Sent some pictures to them and about 20 minutes later a new set is on the way!

 

[Chris2144]

Good eye.
I imagine most would have not given that a second look and thrown it on.

 

[West 1]

What brand gasket was in your pictures? I have used Fel Pro head gaskets on the 5.3L and 6.2L engines with no issues so far. They all looked very good at install.

 

[j91z28d1]

I have two solid lifters for checking things out. Also, my pushrods are a little too long
I was tightening the rocker arm all the way down then slowly turning the engine over. When i got to what seemed like TDC that is where the valve would just barely touch the piston.


After watching a few videos, the part i missed was check them at 0 lash and not tightened down.
Checking this way my exhaust valve measures about .200 clearance and the intake measures about .150 clearance.

then other way I've done it is they sell checker springs, if you don't mind swapping a valve spring. these are lightweight springs so you can use the hydraulic lifter that your going to run.

 

[SpareParts]

What brand gasket was in your pictures? I have used Fel Pro head gaskets on the 5.3L and 6.2L engines with no issues so far. They all looked very good at install.

I wanted to use Felpro but the compressed thickness of the head gaskets are only .048.
To get my compression a little lower i am using Brian Tooley .055 compressed thickness head gaskets.

 

[SpareParts]

then other way I've done it is they sell checker springs, if you don't mind swapping a valve spring. these are lightweight springs so you can use the hydraulic lifter that your going to run.

Yes i have checker springs and i am using them.

 

[j91z28d1]

Yes i have checker springs and i am using them.

ahh I was thinking the solid lifter was because you were using the normal ones

 

[West 1]

Installing Hydraulic lifters in an engine and getting them pre loaded so You don't have to adjust at all after initial install is straight forward.
The problem is you get one shot at this. If you mess up you will be correcting the lifters with a running adjustment later. This is for adjustable rocker arms only.

You spin the engine till your #1 cylinder is on TDC, top dead center on the combustion stroke not the exhaust stroke. I like to start with Cylinder #1 and then follow the firing order around till all 8 are done.

If you start at #1 on a 4 cycle engine it takes 2 full revolutions to complete one cycle. So every 90* of rotation you will be adjusting one cylinder.

Have a sharpie on hand and mark each cylinder as you complete it. This way if a phone rings you can leave and come back knowing where you are.

So #1 on TDC compression stroke. You will be able to spin the loose push rods freely in the rocker arm. They may be super loose so you need to start tightening the rocker arm nut. Keep tightening as you spin the push rod with your fingers. Once the play is gone and the push rod stops spinning free you are ready to apply the Pre Load on the lifter. On New Lifters most would say to add 1/2 turn to 3/4 turn for pre load. Some say 1 full turn. All 3 should work fine but do all 16 adjustments the same. I usually go 3/4 turn.

Once you adjust the #1 intake and exhaust rocker arms turn the engine to next in the firing order and do the same adjustment before moving down the line and completing all 8 cylinders. Once this is done DO NOT adjust the rocker arms at all. They are adjusted and pre loaded. You are DONE. Any more adjusting just messes things up.

IF doing this same job with USED lifters on install do everything the same but for pre load only add 1/4 turn of pre load to the rocker arms.

This process is simple and fast but most importantly it works for setting Hydraulic Lifters.

 

[SpareParts]

Installing Hydraulic lifters in an engine and getting them pre loaded so You don't have to adjust at all after initial install is straight forward.
The problem is you get one shot at this. If you mess up you will be correcting the lifters with a running adjustment later. This is for adjustable rocker arms only.

You spin the engine till your #1 cylinder is on TDC, top dead center on the combustion stroke not the exhaust stroke. I like to start with Cylinder #1 and then follow the firing order around till all 8 are done.

If you start at #1 on a 4 cycle engine it takes 2 full revolutions to complete one cycle. So every 90* of rotation you will be adjusting one cylinder.

Have a sharpie on hand and mark each cylinder as you complete it. This way if a phone rings you can leave and come back knowing where you are.

So #1 on TDC compression stroke. You will be able to spin the loose push rods freely in the rocker arm. They may be super loose so you need to start tightening the rocker arm nut. Keep tightening as you spin the push rod with your fingers. Once the play is gone and the push rod stops spinning free you are ready to apply the Pre Load on the lifter. On New Lifters most would say to add 1/2 turn to 3/4 turn for pre load. Some say 1 full turn. All 3 should work fine but do all 16 adjustments the same. I usually go 3/4 turn.

Once you adjust the #1 intake and exhaust rocker arms turn the engine to next in the firing order and do the same adjustment before moving down the line and completing all 8 cylinders. Once this is done DO NOT adjust the rocker arms at all. They are adjusted and pre loaded. You are DONE. Any more adjusting just messes things up.

IF doing this same job with USED lifters on install do everything the same but for pre load only add 1/4 turn of pre load to the rocker arms.

This process is simple and fast but most importantly it works for setting Hydraulic Lifters.

It works for an adjustable valve train setup.
An LS is non adjustable.

For a BBC or SBC, my preferred way is to put the little anti splash clips on the rocker arms and do the running adjustment method.

 

[West 1]

Running is the most accurate and the only way to correct if you adjust wrong before starting the engine. I have done many LS engines, should have remembered they are all non adjusting set ups. Thanks

 

[donjetman]

Correct LS hyd lifter preload is set by pushrod length.
If pushrod length is correct from zero lash it will take 3/4 to 1 1/4 turn of the rocker arm bolt to reach 22 ft lbs.
If pushrod is too long it will take more than 1 1/4 turns.
If too short it will take less than 3/4 turn.

 

[SpareParts]

Mine turn 1 1/4
I want the preload near the center of the lifter travel not end so im getting shorter push rods. Just waiting for my new length checker to get here tomorrow.