6.2L Winter Refresh

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Also, i think with shorter push rods there is no way for the piston to hit the valves if something were to go wrong.
Right now with a solid lifter the intake valve will just touch the piston enough to mark the coating but not bend it.

Im wrong it can bend the valves.
 
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Replacement head gaskets arrived today and they are good to go.
Have the new lifters soaking in some Royal Purple break in oil overnight. Hope to get the heads on tomorrow and get the pushrods measured so i can get them ordered.

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West 1

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Lifters are shipped full of Stoddard Solvent. This thin solvent helps the lifter adjust on initial start up. By soaking in oil you are changing what the manufacturer thinks works the very best.
No Production Engine Rebulder soaks the lifters. They all depend on the factory installed Stoddard solvent. It works.
The Production Engine rebuilders ship out engines with warranty. If they could increase satisfaction of customers by soaking lifters they would all do that.

Production rebuilders build thousands of engines every month. They get lots of feedback from customers. I try to follow their lead on engine builds.

Soaked in oil lifters normally work just fine but they take longer on initial adjustment because oil is so much slower moving than the stoddard solvent.
 
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Lifters are shipped full of Stoddard Solvent. This thin solvent helps the lifter adjust on initial start up. By soaking in oil you are changing what the manufacturer thinks works the very best.
No Production Engine Rebulder soaks the lifters. They all depend on the factory installed Stoddard solvent. It works.
The Production Engine rebuilders ship out engines with warranty. If they could increase satisfaction of customers by soaking lifters they would all do that.

Production rebuilders build thousands of engines every month. They get lots of feedback from customers. I try to follow their lead on engine builds.

Soaked in oil lifters normally work just fine but they take longer on initial adjustment because oil is so much slower moving than the stoddard solvent.
To late. Already done. I have always soaked lifters though, never a problem, yet.
What ever they were packed with was not thin oil. Was at least 20W
 
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Could not torque the heads as i guess forgot to order ARP head bolts. So had to use stock bolts torqued to 25fp so i could get the pushrod length figured out.
Checked the 4 corner cylinders and all measured so close to the same im calling them the same @ 0 lash.
6.80+.4875=7.2875+ .060 preload= 7.3475
Looks like im going to order 7.350 push rods.
 

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When Torquing the factory TTY head bolts I found it worked to torque them all the the recommended 1st step torque first. Then take a sharpie and mark each bolt straight at the top. As you do the recommended final 2 steps you can visually see which bolts are turned and if they are in the correct angle. Sometimes you are in the middle of it and something happens to draw you away. This simple sharpie mark lets you leave and come back and know exactly which bolts are done and which need to be further torqued.
I have a degree wheel but find in several cases there is not room to use it and be accurate when the engine is in the car. On an engine stand you have much more room to work.

Your new engine is very close to done now, when do you plan the new engine install?
 

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I could see myself forgetting which bolt I'm on in the sequence... Great tip! I always worry I'll bump my degree wheel too..
Bought an electronic torque wrench that has angles, but haven't used that part of it yet..
 

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I think you may have got a flawed casting. Mine didn't look anything like that, just a few edges that I cleaned up with a die grinder. It doesn't take much... A cheap harbor freight electric one would do the trick pretty quick. Just for a piece of mind at least.
 
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Also got the heads put on this morning. Pretty uneventful but i will say the ARB lube is about as bad as anti seize for getting everyplace.

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