What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[alpha_omega]

you're probably right.

didn't think of that. what a bad techs these days. ugh.

This can also happen if they don’t remove all of the nylon from the grooves. Those shaft ears are tweaked for sure. There’s no damn way it will be right again.

I wish buddy
bad news is a new oem one is no longer available
good news is a dorman one can be overnighted if necessary

Clutch & Driveline Rebuilder, Supplier, Remanufacturer - Fort Wayne Clutch & Driveline

Specializing in clutch & driveline for all makes & models of auto, truck, tractor, agricultural, antique, high performance, industrial, obsolete! OEM, performance and HD custom driveshaft assemblies. Dana Spicer, Elbe, GWB, GKN industrial driveshafts and components. Rockford, Twin Disc over...

fortwayneclutch.com

These guys have them in stock and considering your style of driving, then you know you’re getting something that will last longer than the Dorman. They can overnight as well.

 

[alpha_omega]

Basically just look at those areas on your radiator support that has holes that push fittings can snap into. I keep this kit on hand, it handles most of the fittings on the truck.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L6FJGR4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I opened that link and Amazon told me I purchased the very same one back in 2018.

 

[Doubeleive]

This can also happen if they don’t remove all of the nylon from the grooves. Those shaft ears are tweaked for sure. There’s no damn way it will be right again.

Clutch & Driveline Rebuilder, Supplier, Remanufacturer - Fort Wayne Clutch & Driveline

Specializing in clutch & driveline for all makes & models of auto, truck, tractor, agricultural, antique, high performance, industrial, obsolete! OEM, performance and HD custom driveshaft assemblies. Dana Spicer, Elbe, GWB, GKN industrial driveshafts and components. Rockford, Twin Disc over...

fortwayneclutch.com

These guys have them in stock and considering your style of driving, then you know you’re getting something that will last longer than the Dorman. They can overnight as well.

that place in Texas doesn't show one for the yukon, well it does but only a 53" (up to 2009) then it skips to 2015, mine is 61.5"
the local place said they can build me one for about $450 (race ready) steel, aluminum or carbon fiber

 

[alpha_omega]

Those are really nice. How many miles can you go between fuel stops?

If I pushed it to the limit and had perfect driving conditions theoretically I could get close to 800. When you add reality to the mix, needing to stop for breaks to empty the bladder, walk the dogs, stretch out, wake up - along with $hitty stop and go traffic, heavy wind…etc it’s more like 650-700. That way we are stopping at a good truck stop making fill ups quicker, we can add DEF fluid to the tank if need be and maneuver the rig to get back on the road much easier than some random gas station.

 

[Doubeleive]

I took it back to the dealer early this morning and had them lube the slip yoke after going in&out a few times it needed to be done again, no charge the main manager is back from vacation, I guess they are dealing with whoever the tech was that did the u joints if I had not felt a vibration and never looked at it, it could have been catastrophic down the road.
I will probably get another drive line at some point it's not 100% like it was but it will work for now

 

[alpha_omega]

that place in Texas doesn't show one for the yukon, well it does but only a 53" (up to 2009) then it skips to 2015, mine is 61.5"
the local place said they can build me one for about $450 (race ready) steel, aluminum or carbon fiber

Yours is a one piece unit? What’s the OEM p/n?

 

[Doubeleive]

Yours is a one piece unit? What’s the OEM p/n?

yes one piece, the oem one is out of production
crossover p/n's
More Information for DORMAN 946004

10383383, 20871263, 20912703, 22845688, 22847377

 

[m1dn]

So last weekend i was changing oil with my wife's 18y brother who has never touched a wrench before.
Was briefly showing what's where under the car and while doing so noticed one of the bolts on sway bar bushing was busted and the bushing was held on a single bolt.
( No wonder the handling felt wierd and bumps sent my wheel kind flying around, eh? )

When i took the bushing out, found out the area between bolt holes on where that bushing attaches has rotted out - https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/sway-bar-attachment-rotting-out.142499/
And removing the rusted bolt turned out to be quite an adventure!

Took me almost all day to remove that bolt, tried welding until it snapped, then went to drilling and tapping aaaand repeat.
The bolt was reeeeeally rusted in, even when 1nanometer of the bold was left, it was still stuck inside the threads :\

Will be ordering a proper replacement piece when it snaps off thanks to member linking a right part in the thread above.
Meanwhile cleaned the area and welded a piece of sheet metal and painted with rust-stop paint.
And installed new bushings.

Turns out the car hundles much much better with in-tact sway bar bushing and doesn't throw the wheel around in potholes!
Attaching some pics of before/after

Edit:
New tools - HF Welder, tap set, carbo drill bits
Price - Priceless, would do it again!

 

[j91z28d1]

anyone know where to get gm documents? a tsb references a procedure outlined in GM document number(long number) but I can't find it anywhere in the software I have access to, or Google.

if it's in a gm service manual, this is for someone else, but guess I'm going to wanna buy one. kinda annoying.

 

[89Suburban]

So last weekend i was changing oil with my wife's 18y brother who has never touched a wrench before.
Was briefly showing what's where under the car and while doing so noticed one of the bolts on sway bar bushing was busted and the bushing was held on a single bolt.
( No wonder the handling felt wierd and bumps sent my wheel kind flying around, eh? )

When i took the bushing out, found out the area between bolt holes on where that bushing attaches has rotted out - https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/sway-bar-attachment-rotting-out.142499/
And removing the rusted bolt turned out to be quite an adventure!

Took me almost all day to remove that bolt, tried welding until it snapped, then went to drilling and tapping aaaand repeat.
The bolt was reeeeeally rusted in, even when 1nanometer of the bold was left, it was still stuck inside the threads :\

Will be ordering a proper replacement piece when it snaps off thanks to member linking a right part in the thread above.
Meanwhile cleaned the area and welded a piece of sheet metal and painted with rust-stop paint.
And installed new bushings.

Turns out the car hundles much much better with in-tact sway bar bushing and doesn't throw the wheel around in potholes!
Attaching some pics of before/after

Edit:
New tools - HF Welder, tap set, carbo drill bits
Price - Priceless, would do it again!

I just went through that sht on mine a few months ago. I tried to drill out the broken bolt and it went off center. So I drilled the hole big enough to slide a new bolt through and lock nut on the top. PITA.

 

[Doubeleive]

anyone know where to get gm documents? a tsb references a procedure outlined in GM document number(long number) but I can't find it anywhere in the software I have access to, or Google.

if it's in a gm service manual, this is for someone else, but guess I'm going to wanna buy one. kinda annoying.

Dealer service writer or parts guy can print it out maybe @915_Tahoe can email it?

 

[j91z28d1]

ahh. system on lock down.

a guy with a hybrid escalade norrowed a weird no start down to a shop that swapped an engine for him used pag oil in the ac system. pag gets conductive over time and it failed its prestart isolation tests and wouldn't start. took him about a year to sort it out.

there's a tsb about it, it's aimed at techs adding dye which is mixed with pag oil and how to flush the system of the conductive oil but it the actual procedure is in a reference document not the tsb.

 

[m1dn]

I just went through that sht on mine a few months ago. I tried to drill out the broken bolt and it went off center. So I drilled the hole big enough to slide a new bolt through and lock nut on the top. PITA.

I got lucky, the tap removed last few pieces haha

I tried welding a nut like 10 times at first, it was stuck there for dear life

 

[iamdub]

ya I didn't think about that I have a set of them in another tool box, I should be fine until next time I get under it or I usually do a vehicle check while I am traveling anyway when I get up the coast I will check them to make sure nothing has worked it's way loose but I tend to over tighten so they are probably over 18lbs

I give mine .6 grunts. Been at or very near 150 on original 220K mile shaft and joints. No probs.

 

[Doubeleive]

I give mine .6 grunts. Been at or very near 150 on original 220K mile shaft and joints. No probs.

Check point 1 no tickets

 

[89Suburban]

Back into reduced power, P2135, stability. Dropped it at the shop. I'm done.

 

[gooffeyguy]

I give mine .6 grunts. Been at or very near 150 on original 220K mile shaft and joints. No probs.

But do you regularly drive at 100+ mph?

 

[j91z28d1]

need motivation to work on it...

 

[mikez71]

Back into reduced power, P2135, stability. Dropped it at the shop. I'm done.

This video mentions a TSB for the ECM program update for 08-11..?

 

[justchecking]

Replaced coolant cap. Went to top off coolant after air worked out of the system after the heater hoses and connector replacement and the top of the old cap separated from the bottom. I think the o ring was hard. I was able to twist and pry it out with curved needle nose pliers.