Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
The OEM clutch, it's one sided.
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Weekend before last, I was putting the windows up and the right rear one made a cracking sound. It was up so I was gonna leave it and I should've unplugged the switch. A week goes by and I had forgotten about it. So, last weekend, I went to lower the windows a few inches for the drive home and the right rear window just slammed to full open. I'm lucky it didn't break. I park in a garage so it wasn't so urgent.
Just under four years ago, my driver's door regulator messed up and it was just a frayed cable. I made up a new one and it's been perfect ever since. I had an early day Friday so I tore into it to assess. This time, I wasn't as lucky. The cable was fine but the whole plastic trolley assembly was cracked in multiple places (obviously from age) and it broke where the cable attached. No saving this one!
I'm holding the upper cable end where it would be locked in place like the lower one but the pieces are missing:
New OEM regulators are $100+ and I wanted to avoid aftermarket so I went straight to Marketplace to look for an SUV being parted out since I need a few other miscellaneous parts. I found a few but was targeting a 2013 since it was the newest. Then, I saw an ad for two new OEM regulators a guy had bought for his '08 Tahoe, but was T-bõned soon after so they were never installed. He wanted $40 and was on my side of the river. I messaged him Friday night and didn't get a response. I had to get groceries last night so I removed the motor drive and cables, put a 3/8" bolt in the track and reinstalled the regulator to hold the window up tightly in the seals:
BTW, if you remove the inside sweep and tilt the window this way, you can remove and install it without removing the rest of the seals:
I was starting to think the guy with those regulators was yet another Marketplace seller who sold their stuff and just never deleted the ad. But then he replied this morning and we made plans to meet in town. I was skeptical that they were actual OEM parts until I saw them:
They're legit! As I pulled four $20 bills out of my wallet and handed them to him, I asked "It was $40 each, right?" He said "$40 for both" and started to give me two of the bills back. I told him they're a deal to me at $40 each and to treat his girlfriend with the cash (she was in his truck with the window down and saw and heard everything)
Just under four years ago, my driver's door regulator messed up and it was just a frayed cable. I made up a new one and it's been perfect ever since. I had an early day Friday so I tore into it to assess. This time, I wasn't as lucky. The cable was fine but the whole plastic trolley assembly was cracked in multiple places (obviously from age) and it broke where the cable attached. No saving this one!
I'm holding the upper cable end where it would be locked in place like the lower one but the pieces are missing:
New OEM regulators are $100+ and I wanted to avoid aftermarket so I went straight to Marketplace to look for an SUV being parted out since I need a few other miscellaneous parts. I found a few but was targeting a 2013 since it was the newest. Then, I saw an ad for two new OEM regulators a guy had bought for his '08 Tahoe, but was T-bõned soon after so they were never installed. He wanted $40 and was on my side of the river. I messaged him Friday night and didn't get a response. I had to get groceries last night so I removed the motor drive and cables, put a 3/8" bolt in the track and reinstalled the regulator to hold the window up tightly in the seals:
BTW, if you remove the inside sweep and tilt the window this way, you can remove and install it without removing the rest of the seals:
I was starting to think the guy with those regulators was yet another Marketplace seller who sold their stuff and just never deleted the ad. But then he replied this morning and we made plans to meet in town. I was skeptical that they were actual OEM parts until I saw them:
They're legit! As I pulled four $20 bills out of my wallet and handed them to him, I asked "It was $40 each, right?" He said "$40 for both" and started to give me two of the bills back. I told him they're a deal to me at $40 each and to treat his girlfriend with the cash (she was in his truck with the window down and saw and heard everything)
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Nothing outside today, it's raining. Organizing tools and parts in the garage.
CaptainAmerica1
Full Access Member
Chasing an AC leak today. Schrader valve in the accumulator was backed out a bunch, screwed it back and crossing my fingers… uv dye doesn’t show anywhere else it could be going so
RooTBeeRthe1st
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2018
- Posts
- 1,024
- Reaction score
- 2,354
gooffeyguy
Tom
Filled the tank with 25 gallons of E85 @ $2.98/gal
Sparksalot
Supporting Member
I did that last week for thethirdtwin. Got about 5mpg as expected, but hey the injectors are clean now.
gooffeyguy
Tom
5mpg? I see at least double that and I'm AWD with a bigger engine
Just had s3x with yukon for 2 days, we tried allll different poses and my hand/fingers tried going into extremely tight places.
Developed an exhaust leak and smell.
All bolts on manifold were intact, but soapy water test indicated leak at driver side last bolt.
Got myself bolt extractors, new gaskets and 3 different clamps just incase.
Started taking off bolts, sprayed overnight.
As soon as i touch that last bolt it breaks apart.
Take out others, 4 come out good 1 breaks.
Couldnt take manifold off of ypipe, it’s stuck dead there, none of the bolts moved
Didn’t go torch way as it was waaaay to hard to reach there to take them out, bolts come from underneath.
So i used big iron handle to move manifold a little and fit in extractor, front bolt came out easy, last bolt in the back I couldn’t bend manifold enough to fit extractor and have room for taking bolt out
I’m thinking no problem right, i got the bracket/clamp!
I reach out to that super tight back area and there’s something screwed into top hole.
A piece of some material attached other side to the car body, and ofc the bolt in the back was attached with most amount of torque they could produce.
Took me maybe few hours to come up with monster link to get in there and break it loose, while smashing the ratchet into my face.
Now comes installing part, the back side is so tight fit you can barely put 2 fingers in there from top or from bottom/side through wheel well.
There was no way to install that bottom bolt, i even removed firewall, but my hands are big and I couldn’t get in there, would probably need some crazy long offset ratchet.
Frustrated i decided to keep it on one bolt, at least something pushin down the manifold.
Installed everything back, no leaks so far, runs smooth.
Will see if it develops a leak again, if it does I’ll find some super long offset wrench or take it to shop to get manifold off and remove broken bolt.
Also noticed a lot of rust under flare, luckily I’m close to Detroit so tons of spare parts, will probably swap both sides and bumper over winter.
Have a great Canadian Thanksgiving everyone!
Developed an exhaust leak and smell.
All bolts on manifold were intact, but soapy water test indicated leak at driver side last bolt.
Got myself bolt extractors, new gaskets and 3 different clamps just incase.
Started taking off bolts, sprayed overnight.
As soon as i touch that last bolt it breaks apart.
Take out others, 4 come out good 1 breaks.
Couldnt take manifold off of ypipe, it’s stuck dead there, none of the bolts moved
Didn’t go torch way as it was waaaay to hard to reach there to take them out, bolts come from underneath.
So i used big iron handle to move manifold a little and fit in extractor, front bolt came out easy, last bolt in the back I couldn’t bend manifold enough to fit extractor and have room for taking bolt out
I’m thinking no problem right, i got the bracket/clamp!
I reach out to that super tight back area and there’s something screwed into top hole.
A piece of some material attached other side to the car body, and ofc the bolt in the back was attached with most amount of torque they could produce.
Took me maybe few hours to come up with monster link to get in there and break it loose, while smashing the ratchet into my face.
Now comes installing part, the back side is so tight fit you can barely put 2 fingers in there from top or from bottom/side through wheel well.
There was no way to install that bottom bolt, i even removed firewall, but my hands are big and I couldn’t get in there, would probably need some crazy long offset ratchet.
Frustrated i decided to keep it on one bolt, at least something pushin down the manifold.
Installed everything back, no leaks so far, runs smooth.
Will see if it develops a leak again, if it does I’ll find some super long offset wrench or take it to shop to get manifold off and remove broken bolt.
Also noticed a lot of rust under flare, luckily I’m close to Detroit so tons of spare parts, will probably swap both sides and bumper over winter.
Have a great Canadian Thanksgiving everyone!
Sparksalot
Supporting Member
It might have been 8. Corn always sux for mpg, so I don’t even care. Since the price is almost identical to regular, I’ll run that unless I have another reason for corn.5mpg? I see at least double that and I'm AWD with a bigger engine
Similar threads
