Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
The OEM clutch, it's one sided.
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Weekend before last, I was putting the windows up and the right rear one made a cracking sound. It was up so I was gonna leave it and I should've unplugged the switch. A week goes by and I had forgotten about it. So, last weekend, I went to lower the windows a few inches for the drive home and the right rear window just slammed to full open. I'm lucky it didn't break. I park in a garage so it wasn't so urgent.
Just under four years ago, my driver's door regulator messed up and it was just a frayed cable. I made up a new one and it's been perfect ever since. I had an early day Friday so I tore into it to assess. This time, I wasn't as lucky. The cable was fine but the whole plastic trolley assembly was cracked in multiple places (obviously from age) and it broke where the cable attached. No saving this one!
I'm holding the upper cable end where it would be locked in place like the lower one but the pieces are missing:
New OEM regulators are $100+ and I wanted to avoid aftermarket so I went straight to Marketplace to look for an SUV being parted out since I need a few other miscellaneous parts. I found a few but was targeting a 2013 since it was the newest. Then, I saw an ad for two new OEM regulators a guy had bought for his '08 Tahoe, but was T-bõned soon after so they were never installed. He wanted $40 and was on my side of the river. I messaged him Friday night and didn't get a response. I had to get groceries last night so I removed the motor drive and cables, put a 3/8" bolt in the track and reinstalled the regulator to hold the window up tightly in the seals:
BTW, if you remove the inside sweep and tilt the window this way, you can remove and install it without removing the rest of the seals:
I was starting to think the guy with those regulators was yet another Marketplace seller who sold their stuff and just never deleted the ad. But then he replied this morning and we made plans to meet in town. I was skeptical that they were actual OEM parts until I saw them:
They're legit! As I pulled four $20 bills out of my wallet and handed them to him, I asked "It was $40 each, right?" He said "$40 for both" and started to give me two of the bills back. I told him they're a deal to me at $40 each and to treat his girlfriend with the cash (she was in his truck with the window down and saw and heard everything)
Just under four years ago, my driver's door regulator messed up and it was just a frayed cable. I made up a new one and it's been perfect ever since. I had an early day Friday so I tore into it to assess. This time, I wasn't as lucky. The cable was fine but the whole plastic trolley assembly was cracked in multiple places (obviously from age) and it broke where the cable attached. No saving this one!
I'm holding the upper cable end where it would be locked in place like the lower one but the pieces are missing:
New OEM regulators are $100+ and I wanted to avoid aftermarket so I went straight to Marketplace to look for an SUV being parted out since I need a few other miscellaneous parts. I found a few but was targeting a 2013 since it was the newest. Then, I saw an ad for two new OEM regulators a guy had bought for his '08 Tahoe, but was T-bõned soon after so they were never installed. He wanted $40 and was on my side of the river. I messaged him Friday night and didn't get a response. I had to get groceries last night so I removed the motor drive and cables, put a 3/8" bolt in the track and reinstalled the regulator to hold the window up tightly in the seals:
BTW, if you remove the inside sweep and tilt the window this way, you can remove and install it without removing the rest of the seals:
I was starting to think the guy with those regulators was yet another Marketplace seller who sold their stuff and just never deleted the ad. But then he replied this morning and we made plans to meet in town. I was skeptical that they were actual OEM parts until I saw them:
They're legit! As I pulled four $20 bills out of my wallet and handed them to him, I asked "It was $40 each, right?" He said "$40 for both" and started to give me two of the bills back. I told him they're a deal to me at $40 each and to treat his girlfriend with the cash (she was in his truck with the window down and saw and heard everything)
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Nothing outside today, it's raining. Organizing tools and parts in the garage.
CaptainAmerica1
Full Access Member
Chasing an AC leak today. Schrader valve in the accumulator was backed out a bunch, screwed it back and crossing my fingers… uv dye doesn’t show anywhere else it could be going so
RooTBeeRthe1st
Full Access Member
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gooffeyguy
Tom
Filled the tank with 25 gallons of E85 @ $2.98/gal
Sparksalot
Elite Member
I did that last week for thethirdtwin. Got about 5mpg as expected, but hey the injectors are clean now.
gooffeyguy
Tom
5mpg? I see at least double that and I'm AWD with a bigger engine
Just had s3x with yukon for 2 days, we tried allll different poses and my hand/fingers tried going into extremely tight places.
Developed an exhaust leak and smell.
All bolts on manifold were intact, but soapy water test indicated leak at driver side last bolt.
Got myself bolt extractors, new gaskets and 3 different clamps just incase.
Started taking off bolts, sprayed overnight.
As soon as i touch that last bolt it breaks apart.
Take out others, 4 come out good 1 breaks.
Couldnt take manifold off of ypipe, it’s stuck dead there, none of the bolts moved
Didn’t go torch way as it was waaaay to hard to reach there to take them out, bolts come from underneath.
So i used big iron handle to move manifold a little and fit in extractor, front bolt came out easy, last bolt in the back I couldn’t bend manifold enough to fit extractor and have room for taking bolt out
I’m thinking no problem right, i got the bracket/clamp!
I reach out to that super tight back area and there’s something screwed into top hole.
A piece of some material attached other side to the car body, and ofc the bolt in the back was attached with most amount of torque they could produce.
Took me maybe few hours to come up with monster link to get in there and break it loose, while smashing the ratchet into my face.
Now comes installing part, the back side is so tight fit you can barely put 2 fingers in there from top or from bottom/side through wheel well.
There was no way to install that bottom bolt, i even removed firewall, but my hands are big and I couldn’t get in there, would probably need some crazy long offset ratchet.
Frustrated i decided to keep it on one bolt, at least something pushin down the manifold.
Installed everything back, no leaks so far, runs smooth.
Will see if it develops a leak again, if it does I’ll find some super long offset wrench or take it to shop to get manifold off and remove broken bolt.
Also noticed a lot of rust under flare, luckily I’m close to Detroit so tons of spare parts, will probably swap both sides and bumper over winter.
Have a great Canadian Thanksgiving everyone!
Developed an exhaust leak and smell.
All bolts on manifold were intact, but soapy water test indicated leak at driver side last bolt.
Got myself bolt extractors, new gaskets and 3 different clamps just incase.
Started taking off bolts, sprayed overnight.
As soon as i touch that last bolt it breaks apart.
Take out others, 4 come out good 1 breaks.
Couldnt take manifold off of ypipe, it’s stuck dead there, none of the bolts moved
Didn’t go torch way as it was waaaay to hard to reach there to take them out, bolts come from underneath.
So i used big iron handle to move manifold a little and fit in extractor, front bolt came out easy, last bolt in the back I couldn’t bend manifold enough to fit extractor and have room for taking bolt out
I’m thinking no problem right, i got the bracket/clamp!
I reach out to that super tight back area and there’s something screwed into top hole.
A piece of some material attached other side to the car body, and ofc the bolt in the back was attached with most amount of torque they could produce.
Took me maybe few hours to come up with monster link to get in there and break it loose, while smashing the ratchet into my face.
Now comes installing part, the back side is so tight fit you can barely put 2 fingers in there from top or from bottom/side through wheel well.
There was no way to install that bottom bolt, i even removed firewall, but my hands are big and I couldn’t get in there, would probably need some crazy long offset ratchet.
Frustrated i decided to keep it on one bolt, at least something pushin down the manifold.
Installed everything back, no leaks so far, runs smooth.
Will see if it develops a leak again, if it does I’ll find some super long offset wrench or take it to shop to get manifold off and remove broken bolt.
Also noticed a lot of rust under flare, luckily I’m close to Detroit so tons of spare parts, will probably swap both sides and bumper over winter.
Have a great Canadian Thanksgiving everyone!
Sparksalot
Elite Member
It might have been 8. Corn always sux for mpg, so I don’t even care. Since the price is almost identical to regular, I’ll run that unless I have another reason for corn.5mpg? I see at least double that and I'm AWD with a bigger engine
Just had s3x with yukon for 2 days, we tried allll different poses and my hand/fingers tried going into extremely tight places.
Developed an exhaust leak and smell.
All bolts on manifold were intact, but soapy water test indicated leak at driver side last bolt.
Got myself bolt extractors, new gaskets and 3 different clamps just incase.
Started taking off bolts, sprayed overnight.
As soon as i touch that last bolt it breaks apart.
Take out others, 4 come out good 1 breaks.
Couldnt take manifold off of ypipe, it’s stuck dead there, none of the bolts moved
Didn’t go torch way as it was waaaay to hard to reach there to take them out, bolts come from underneath.
So i used big iron handle to move manifold a little and fit in extractor, front bolt came out easy, last bolt in the back I couldn’t bend manifold enough to fit extractor and have room for taking bolt out
I’m thinking no problem right, i got the bracket/clamp!
I reach out to that super tight back area and there’s something screwed into top hole.
A piece of some material attached other side to the car body, and ofc the bolt in the back was attached with most amount of torque they could produce.
Took me maybe few hours to come up with monster link to get in there and break it loose, while smashing the ratchet into my face.
Now comes installing part, the back side is so tight fit you can barely put 2 fingers in there from top or from bottom/side through wheel well.
There was no way to install that bottom bolt, i even removed firewall, but my hands are big and I couldn’t get in there, would probably need some crazy long offset ratchet.
Frustrated i decided to keep it on one bolt, at least something pushin down the manifold.
Installed everything back, no leaks so far, runs smooth.
Will see if it develops a leak again, if it does I’ll find some super long offset wrench or take it to shop to get manifold off and remove broken bolt.
Also noticed a lot of rust under flare, luckily I’m close to Detroit so tons of spare parts, will probably swap both sides and bumper over winter.
Have a great Canadian Thanksgiving everyone!
Great post, I feel your pain. Good job.
gooffeyguy
Tom
I gotta run higher octane so I gotta compare the price to premium
Charlie207
Full Access Member
Front driver's brake caliper froze the other day. Lots of smoke and heat... Praise Zeus for towing reimbursement.
Replaced caliper and bled brake. This is the schmutz that came out. I had no way to drain the reservoir the other day, but plenty of fluid, so I kept adding it until the tank and output were clear.
Got a power bleeder in the mail today, and redid the front.
More to follow.....
Replaced caliper and bled brake. This is the schmutz that came out. I had no way to drain the reservoir the other day, but plenty of fluid, so I kept adding it until the tank and output were clear.
Got a power bleeder in the mail today, and redid the front.
More to follow.....
Attachments
that fluid looks good, mine turns black in 12 months without fail so it gets flushed annually.
Charlie207
Full Access Member
Here's the rest...
The Motive pressure bleeder made it waaaay easier than having my GF pump the brake pedal.
I probably didn't need to jack up and remove all fours wheels to bleed, but at least it was some exercise.
avalonandl
Full Access Member
avalonandl
Full Access Member
Ouch
Fixed my back-up camera last night. Been intermittently working and finally stopped all together. I checked the wiring when it first started and all looked snug and tight in the rear light assembly (trigger wire) using a crimp connection...Well, that was the culprit so I pulled that out and spliced the wire in the harness and added shrink wrap to the connection. Camera is back working again but not before I was sure it was the HU and did a factory reset! DOH!!!! 
iamdub
Full Access Member
After replacing that window regulator Sunday afternoon, I hitched up my trailer to go grab some landscaping rocks (maybe 200-300 lbs altogether, at most) that my Tahoe Twin buddy was giving to me. Came home, unhitched the trailer and parked in the garage- all was well. Showered and headed back out to go visit my stepdad in the hospital. Never exceeded 4,000 RPM since leaving the house and had the cruise set at 70 once I reached the highway. About five miles later, I felt what seemed like a loose wheel or U-joint vibrating. It went away when I lightly accelerated or shifted to neutral. Accelerating felt strange so I turned the radio down and heard clacking. Gauges showed all vitals were normal. There's no lights or any safe place to pull over, so I eased it to a well-lit gas station and shut it down. Oil on the dipstick looked good and saw nothing external. Clacking sounded like a lifter but also deeper and like there was more than one thing clicking/knocking.
Jenn was nearby so she picked me up and brought me to Walmart to get a tow strap. Garrett (the "Tahoe Twin") brought a floor jack and jack stands. I jacked up the rear, unbolted the driveshaft and roped it to the muffler:
Yes, those appear to be original U-joints. 14 years and 218K miles WITH me beating on 'em for the past 72K... I don't know what's going on, but I can't detect any slack in them.
Garrett dragging the Steel Hippo's carcass:
We got it home and pushed it into the garage. I took straight to Marketplace to start saving ads for NNBS vehicles being parted out to look for a replacement engine just in case. I gotta have this thing road trip ready for 11/9.
Jenn was nearby so she picked me up and brought me to Walmart to get a tow strap. Garrett (the "Tahoe Twin") brought a floor jack and jack stands. I jacked up the rear, unbolted the driveshaft and roped it to the muffler:
Yes, those appear to be original U-joints. 14 years and 218K miles WITH me beating on 'em for the past 72K... I don't know what's going on, but I can't detect any slack in them.
Garrett dragging the Steel Hippo's carcass:
We got it home and pushed it into the garage. I took straight to Marketplace to start saving ads for NNBS vehicles being parted out to look for a replacement engine just in case. I gotta have this thing road trip ready for 11/9.
