What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[alpha_omega]

The 6.2 is externally the same dimensions as the 5.3 and 4.8. They're all the same, even up to the 7.0. A 6.2 could use larger primaries than what would normally be used on engines of a smaller displacement. But, that's typically 1 7/8" versus 1 3/4". That's only 1/8" difference in diameter meaning a mere 1/16" closer to whatever might be near that primary tube. They pretty much all feed into a 3" collector. Many use 1 7/8" on their 5.3s. You're gonna need a better excuse to not get them catted Kooks or ARHs you've been eyeing!

Thank you for that one. I didn’t know the 4.8 and 7.0 fell into the same category as the 5.3, and 6.2. Is that just for the Gen IV L94?
I thought there were different “setups” (AWD, 4WD) and depending on the year (aluminum block vs “cinderblock”) that made a difference in the amount of space available “under the hood”. Not specifically engine size, but the configuration of engine and drivetrain that cuts down the “wiggle room”.
Is it the 4WD vs AWD that reduced the amount of room for headers? I thought there was an issue with my 6.2, whereas the long tubes either wouldn’t fit or wouldn’t fit without coating/wrapping them, the coils, and any wiring (plus or minus the trans/oil coolant lines).

I remember reading something about it back when I was looking at headers, the setup I have either “needed” or worked best with shortys (requiring the least amount of additional mods).

 

[Doubeleive]

Thank you for that one. I had no idea the 6.2 and 7.0 used the same “platform”. I know it’s an “LS engine”, but I thought they had different setups based off the configuration (2WD, AWD, 4WD) and the year (aluminum block vs “cinderblock”).
Is it the 4WD vs AWD that reduced the amount of room for headers? I thought there was an issue with my 6.2, whereas the long tubes either wouldn’t fit or wouldn’t fit without coating/wrapping them, the coils, and any wiring (plus or minus the trans/oil coolant lines).

I remember reading something about it back when I was looking at headers, the setup I have either “needed” or worked best with shortys (requiring the least amount of additional mods).

there is no difference in room (space) between a 4wd and AWD, the only difference is the type of gear inside the front diff housing, at least I don't think there is I could be wrong, if there is a difference it can't be much

 

[alpha_omega]

Anyone ever get a steering wheel angle sensor code, C0710-5A, when changing tie rods? Got the code while changing out the tie rods on the Sierra. Well, it came on during the test drive. As my daughter was pulling out of the driveway for a test drive, we heard a rhythmic rubbing sound which turned out to be the rotor rubbing the pads unevenly. The light came on after going around the block twice.

Today it was learned that she did not tighten the tire properly, it was askew and we fixed that. The previous owner removed the screw that keeps the rotor tight against the hub. The new screw could not get through the rust and I could not find my metric tap and die set to clean up the threads. We left it off. After triple checking the tire, it on properly and securely now.

With the lift, we had to cut down the inner and outer tie rods 1/2 inch each. It was still too long, so we used the belt sander to cut them down the rest of the way until they matched the old ones. Ran out of light, driver's side is done.

Truck also has a current and often historical code for the throttle position sensor, P0121-00. Not sure what might have caused that. Drive's fine though.

I’m sure you probably have, but I’ll ask anyways - have you cleared the codes and done a relearn for the TPS? Mine took a couple try’s. It came back on after changing the TB and gasket, so I thought I may have either over or under torqued the bolts. Pulled it off, put a new gasket on, did the relearn and it’s been fine ever since.

These vehicles are known for the TPS to burn out. One small connection. There’s a good YouTube video where a guy dissects one to show where the bad contact point is.

 

[alpha_omega]

there is no difference in room (space) between a 4wd and AWD, the only difference is the type of gear inside the front diff housing

Right. I’m not talking engine size (cubic feet) I’m talking available space for making those kinds of changes.

Edit: stay humble - removed dumbass comment

 

[Doubeleive]

Right. I’m not talking engine size (cubic feet) I’m talking available space for making those kinds of changes. Kinda like the difference in changing out motor mounts in a 4WD vs AWD. Anyone who has ever done 4WD will find changing AWD a breeze.

how so? the only difference is one has a actuator screwed on and one does not, unscrew the actuator and they are the exact same size

 

[alpha_omega]

Standing fully corrected on that dumbass statement. Thank you for that fact check.
The mounts on my 02’ were a SOB, but my 11’ was a breeze. Chalk it up to my angle of attack on the second go around - having the starter, exhaust manifold, tires and inner fender liners all removed?
Regardless, the toughest bolts to torque down on both vehicles were the passenger side from underneath.

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

View attachment 358553

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

This little bugger right here was sucking air. I guess the cap rotted off? Got a new rubber cap and the ltft went from 29% down to .8… fml

 

[Rocket Man]

Thank you for that one. I didn’t know the 4.8 and 7.0 fell into the same category as the 5.3, and 6.2. Is that just for the Gen IV L94?
I thought there were different “setups” (AWD, 4WD) and depending on the year (aluminum block vs “cinderblock”) that made a difference in the amount of space available “under the hood”. Not specifically engine size, but the configuration of engine and drivetrain that cuts down the “wiggle room”.
Is it the 4WD vs AWD that reduced the amount of room for headers? I thought there was an issue with my 6.2, whereas the long tubes either wouldn’t fit or wouldn’t fit without coating/wrapping them, the coils, and any wiring (plus or minus the trans/oil coolant lines).

I remember reading something about it back when I was looking at headers, the setup I have either “needed” or worked best with shortys (requiring the least amount of additional mods).

The only difference as far as room for headers is the front diff is there in the 4wd/AWD vs a 2WD. The more expensive manufacturers like American Racing Headers or Kooks build header/ y-pipe packages that fit the 4wd/AWD configurations. The cheaper headers are one-size-fits-all and it’s up to you to make them fit. I have ARH on my blown 6.0 ‘02 AWD Denali and they fit perfectly. There’s not much room, they are made to fit around everything.

 

[Rocket Man]

View attachment 358553

Cheap fixes are the best.