What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Monz11]

Gotcha. Having a 6.2l limits the space that I’m able to work with, and pretty much eliminates the idea of long tubes for mine. We will be eager to see your work once you get finished.

By the way…the wifey and my uncle both said hello and have recently been seen rockin’ their “Team USA” shirts.

Thanks for the support! I'm eager to get this build done, as I'm moving outta state and house is under contract, so I'm on a time crunch! Getting as much done as I can, before we tow to my mechanic to custom build exhaust, install external fuel pump, and program the puter.

 

[Sparksalot]

Used my day old electric impact wrench to do a tire test on thecopcar. I’d noticed a slight vibration at about 80 or so a few weeks ago. When I had the tpms sensors replaced and tires rebalanced, the vibration changed. A little bit.

today I swapped the Eagle RSAs from theothertwin onto it and went for a drive. I was at 90 before I knew it. No vibration. I had been worried something in the front end was giving me a sign.

 

[iamdub]

Having a 6.2l limits the space that I’m able to work with, and pretty much eliminates the idea of long tubes for mine.

The 6.2 is externally the same dimensions as the 5.3 and 4.8. They're all the same, even up to the 7.0. A 6.2 could use larger primaries than what would normally be used on engines of a smaller displacement. But, that's typically 1 7/8" versus 1 3/4". That's only 1/8" difference in diameter meaning a mere 1/16" closer to whatever might be near that primary tube. They pretty much all feed into a 3" collector. Many use 1 7/8" on their 5.3s. You're gonna need a better excuse to not get them catted Kooks or ARHs you've been eyeing!

 

[Rocket Man]

The 6.2 is externally the same dimensions as the 5.3 and 4.8. They're all the same, even up to the 7.0. A 6.2 could use larger primaries than what would normally be used on engines of a smaller displacement. But, that's typically 1 7/8" versus 1 3/4". That's only 1/8" difference in diameter meaning a mere 1/16" closer to whatever might be near that primary tube. They pretty much all feed into a 3" collector. Many use 1 7/8" on their 5.3s. You're gonna need a better excuse to not get them catted Kooks or ARHs you've been eyeing!

Yeah I was thinking wth with that statement. It’s only bigger on the inside!

 

[08z71bgm]

Yeah I was thinking wth with that statement. It’s only bigger on the inside!

Lol I just let it go. Let them think it’s larger outside….

 

[swathdiver]

Anyone ever get a steering wheel angle sensor code, C0710-5A, when changing tie rods? Got the code while changing out the tie rods on the Sierra. Well, it came on during the test drive. As my daughter was pulling out of the driveway for a test drive, we heard a rhythmic rubbing sound which turned out to be the rotor rubbing the pads unevenly. The light came on after going around the block twice.

Today it was learned that she did not tighten the tire properly, it was askew and we fixed that. The previous owner removed the screw that keeps the rotor tight against the hub. The new screw could not get through the rust and I could not find my metric tap and die set to clean up the threads. We left it off. After triple checking the tire, it on properly and securely now.

With the lift, we had to cut down the inner and outer tie rods 1/2 inch each. It was still too long, so we used the belt sander to cut them down the rest of the way until they matched the old ones. Ran out of light, driver's side is done.

Truck also has a current and often historical code for the throttle position sensor, P0121-00. Not sure what might have caused that. Drive's fine though.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

Guts look great(other than the g80 govbomb, typical amount of metal stuck to the magnets for 139kmi. New felpro gasket.
40 thousandths backlash is a bit tight. (.006-.010) and strange for the miles...
Drivers side axle seal has a slight leak.
Parking brake shoes have delaminated.
Sauced it up with amsoil and re-blackened the cover.
Stripped off the cut garbage from the wrecking yard.

 

[Doubeleive]

ebay. price has gone up since i purchased

For 2007-2014 Chevrolet Chevy Tahoe Clear Fog Driving Light LED OEM Replacement | eBay

Type: Front Bumper Fog Light Assembly with Bezels (With Built-in LED). Left and Right side Fog lights with Built-in LED. Fog Light (LH=RH) : GM2590104 / 15839896. 2007-2012 GMC Acadia with round lens fog light models only.

www.ebay.com

same lights $23 cheaper

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[George B]

New O2 sensors and cleaned the MAF. before and after logs in my build thread.

 

[Doubeleive]

installed the SS3 max fog lights on the Silverado, I would imagine the results would be very similar for the tahoe/yukon version they would be the same light pods

Black Betty 2018 Z71 Silverado....build

went up with a few people to try out a trail and got hung up on the 1st obstacle, mainly my steps but the frame scraped a bit as well, will have to try again with 35's and sliders instead of steps, backed out and let the rest go by then we went up the mountain a few more miles and went on some...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[alpha_omega]

The 6.2 is externally the same dimensions as the 5.3 and 4.8. They're all the same, even up to the 7.0. A 6.2 could use larger primaries than what would normally be used on engines of a smaller displacement. But, that's typically 1 7/8" versus 1 3/4". That's only 1/8" difference in diameter meaning a mere 1/16" closer to whatever might be near that primary tube. They pretty much all feed into a 3" collector. Many use 1 7/8" on their 5.3s. You're gonna need a better excuse to not get them catted Kooks or ARHs you've been eyeing!

Thank you for that one. I didn’t know the 4.8 and 7.0 fell into the same category as the 5.3, and 6.2. Is that just for the Gen IV L94?
I thought there were different “setups” (AWD, 4WD) and depending on the year (aluminum block vs “cinderblock”) that made a difference in the amount of space available “under the hood”. Not specifically engine size, but the configuration of engine and drivetrain that cuts down the “wiggle room”.
Is it the 4WD vs AWD that reduced the amount of room for headers? I thought there was an issue with my 6.2, whereas the long tubes either wouldn’t fit or wouldn’t fit without coating/wrapping them, the coils, and any wiring (plus or minus the trans/oil coolant lines).

I remember reading something about it back when I was looking at headers, the setup I have either “needed” or worked best with shortys (requiring the least amount of additional mods).

 

[Doubeleive]

Thank you for that one. I had no idea the 6.2 and 7.0 used the same “platform”. I know it’s an “LS engine”, but I thought they had different setups based off the configuration (2WD, AWD, 4WD) and the year (aluminum block vs “cinderblock”).
Is it the 4WD vs AWD that reduced the amount of room for headers? I thought there was an issue with my 6.2, whereas the long tubes either wouldn’t fit or wouldn’t fit without coating/wrapping them, the coils, and any wiring (plus or minus the trans/oil coolant lines).

I remember reading something about it back when I was looking at headers, the setup I have either “needed” or worked best with shortys (requiring the least amount of additional mods).

there is no difference in room (space) between a 4wd and AWD, the only difference is the type of gear inside the front diff housing, at least I don't think there is I could be wrong, if there is a difference it can't be much

 

[alpha_omega]

Anyone ever get a steering wheel angle sensor code, C0710-5A, when changing tie rods? Got the code while changing out the tie rods on the Sierra. Well, it came on during the test drive. As my daughter was pulling out of the driveway for a test drive, we heard a rhythmic rubbing sound which turned out to be the rotor rubbing the pads unevenly. The light came on after going around the block twice.

Today it was learned that she did not tighten the tire properly, it was askew and we fixed that. The previous owner removed the screw that keeps the rotor tight against the hub. The new screw could not get through the rust and I could not find my metric tap and die set to clean up the threads. We left it off. After triple checking the tire, it on properly and securely now.

With the lift, we had to cut down the inner and outer tie rods 1/2 inch each. It was still too long, so we used the belt sander to cut them down the rest of the way until they matched the old ones. Ran out of light, driver's side is done.

Truck also has a current and often historical code for the throttle position sensor, P0121-00. Not sure what might have caused that. Drive's fine though.

I’m sure you probably have, but I’ll ask anyways - have you cleared the codes and done a relearn for the TPS? Mine took a couple try’s. It came back on after changing the TB and gasket, so I thought I may have either over or under torqued the bolts. Pulled it off, put a new gasket on, did the relearn and it’s been fine ever since.

These vehicles are known for the TPS to burn out. One small connection. There’s a good YouTube video where a guy dissects one to show where the bad contact point is.

 

[alpha_omega]

there is no difference in room (space) between a 4wd and AWD, the only difference is the type of gear inside the front diff housing

Right. I’m not talking engine size (cubic feet) I’m talking available space for making those kinds of changes.

Edit: stay humble - removed dumbass comment

 

[Doubeleive]

Right. I’m not talking engine size (cubic feet) I’m talking available space for making those kinds of changes. Kinda like the difference in changing out motor mounts in a 4WD vs AWD. Anyone who has ever done 4WD will find changing AWD a breeze.

how so? the only difference is one has a actuator screwed on and one does not, unscrew the actuator and they are the exact same size

 

[alpha_omega]

Standing fully corrected on that dumbass statement. Thank you for that fact check.
The mounts on my 02’ were a SOB, but my 11’ was a breeze. Chalk it up to my angle of attack on the second go around - having the starter, exhaust manifold, tires and inner fender liners all removed?
Regardless, the toughest bolts to torque down on both vehicles were the passenger side from underneath.

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

View attachment 358553

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

This little bugger right here was sucking air. I guess the cap rotted off? Got a new rubber cap and the ltft went from 29% down to .8… fml

 

[Rocket Man]

Thank you for that one. I didn’t know the 4.8 and 7.0 fell into the same category as the 5.3, and 6.2. Is that just for the Gen IV L94?
I thought there were different “setups” (AWD, 4WD) and depending on the year (aluminum block vs “cinderblock”) that made a difference in the amount of space available “under the hood”. Not specifically engine size, but the configuration of engine and drivetrain that cuts down the “wiggle room”.
Is it the 4WD vs AWD that reduced the amount of room for headers? I thought there was an issue with my 6.2, whereas the long tubes either wouldn’t fit or wouldn’t fit without coating/wrapping them, the coils, and any wiring (plus or minus the trans/oil coolant lines).

I remember reading something about it back when I was looking at headers, the setup I have either “needed” or worked best with shortys (requiring the least amount of additional mods).

The only difference as far as room for headers is the front diff is there in the 4wd/AWD vs a 2WD. The more expensive manufacturers like American Racing Headers or Kooks build header/ y-pipe packages that fit the 4wd/AWD configurations. The cheaper headers are one-size-fits-all and it’s up to you to make them fit. I have ARH on my blown 6.0 ‘02 AWD Denali and they fit perfectly. There’s not much room, they are made to fit around everything.

 

[Rocket Man]

View attachment 358553

Cheap fixes are the best.