Useless Information

[swathdiver]

Ok, went and separated tanks of fuel from March '18 to current and divided between gasoline and low ethanol content and full ethanol content.

From March '18 to March 17, 2019 on E0 to E30 the average MPG of the truck was 14.68.

From March 18, 2019 to Current on E0 to E30 the average MPG of the truck has been 15.37.

Using the former timeframe on E70 and E85, the average MPG was 11.49 MPG.

Using the latter timeframe on E70 and E85, the average MPG was 11.96 MPG.

Bottom line, the truck's MPG has increased an average of .58 MPG, .69 MPG on gasoline and .47 MPG on Ethanol.

We've been trying to install the drag reduction clips on the rear brakes but the summer rains are here, we'll keep trying to install them though.

 

[mountie]

swathdiver...... You must be REALLY good using Excel !!!

 

[swathdiver]

About three months ago one piston on one of the front calipers failed to retract and caused the truck to vibrate. It got so bad that the steering wheel was wobbling side to side on its own a few blocks away from home. The next day we took the wheels off, pulled the pads, retracted the pistons and serviced the slides and such and all was good until today.

Well today it acted up again and felt like a wheel was about to fall off at 70 MPH, so I slowed to 65 and the vibration was manageable until exiting the highway. Then I had to hit the brakes because some lady ran out into the road to shew a turtle off the side of the road with her umbrella. I pulled over, picked up the turtle and put him in the back of my truck, and put him in the back field of a church's parking lot. There I could smell my brakes but could not find the harbor freight infrared thermometer.

Had lunch with my wife and drove 18 miles home. Taking her to lunch, the steering wheel was cranked to the right to drive in a straight line.

Gas mileage went to the pits, 3 or 4 mpg at some points. Put the truck in neutral at a light and it was like setting the parking brake, truck just stopped! Back on highway, kept the speed at 60 and watched the transmission temp jump to 183 and then back to 169 as the piston receded or wore down the pad and the load on the motor eased up.

So now I've been verifying part numbers and need to decide on a course of action. Should I rebuild the caliper? Replace the hoses? Am I supposed to replace the pads when doing new calipers? I forget. Man, we just did new pads and rotors last year with all OE parts, not cheap.

What do you fellas think? Pete? Ken? Chris? Joe? Pete? Roger?

 

[Tonyrodz]

About three months ago one piston on one of the front calipers failed to retract and caused the truck to vibrate. It got so bad that the steering wheel was wobbling side to side on its own a few blocks away from home. The next day we took the wheels off, pulled the pads, retracted the pistons and serviced the slides and such and all was good until today.

Well today it acted up again and felt like a wheel was about to fall off at 70 MPH, so I slowed to 65 and the vibration was manageable until exiting the highway. Then I had to hit the brakes because some lady ran out into the road to shew a turtle off the side of the road with her umbrella. I pulled over, picked up the turtle and put him in the back of my truck, and put him in the back field of a church's parking lot. There I could smell my brakes but could not find the harbor freight infrared thermometer.

Had lunch with my wife and drove 18 miles home. Taking her to lunch, the steering wheel was cranked to the right to drive in a straight line.

Gas mileage went to the pits, 3 or 4 mpg at some points. Put the truck in neutral at a light and it was like setting the parking brake, truck just stopped! Back on highway, kept the speed at 60 and watched the transmission temp jump to 183 and then back to 169 as the piston receded or wore down the pad and the load on the motor eased up.

So now I've been verifying part numbers and need to decide on a course of action. Should I rebuild the caliper? Replace the hoses? Am I supposed to replace the pads when doing new calipers? I forget. Man, we just did new pads and rotors last year with all OE parts, not cheap.

What do you fellas think? Pete? Ken? Chris? Joe? Pete? Roger?

If it was me--I'd get a rebuilt caliper, replace both front hoses--your choice, oem or braided--and new front pads. Your rotor might be glazed, or even warped due to all the heat generated, so you might need a new rotor unless you can find someone who can cut it for you.

 

[George B]

About three months ago one piston on one of the front calipers failed to retract and caused the truck to vibrate. It got so bad that the steering wheel was wobbling side to side on its own a few blocks away from home. The next day we took the wheels off, pulled the pads, retracted the pistons and serviced the slides and such and all was good until today.

Well today it acted up again and felt like a wheel was about to fall off at 70 MPH, so I slowed to 65 and the vibration was manageable until exiting the highway. Then I had to hit the brakes because some lady ran out into the road to shew a turtle off the side of the road with her umbrella. I pulled over, picked up the turtle and put him in the back of my truck, and put him in the back field of a church's parking lot. There I could smell my brakes but could not find the harbor freight infrared thermometer.

Had lunch with my wife and drove 18 miles home. Taking her to lunch, the steering wheel was cranked to the right to drive in a straight line.

Gas mileage went to the pits, 3 or 4 mpg at some points. Put the truck in neutral at a light and it was like setting the parking brake, truck just stopped! Back on highway, kept the speed at 60 and watched the transmission temp jump to 183 and then back to 169 as the piston receded or wore down the pad and the load on the motor eased up.

So now I've been verifying part numbers and need to decide on a course of action. Should I rebuild the caliper? Replace the hoses? Am I supposed to replace the pads when doing new calipers? I forget. Man, we just did new pads and rotors last year with all OE parts, not cheap.

What do you fellas think? Pete? Ken? Chris? Joe? Pete? Roger?

I would do this:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11532609&cc=1505393&jsn=2520

But verify fitment of course...

 

[kbuskill]

I would definitely replace the caliper, and if doing one side you may as well replace the other side as well.

As for the rotor, you might be able to get by with just sanding the surface to remove any pad material and reuse it but it would be taking a chance of course.

Pads should definitely be replaced.

Hoses might be a good idea... it gives you an excuse to upgrade to stainless brake hoses.

I personally like the drilled and slotted rotors that I am running on all 4 corners of the Burb.

I know there is a difference of opinion on drilled and slotted rotors but these have held up quite well for the last 70k miles.

I have replaced the ceramic pads once since installing the rotors. The first set of pads lasted about 50k miles.

I would eventually like to install the SS lines on mine as well but the braking with the ceramic pads and D&S rotors is fantastic as is.

I would suggest pulling the wheel and looking over everything before making any rash decisions and ordering parts. Let your eyes be the judge.

 

[mountie]

If it was me, safety is #1. Confidence in your brakes is #2.
Considering the price ( all things considering)...... Replace both front calipers / check & service rotors.
Might as well replace hoses to S.S.

........ For a year & a half I was driving on "someone else's" used front brakes. I am so glad my new Powerstop setup & S.S. hoses is done.... I feel confident now.

..But that's me....

 

[Fless]

Then I had to hit the brakes because some lady ran out into the road to shew a turtle off the side of the road with her umbrella. I pulled over, picked up the turtle and put him in the back of my truck, and put him in the back field of a church's parking lot.


What do you fellas think? Pete? Ken? Chris? Joe? Pete? Roger?

Not judging, but one should never relocate or move a turtle more than just off the road, and it should be moved in the direction in which it was traveling. Not a big fan of PETA, but this is true:
https://www.peta.org/action/save-help-turtles-cross-road-safely/

 

[mountie]

"People for the Eating of Tasty Animals".....

But, yes.... Turtles know where they are going, and want to go there.

 

[swathdiver]

Not judging, but one should never relocate or move a turtle more than just off the road, and it should be moved in the direction in which it was traveling. Not a big fan of PETA, but this is true:
https://www.peta.org/action/save-help-turtles-cross-road-safely/

I learned that long before PETA was around, Steve; I'm a Floridian! Helping these critters is a near daily occurance. LOL

Did indeed take the gopher tortoise from the ladies who wanted to throw him into a canal and towards his direction of travel. At the back of the church where he was headed was a field and wooded area with some standing water. This put him about 150 yards from the road. Guess he was tired of the 14 acres on the other side of the road which is our church's property! LOL

Had a low blood sugar episode this morning so too weak to work on the truck. Maybe this evening when it cools down. Wisdom I think has finally caught up to my tendency to overreact and think of the worst. Not spending a nickel until we take it apart and have a look. Thankful for having that luxury!

Thanks for the advise guys, including yours Steve, appreciate you all!

 

[PG01]

I would definitely replace the caliper, and if doing one side you may as well replace the other side as well.

As for the rotor, you might be able to get by with just sanding the surface to remove any pad material and reuse it but it would be taking a chance of course.

Pads should definitely be replaced.

Hoses might be a good idea... it gives you an excuse to upgrade to stainless brake hoses.......

.......I would suggest pulling the wheel and looking over everything before making any rash decisions and ordering parts. Let your eyes be the judge.

here is exactly what I think james, Ken typed out exactly what I was thinking...

And... as much as I hate doing things 2x let alone 3x I would get the new rotors and try to sell the old (new) ones on craiglist or something to recoupe some money.

And.... if I’m being honest, I might even reuse the pads, how many cars/trucks have you ‘pad slapped’ over the years...Both you and I know with the driving you do they will burn into the new rotors and be fine.

 

[swathdiver]

One of the pistons on the driver's side caliper does not move. Need to have this thing up and running for Independence Day road trip but factory new calipers are nowhere to be found. Need compressed air to get the pistons out, going to try the Hybrid compressor with an attachment first before leaving the house and asking a shop.

Driver's side pads and rotor are toast, literally. There's a lot of char so must've been a small fire or it was glowing red. Rotor looks like it was driven for 6 months past the squealer.

 

[mountie]

I don't know if you can purchase factory "new"?? I understand, factory- ordered replacements are rebuilt anyway? ( I may be wrong)....

But I am surprised you are unable to buy replacement calipers quickly. ( I may be wrong)

 

[swathdiver]

I don't know if you can purchase factory "new"?? I understand, factory- ordered replacements are rebuilt anyway? ( I may be wrong)....

But I am surprised you are unable to buy replacement calipers quickly. ( I may be wrong)

I was trying for NEW, GM shows two part numbers for mine that are not Remans and are coated (painted) and not bare. I think one of them is aluminum.

 

[mountie]

I get it now..... It took me a little while to confirm fitment for my Powerstop set up.

 

[George B]

Use brake pressure to get the piston out.

Edit: It will make a mess...

 

[swathdiver]

Use brake pressure to get the piston out.

Edit: It will make a mess...

One piston was stuck, we pressed the pedal with the motor off a few times until the booster bled out and then started the truck, still the one was stuck.

Hooked up the Hybrid portable tire inflator, plugged it into the back of the truck, left the motor running for full power, put two blocks of wood in front of the pistons and put air into the brake line hole and POW! Sounded like an M80 going off! Ripped the outer gasket. Removed one block of wood and did it again. POW! POW! Both pistons smashed into the block of wood. Mission accomplished!

Took it to the kitchen table (work bench is buried in tools and parts) and pulled the pistons out and after some light cleaning, that one did not fit into the bore right at all. Even the other one didn't want to go in. Dug out nylon and brass bristle brushes and got to cleaning at first with water and Dawn in the sink (wife is sleeping) and then with alcohol. Caliper is now drying in the oven. Yes, I did shut the motor off earlier!

Seals are scheduled to arrive today. Upon pulling the pistons out, was surprised to see so much debris in the caliper bottom. There was rust where the seals rested on the machined surface of the caliper but no leaks, everything was dry.

 

[mountie]

One piston was stuck, we pressed the pedal with the motor off a few times until the booster bled out and then started the truck, still the one was stuck.

Hooked up the Hybrid portable tire inflator, plugged it into the back of the truck, left the motor running for full power, put two blocks of wood in front of the pistons and put air into the brake line hole and POW! Sounded like an M80 going off! Ripped the outer gasket. Removed one block of wood and did it again. POW! POW! Both pistons smashed into the block of wood. Mission accomplished!

Took it to the kitchen table (work bench is buried in tools and parts) and pulled the pistons out and after some light cleaning, that one did not fit into the bore right at all. Even the other one didn't want to go in. Dug out nylon and brass bristle brushes and got to cleaning at first with water and Dawn in the sink (wife is sleeping) and then with alcohol. Caliper is now drying in the oven. Yes, I did shut the motor off earlier!

Seals are scheduled to arrive today. Upon pulling the pistons out, was surprised to see so much debris in the caliper bottom. There was rust where the seals rested on the machined surface of the caliper but no leaks, everything was dry.

My finger nails got dirty, just by reading that.

( I used to do that sort of repairs myself..... )

 

[swathdiver]

I don't know if you can purchase factory "new"?? I understand, factory- ordered replacements are rebuilt anyway? ( I may be wrong)....

But I am surprised you are unable to buy replacement calipers quickly. ( I may be wrong)

Was looking for a certain part number and eventually a dealership nearby returned my inquiry and quoted retail price ($220.81 for both out the door) plus a $50 core charge for each. I was wanting to be frugal but was starting to think stupid. Am about to rebuild one caliper with 155K on the truck and replacing parts that have less than 20K on them because the calipers were not replaced last time. If I were to rebuild the other caliper, then the brakes have to be bled all over again. And besides, how long would that one last?

Spent more time on the caliper this morning cleaning it up, the face of each piston that contacts the pads was cracking and had some lumps so they would need replacing too. So that would be about $45 to $50 per caliper in parts and our good friends over PartsCenterPlus on Ebay had brand new ones for $63.97 each, delivered. No brainer right? Ordered them along with new hoses, $13.90 delivered, each. No core charge on the calipers.

For anyone coming along later on and needs some part numbers:

Brake Caliper, Front, Left, New, Coated = 23276878
Brake Caliper, Front, Right, New, Coated = 23276880
Brake Hose, Left = 84331227 or 176-2002
Brake Hose, Right = 84331228 or 176-2003
Brake Pads, Front = 22742382 or 171-1074
Brake Rotors Front = 22950036 or 177-1014

These are GM Original Equipment numbers. The pads are specific for a 4x4 with JL1 and JD9 brakes, ie they are for towing and they stop wonderfully. Many thanks to Rene for confirming these numbers and providing the GM pricing for comparison. @915_Tahoe

The brake caliper bolts are 19mm and the slide pin both have 19mm heads. The brake caliper bracket bolts have 18mm heads. The caliper bracket is supposed to have some loc-tite on it and torqued to 148 FT LBS, while the caliper bolts get torqued to 74 FT LBS. When torquing these down, you have to hold the slide pin with the 19mm wrench, but DO NOT let the wrench touch the caliper while tightening or torquing as vibration may ensue while breaking. I do not understand why, that's just what the manual says.

Either got bit or had an allergic reaction to something and have broken out in hives that resemble bug bites. As a precaution we fumigated our clothes, sheets and living spaces but I'm the only one so it must have been an allergic reaction but to what? Taking Benadryl and it sure does make me eyelids heavy!

 

[swathdiver]

Finally got the front finished and then began tackling the rear. I'm very weak and doing just one side is exhausting these days even though it only takes a few minutes.

Lifted the RR caliper off the bracket and saw that the rubber around the piston has a hole in it but is not leaking. Piston compressed smoothly. Outside pad depth on that side just under 7mm after 34K miles. The LR caliper piston had some initial resistance and then compressed smoothly. Pads on this side are just over 7mm for the outside ones.

Could not get the rear rotors off to inspect the parking brake shoes so we decided to skip it, didn't want to spend anymore money or down time on a new puller set. So we got it all back together and went to bleed the brakes. No joy! The RR bleeder was stripped and even the line wrench was slipping off of it. Vise grips didn't work with the caliper on the car.

So I just decided to let her sit for another couple of weeks and buy new rear calipers, pads, parking brake shoes and maybe the parking brake cables and actuator. Not happy with another un-planned expense when we should be sitting on the beach in Daytona. Anyhow, it's the Lord's money and the truck needs to be fixed right to be up for any task we ask of it.

Not liking having her down during hurricane season either. Hmm, might pull that caliper to get the bleeder replaced until the new ones show up. Thoughts?

The rear brake calipers are twice as expensive as the front as GM wants a core charge of $40 per side; none required for the front.