There are just some days I wish I didn't turn wrenches

[OR VietVet]

By the way, the vibes are still in seat and floor board.

 

[iamdub]

My inspection of my girl's 1990 K2500 started at 9 am. First thing I did was decide to swap front and rear tires and while taking off the lug nut at a left rear stud, it came off harder than the rest. Ran a die down it with silicone grease as a lube and then used a tap with grease for the lug nut. Is a through nut because has the center cap held on with the plastic spin on lug nut covers. Put it all back together and after cleaning up the one stud with a wire brush and adding a dap on anti seize to all 24 studs and installing all covers and caps, went on a road test. Seemed to change slightly but vibes are still there between 45 and now 60 mph and now it seems to actually smooth a little with light acceleration. I played with the throttle and came to a conclusion that problem may be mounts or driveline related. Got home and up in the air again. Motor and transmission/transfer case mounts are rock solid. Used a large flat blade screwdriver and torqued on the u-joints and found absolutely no play. Then spun the driveshaft at idle and slight accel and is true as can be, no impact marks and no weights missing. every spring mount, suspension piece, steering piece and anything else that moves or holds something that moves, is tight and looks good. I believe it is gonna have to get worse before I can find the problem.

I am open to all insight to what this could be. I will likely go to sleep tonight thinking about it. I do that a lot.

Did you go through with swapping front and rear wheels?

 

[OR VietVet]

Did you go through with swapping front and rear wheels?

Read post #140.

 

[iamdub]

Read post #140.

I read it a few times before posting. I read it as you took the nuts off in process of rotating them then discovered the damaged lug thread, which you fixed, then put it back together as if to test if that one lug was the cause.

Checked runout on the axle flanges?

 

[OR VietVet]

I read it a few times before posting. I read it as you took the nuts off in process of rotating them then discovered the damaged lug thread, which you fixed, then put it back together as if to test if that one lug was the cause.

Checked runout on the axle flanges?

Sorry, should have been more clear. I fixed the wheel stud at the same time of doing the rotate/swap, front to rear and then experienced the slight difference of symptoms that I listed. Also, I inspected the wear patterns and for belt problems and found nothing obvious. I am going to air them all down a bit and road test and then back up to recommended air pressure and road test and 10 psi over recommended and road test. This problem is testing my diagnostic abilities.

I have not checked axle hub runout but will. That is something I have not considered. Thanks.

 

[iamdub]

Sorry, should have been more clear. I fixed the wheel stud at the same time of doing the rotate/swap, front to rear and then experienced the slight difference of symptoms that I listed. Also, I inspected the wear patterns and for belt problems and found nothing obvious. I am going to air them all down a bit and road test and then back up to recommended air pressure and road test and 10 psi over recommended and road test. This problem is testing my diagnostic abilities.

I have not checked axle hub runout but will. That is something I have not considered. Thanks.

Wanna know whats crazy (and stupid)? Tahoe Twin wrecked his Tahoe about a year ago. He slightly bent one of the 22" wheels- the black and machined ones I had on mine and sold to him. He had it fixed but always had a minor vibration and just assumed the wheel wasn't perfect. He played musical wheels a couple of times with only very minor changes in the vibes. I went to look at it and, during another wheel rotation, I noticed his rear rotor was wobbling. I only noticed it because of the slight on-and-off brake drag when I turned it. Pulled it apart and found the axle flange was bent. This fool didn't wanna bother with it cuz "the vibes didn't bother him" that much and just wanted it put back together. We ended up putting the bent wheel on the bent flange, but 180° "out of phase". So, they pretty much canceled each other out. Of course, the pulsating when braking still remained since the rotor was still wobbling.

He eventually found a new/used axle shaft and swapped it.

 

[OR VietVet]

The axle flange could be it and will check. The thing that gets me is the 45-55+ to 60 mph window of the vibes. When the flange was discovered on the Tahoe Twin, Tahoe, was it at all times and got worse as speed increased or was there a window like mine. Plus, these axles are in a K2500 semi float axle.

 

[NickTransmissions]

The axle flange could be it and will check. The thing that gets me is the 45-55+ to 60 mph window of the vibes. When the flange was discovered on the Tahoe Twin, Tahoe, was it at all times and got worse as speed increased or was there a window like mine. Plus, these axles are in a K2500 semi float axle.

Damn, surprised it wasn't an out-of-balance condition with one of the rear wheels as that's the only thing I know for sure will produce a vibration in a road speed window like that.

Does the vibration only happen upon acceleration or does it happen when loaded as well as coasting?

I'm assuming you have already checked but any play in any of the wheels to indicate possible worn axle bearing(s)?

 

[OR VietVet]

Damn, surprised it wasn't an out-of-balance condition with one of the rear wheels as that's the only thing I know for sure will produce a vibration in a road speed window like that.

Does the vibration only happen upon acceleration or does it happen when loaded as well as coasting?

I'm assuming you have already checked but any play in any of the wheels to indicate possible worn axle bearing(s)?

No looseness at wheel bearings, happens when in that mph window when accelerating, coasting and decelerating. Because it went from 45 mph to 55 mph and now 45 to 60 mph, after tire swap, I am still convinced it COULD be tire related and will try air up a little or down a little next and see what happens. I should have done this already but "forest for the trees" has kicked in. Back to basics, like I always preach. When I find the problem or have a different set of parameters, I will post here.

 

[Tahoe14]

Maybe try the road force balance and see if anything shows up.

 

[OR VietVet]

Maybe try the road force balance and see if anything shows up.

Considering it. I used to run a shop that is still in business and they still do that.

 

[iamdub]

The axle flange could be it and will check. The thing that gets me is the 45-55+ to 60 mph window of the vibes. When the flange was discovered on the Tahoe Twin, Tahoe, was it at all times and got worse as speed increased or was there a window like mine. Plus, these axles are in a K2500 semi float axle.

It was only noticeable within a window. They seemed to first be noticeable around 50ish but seemed to smooth out around 80. This makes sense since all things have a resonant frequency. The tire's composition, flexibility, size, weight, etc. all affect how and at what speeds an imbalance or runout will be absorbed or amplified. Low-profile tires are firm and don't have as much sidewall to roll, so those wobbly motions would be felt over a wider range of speeds/"larger window". It's a lot like how low tire pressure can cause a shake that is easily resolved with adding just a few PSI. When low, the tire is too soft and more easily deformed out of round. The oscillations are easier to get started and then they're fed by the resonance created by maintaining that speed. If you slow down, it gives the tire a chance to "re-round" itself. Speed up and you'll "sling" it back into round.

Then there's the type of suspension, frame and body design that affect what vibes are felt and at what speed. Go slow enough and a wobble will be too slow or even too low of a frequency to be felt. Go fast enough and you reach a point where you "skip" right through the pulses.

 

[OR VietVet]

The throttle body seal for the 2008 4Runner 4.0 showed yesterday and I saw her when I went for tacos. She proceeded to tell me that over the weekend vehicle problems happened with her husbands daily driver, 2005 Ranger truck and had to put a fuel pump in it and the son's Mazda 3 had to have the transmission module replaced. Both of these done at the dealers. I first heard of this yesterday. I think that both had to be towed and that is why she did not call me. I think it all happened on Thursday and Friday of last week but unsure of the exact time because she was a bit frazzled and I was asking her about doing her vehicle. Then, all of a sudden, this morning, she was at the bar she manages, opens at 6 am, and texted me and said if I wanted the 4Runner to do the work, come get it. I dropped off my girl's TB and drove her's to my place and within 2 hours I had it all done. The ignition coils were very easy, once you remove a bracket at the d/s of engine and the air filter lid and snorkle hose, for the passenger side. The throttle body removal was straight forward and went as planned and the battery service was easy of course. Fired right up and idled smoothly. Inspected all the old coils and only the one was cracked.

 

[OR VietVet]

Head bartender at the AL post called me yesterday and said she was lacking power and had CEL and took to dealer where she had the extended warranty. That warranty only covers drivetrain components. She, of course, assumed everything because that is what she was told, she said. They told her needed catalytic converters. It is a 2015 Buick Verano with the 2.4 non-turbo. They gave her no paperwork. I am going to meet her at the Post at 2 pm and check codes and drive up on ramps and see what the catalytic converter set up is. I think it has 2 converters but will know after inspection. Yes, I am doing the oxygen sensors at same time, if I do the work.

Doing my AL friends 400 Kawasaki engine chain sprocket on Thursday morning and another AL member, that owns the 2010 FJ Cruiser that I have worked on for oil leaks, is dropping Thursday evening so I can inspect on Friday morning for new oil drops on ground at his house. I double checked my old work and the oil sender and timing chain tensioner cover on the timing cover, are still dry from my previous work.

Got notice yesterday morning that the rear shocks for the 2013 Acura RDX have shipped from Bronx, NY and are supposed to be here early next week. The p/s mirror assembly, from the Acura dealer, for the 2020 Acura RDX is still "coming".

Other than that, I got nothing to do.

 

[OR VietVet]

I could be over thinking it but it seems the neighbor two doors down may be mad or disappointed in me and now looks like I will not be inspecting his 86 Nissan Hardbody pickup truck. He is the husband of the Suzuki Sidekick lady that had a fuel pressure regulator fail when trying to restart after work and back off ramps. He and she both accepted what I had found about the regulator failure and I had showed them I never touched the regulator for access and work on the valve cover oil leak problem. When he brought down a check for the Sidekick work he was cordial and assured me he would get with me for the Nissan inspection as soon as was back from the body shop where he was just getting it painted. It has been back a week now and he has driven by the house a few times, even with me in the driveway, and never stopped to talk about the inspection. He doesn't even look at me. The wife is still ok and I have talked with her and so has my girl. I think he would go around a different way to get out of neighborhood but we are on a dead end street and he is at the end. At this point, I am glad he has not asked for the inspection because I feel he will be hard to please, even at $80 an hour, which is less than 1/2 of the shop rates in town and again, I make no money on the parts and let them use my discounts.

No biggee actually. I have work here today at 9 and a drop off for tomorrow work and waiting on parts for 2 vehicles to come in. I did learn a long time ago, when running shops, you absolutely cannot please everyone. He is ex Army and even asked me about help with a disability claim with the VA and I hooked him up with the Service Officer at the American Legion.

 

[TollKeeper]

My inspection of my girl's 1990 K2500 started at 9 am. First thing I did was decide to swap front and rear tires and while taking off the lug nut at a left rear stud, it came off harder than the rest. Ran a die down it with silicone grease as a lube and then used a tap with grease for the lug nut. Is a through nut because has the center cap held on with the plastic spin on lug nut covers. Put it all back together and after cleaning up the one stud with a wire brush and adding a dap on anti seize to all 24 studs and installing all covers and caps, went on a road test. Seemed to change slightly but vibes are still there between 45 and now 60 mph and now it seems to actually smooth a little with light acceleration. I played with the throttle and came to a conclusion that problem may be mounts or driveline related. Got home and up in the air again. Motor and transmission/transfer case mounts are rock solid. Used a large flat blade screwdriver and torqued on the u-joints and found absolutely no play. Then spun the driveshaft at idle and slight accel and is true as can be, no impact marks and no weights missing. Every spring mount, suspension piece, steering piece and anything else that moves or holds something that moves, is tight and looks good. I believe it is gonna have to get worse before I can find the problem.

I am open to all insight to what this could be. I will likely go to sleep tonight thinking about it. I do that a lot.

I am at this same point in my GMC Envoy (read my thread over on the other forum).. I have even replaced items not related..

I am at the point of thinking the rear diff side bearings might need to be replaced.

 

[OR VietVet]

Well, the 2010 FJ Cruiser was dropped at 4:30. The lower engine covers were wet with oil. I removed them and immediately saw a wet p/s pump that had drops on it. But the p/s level was at full and the same place where I saw it a couple days ago. The oil level was down though from when I checked a couple days ago. The oil leak looks like it is coming from above the p/s pump and am thinking the valve cover. My previous gasket and oil sender are dry. Gonna let cool overnight and tomorrow morning I am gonna remove the air snorkel and as much as I need for sight access and see if is the valve cover. No, in the pic, the oil pan drain plug is not leaking.

 

[OR VietVet]

This morning, on the 2010 FJ Cruiser 4.0, removed the air filter housing and the complete snorkel assembly but left it all plugged in and started the engine and waited for oil drops. After about 10 minutes, saw fresh oil drops hanging from the power steering pump and verified that the timing cover was leaking from the junction where the back of timing cover and the front of the head complete the shelf for the valve cover to seal against. That work is beyond my space capabilities and my desire to have such a long job. My friend that just opened the shop, see my post of flatbed truck bringing in his tool boxes, is going to do the work. Gonna do timing chain complete set and water pump and fan clutch and belt.

Could I have done it, yes. Could my back handle it, maybe. Would my 70 year old body have ached for days, very much so. Pic shows fresh oil drop at bottom of p/s pump.

 

[OR VietVet]

Like I told people when I started this work. No engine or transmission swaps. Clutch jobs only on a case by case basis. Almost everything else is up for grabs unless I feel that it is bigger than I want to take on. Afterall, I do also have to keep my girl's landlord happy. The AL member that owns this rig has more money than he could ever spend. My friend is happy to do it and we can supply all the parts.

 

[OR VietVet]

The rear shocks came in for the 2013 Acura RDX and he is dropping off Friday evening so I can work in 50 degree weather on Saturday morning. Also getting a complete $80 inspection to see what else may be needed. I have only test driven so far when I found the "klunky" rear shocks.

If interested in owning another vehicle that I have worked on, I will be listing a 65 Mustang soon. I am going to do a preliminary post here at the Forum.