Tahoe idle oil pressure

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JPVortex

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I was going to originally do that, just buy an adapter. But it would have taken 2 or 3 days to arrive, and I was ready to get it done. After I couldn't find anywhere local to buy one, that's when I decided to just drill out my old oil sensor and just make my own adapter.
I feel ya on that one lol, waiting sucks lol.
 
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JPVortex

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For changing oil do yall think a PF46E will be fine? They have a PF61E that is longer, but I realized that after I bought the P46E. I also may throw in some 10w40 or something that'll help increase the oil pressure a bit.
 
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For the oil pickup tube o ring, does the color matter? I know theres red, green, and black. Not sure what's in mine but no matter the color would this Fel-Pro one work?

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Theres no way I'm fitting this tester into the port. Is there any easier spot to test this?
 

iamdub

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Theres no way I'm fitting this tester into the port. Is there any easier spot to test this?

I think there's a port near the oil filter. That might only be on the ones with the engine oil cooler, though.
 
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Actually managed to get it in, this is warm idle. So pressure is actually low. this gauge shows very slightly higher than the built in one
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I think the next step for me is going to be to drop the oil pan and replace that o ring along with the pan gasket. It's worth it either way because after visual inspection its leaking a bit
 

iamdub

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Actually managed to get it in, this is warm idle. So pressure is actually low. this gauge shows very slightly higher than the built in oneView attachment 389562

Well, damn. At least you know you're not chasing a ghost. Lets hope that it's just a leaky O-ring and not major internal wear causing the loss of pressure. By your timeline, I don't believe it's wear. I'm hoping it's just the common O-ring failure and you did good by noticing the pressure and troubleshooting immediately.

I agree with replacing the pan gasket if it's leaking and needs to be replaced anyway and replacing that O-ring while you're in there. But, if a quick diagnosis would help you sleep better in the meantime, do the overfill and nosedive test.
 
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Well, damn. At least you know you're not chasing a ghost. Lets hope that it's just a leaky O-ring and not major internal wear causing the loss of pressure. By your timeline, I don't believe it's wear. I'm hoping it's just the common O-ring failure and you did good by noticing the pressure and troubleshooting immediately.

I agree with replacing the pan gasket if it's leaking and needs to be replaced anyway and replacing that O-ring while you're in there. But, if a quick diagnosis would help you sleep better in the meantime, do the overfill and nosedive test.
I may overfill or I may just throw the parts in ASAP. May start removing the front diff in the morning.

Do you think the truck is safe to drive still without any damage in the near future?
 

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I may overfill or I may just throw the parts in ASAP. May start removing the front diff in the morning.

Do you think the truck is safe to drive still without any damage in the near future?

If the problem is indeed a leaking O-ring or other internal leak, and it doesn't get into the single digits, then it's fine. You're still well above the bare minimum in pressure and it's still up when revved/driving.
 
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If the problem is indeed a leaking O-ring or other internal leak, and it doesn't get into the single digits, then it's fine. You're still well above the bare minimum in pressure and it's still up when revved/driving.
Great to hear, thanks. I'll still get it done asap but at least I know it's okay for the immediate future.
 

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That oil pressure at idle should be just fine I would think.
 
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That oil pressure at idle should be just fine I would think.
They're supposed to idle warm at around 40psi, I'm getting around 28psi. So not great but itll due for the immediate future
 
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If I get my front differential off, wouldn't I technically be safe to drive still if I kept my cv axles on with the axle nut and bungee cord the other side so they're not flopping around? Just so I can get part of the job done while waiting for parts but can still have my vehicle to drive.
 

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I was reading an older thread on forum maybe you have read. I have 2017 with 26000 miles and it carries 24 25 lb. at hot idle.
 

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I was reading an older thread on forum maybe you have read. I have 2017 with 26000 miles and it carries 24 25 lb. at hot idle.

Your engine has a variable displacement oil pump. It reduces pumping efforts to reduce engine load when the extra volume and pressure isn't needed. But this does show that ~24 psi oil pressure at idle is "fine" as far as bearings, etc.
 

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If I get my front differential off, wouldn't I technically be safe to drive still if I kept my cv axles on with the axle nut and bungee cord the other side so they're not flopping around? Just so I can get part of the job done while waiting for parts but can still have my vehicle to drive.
Here is video you can check out that was done without lift.
 

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Your engine has a variable displacement oil pump. It reduces pumping efforts to reduce engine load when the extra volume and pressure isn't needed. But this does show that ~24 psi oil pressure at idle is "fine" as far as bearings, etc.
Thanks
 
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If I get my front differential off, wouldn't I technically be safe to drive still if I kept my cv axles on with the axle nut and bungee cord the other side so they're not flopping around? Just so I can get part of the job done while waiting for parts but can still have my vehicle to drive.
what do you guys think about this?
 

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