Rocket Man's 2008 Bagged CC Silverado Build AKA "THE MACHINE"

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Rocket Man

Rocket Man

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Make sure you look those babies over when you get them back. Def don't want or need any nicks or scratches on them because they don't know how to mount them correctly.
Yep. Actually, one of the rears had a couple scratches on the outside of the lip when I dropped them off, maybe from being in the house and being moved around for months. It’s ok though, they will buff out. That’s the good thing about billets. The place I took them to is a place I trust. It took me years to find a tire place that knew how to work on big rims and that I could trust. When I took one of the rears to them so they could see what I needed done and explained the tires were stretched too,the dude said “no problem, we can mount and stretch any tire.”
 

NathanJax

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Got my new intro's mounted on my Silverado.
img_8864-jpg.219418

:win:
 
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Rocket Man

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Ok, I've been stressing over the rear wheels since I mounted them. Back when I ordered them, I factored in the 2" spacers I had on the old wheels and since they were at the correct distance in from the fenders I ordered the new wheels with a backspace of 3". The old ones had a 5 1/8" backspace. That would have pushed the lip out 1/8" with the spacers removed and resulted in the beautiful 9" lip they have instead of the 7" on the old ones. Should be no problem. But IIRC, they could only get to a 2 3/4" backspace due to the design of the hoops,which would have pushed them out another 1/4" to a total of 3/8" out from where the old ones were. Still OK, from my measurements and calculations. However... even the best calculations don't factor in things like the centers are different which changed the location from the hub to the outside lip. By another 1/4". So they're now in danger territory ( but the lips are actually 9 1/2" instead of the 9" I was expecting) and on the first run I (barely) scraped the outside of the passenger lip which I polished out. Then I proceeded to roll the fenders and also found some inner structure that might have been what caused the scrape so I cut that out with a right angle grinder. I drove to the grocery store today at different ride heights and so far so good. However I'm still concerned that if I have to swerve while at ride height I might scrape a lip. I'm going to look into what it will take to narrow the rear end a bit more like 3/8" on each side. I might be able to use the same axles and just narrow the tubes. I have reached out to intro to see if they will help me out as far as some cash back since they didn't let me know the lips would be further out than the 1/4" we calculated. I'll reach out to Moser axles to see if there's any chance of cutting the tubes 3/8" on each side and reuse the axles. Until then it's careful driving I guess. The life of customs.
 

Tonyrodz

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Ok, I've been stressing over the rear wheels since I mounted them. Back when I ordered them, I factored in the 2" spacers I had on the old wheels and since they were at the correct distance in from the fenders I ordered the new wheels with a backspace of 3". The old ones had a 5 1/8" backspace. That would have pushed the lip out 1/8" with the spacers removed and resulted in the beautiful 9" lip they have instead of the 7" on the old ones. Should be no problem. But IIRC, they could only get to a 2 3/4" backspace due to the design of the hoops,which would have pushed them out another 1/4" to a total of 3/8" out from where the old ones were. Still OK, from my measurements and calculations. However... even the best calculations don't factor in things like the centers are different which changed the location from the hub to the outside lip. By another 1/4". So they're now in danger territory ( but the lips are actually 9 1/2" instead of the 9" I was expecting) and on the first run I (barely) scraped the outside of the passenger lip which I polished out. Then I proceeded to roll the fenders and also found some inner structure that might have been what caused the scrape so I cut that out with a right angle grinder. I drove to the grocery store today at different ride heights and so far so good. However I'm still concerned that if I have to swerve while at ride height I might scrape a lip. I'm going to look into what it will take to narrow the rear end a bit more like 3/8" on each side. I might be able to use the same axles and just narrow the tubes. I have reached out to intro to see if they will help me out as far as some cash back since they didn't let me know the lips would be further out than the 1/4" we calculated. I'll reach out to Moser axles to see if there's any chance of cutting the tubes 3/8" on each side and reuse the axles. Until then it's careful driving I guess. The life of customs.
Hopefully they'll give you a few bucks back. Not holding my breath on that one tho. Wish you luck.
 
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Rocket Man

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You have a panhard or (preferably) a Watt's link?
Watts. It doesn’t move side to side at all from all the way up to all the way down. The only issue I see now that Ive rolled the fenders is side-to-side movement from body roll. I have 3/4” clearance at its tightest point which is about normal drive height on the passenger side and 1 1/4” on the driver side. Might be able to move the bed on its mounts though to even that to 1” for both, Im gonna check it out.
 
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Rocket Man

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The folks at intro are having their engineer look into what can be done about the rear wheels. They’re kind of in a responsible position since the paperwork clearly shows 3” backspacing and the pictures I sent them show it’s 2 3/4”.
 

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