OK, Bought a 07 with a couple problems today.

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SpareParts

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No. The Avalanche does not have a dash mat.
My Yukon has been the same sence I got it before I added a dash mat.
 
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The new front NOS Struts i ordered off EBay arrived today. 1 in a sealed GM box the other open box. I'm pretty happy with the $120 they cost for the pair :favorites37:
 
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Forums are nice if people will post understandable information. The biggest help is posting the solution and how the problem was fixed. Some never do.
I will always post about the problem and the solution and generally answer questions if I can.
I also like posting in one thread and keeping all the info in one place so It's easy to find but with multiple sections some people will never see the thread.
 
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Today, I finally ordered the RC 3.5 lift kit.
Still need to order the Moog HD springs for front/rear, New inner, outer tie rods, either Moog or Mivotech lower control arms and adjustable track bar.
I think that's about all i will need.

Anyone know a good two part spray can paint for suspension?
 
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Got my lower control arm's ordered from Rock Auto.
Seems like a decent price loaded Delphi for $76.79 per side.
Now I think the last parts are inner and outer tie rods and that will be a complete front end rebuild.
I have new:
Upper and lower control arms with bushings ball joints.
Inner and outer tie rods.
New front Z55 struts.
I think that's all it needs. Think i'll just reuse my stock springs.

The rear shocks are working fine. Air boots look solid from the outside and i can't see any leaks. The compressor is about 2 years old so good there. I do have a line leaking on the passenger side ill need to fix.
 

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Driving my wife's 2014 Avalanche I notice the IP lights are always on during the day when lights set to auto even on bright sunny days.
The IP lights on my 2007 Yukon never are on during the day when set to auto. Normally i turn on park lights so i can see the IP during the day.
On a sunny day It's very hard to see the gauges and speedo. Here is a pic i took today around noon with truck running i took of the IP.
Is this normal for an 07 IP and later changed to always on in later years?

View attachment 449396View attachment 449397
That’s caused by a failed light sensor on top of the dash. There are some videos out there about it.
 

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When you do the control arms, mark the adjusters on the upper by scribing a line. I took it for the alignment afterwards and it was within one degree. No issues or hassles with reassembling the front suspension. Pretty straightforward. Important thing to remember is loctite on the front hub mounting bolts, and torque them to spec.
 

rdezs

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Same with your tie rod ends. Measure precisely...
IMG_20250215_015656866_HDR.jpg
 
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Been wondering about that sensor.
The only reason I have not replaced it is that the headlights do work automatically, leading me to think the sensor works as it should.
I was wrong… It’s a mod

 

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Haven't read the whole thread but if you figured out the dim dash gauges issue please let me know.
 
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Dang it, discovered today my left rear airbag on the shock is leaking air through the rubber boot. Had not planned on replacing them but now I guess I'm going to:Stupid Me:
 

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@SpareParts I installed those RC control arms in 2020 and uninstalled them last year because I developed play in the upper balljoints. I enjoyed them but I ended up lowering and had no need to put new balljoints in them but I understand they use a moog joint and there should be many options for replacement
 
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Ball joints are my only concern with the RC UCA arms.
I do use my vehicles in the mountains and could use the added height, so I won't be lowering it.
I plan on this being my forever rig so might as well fix it up the best I can before I retire in a couple more months.
 
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I have been looking at rear shocks for the last few days. I just can not bring myself to pay over $600 for rear shocks and I don't have that kinda money floating around.
I do need the auto level portion though.
I have some Monroe air shocks on my camping van that seem to work pretty good.
The ones im looking hard at are Monroe MA830.
They have mostly good reviews and I have some resistors for the electric part already.
Seems like a good viable alternative to factory for my situation.
 
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Changed the oil today in the wife's 2014 Avalanche and on my 07 Yukon.

Not sure how many miles the Yukon has on the last oil change, probably around 2500 ish.
If you remember back in post #31 all the metal chunks that were in the drain pan, this engine should have been dead in a few weeks. It's still running decent with good oil pressure.
When I changed oil this time there were chunks of copper and aluminum in the pan, but nowhere near as much as the first oil change I did. This being the second and I think the chunks are what did not come out the first oil change.
It does have what I think is 1 piston slapping when cold and will make noise slowly getting quieter until the engine is up to full temp.
I don't think it is an exhaust leak but there is a slight chance as it does have a couple broken bolts. Just not sure.
Anyway, just an update for the thread. Nothing special.
 

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