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Geotrash

Dave
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Well while Im looking for someone to work on my motor issues Im stilll trying to figure out why I have no air blowing out the front vents. The indicator shows the fan is suppose to be going from hi to low but nothing is coming out. The ac compressor is clicking on and off and lines are cold but I get nothing in the inside. No air, no heat no nothing. Rear air blows low but not cold at all. I checked all relays and fuses and all appears fine. Im wondering if the fan blower just happened to go. SMH!!!
Fan motors on these are super easy to replace. And they're cheap as chips. Grab one from Autozone and put 'er in. Did mine in my 2007 a few days after I bought it in less than 10 minutes.
 

swathdiver

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Well while Im looking for someone to work on my motor issues Im stilll trying to figure out why I have no air blowing out the front vents. The indicator shows the fan is suppose to be going from hi to low but nothing is coming out. The ac compressor is clicking on and off and lines are cold but I get nothing in the inside. No air, no heat no nothing. Rear air blows low but not cold at all. I checked all relays and fuses and all appears fine. Im wondering if the fan blower just happened to go. SMH!!!
Blower motor and resistor or the control head needs replacing. Need to put a Tech-2 on it to be sure.

Man, if I wasn't so immobile I'd rebuild your engine for you, whatever it needs. Dan up there does his own work but he was busy last time I saw him on here.

This is the kind of thing that motivated me as a teenager to pick up a wrench and do my own repairs. I was lucky to have a gearhead neighbor across the street to mentor me. First thing he said was to go buy a set of tools and a vise and so I did.
 
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FINALTOUCHFRI

FINALTOUCHFRI

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Ok back to my motor. Had another mechanic look at my motor and he was recommended highly!!! He broke down the motor and he says the following. I basically need a head job. He said there was no damage to cam, and he took oil sample and said there was no metal fragments in the oil. With that being said this is the food list!!! We need both bank lifters, 1 push rod, both head gaskets, both valve cover gaskets, oil, coolant, both exhaust manifold gaskets, both Exhaust hardware, intake manifold gaskets. He says hes trying to source out the lifters from a cheaper source cause the deales want $90 each. Sounds like he know what hes taking about. He also has a tahoe that he swapped out the motor to an LS that is just sick!!!! Hes roughly saying about $1500 for parts and about the same for labor. Your thoughts please !!!!!
 

iamdub

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Ok back to my motor. Had another mechanic look at my motor and he was recommended highly!!! He broke down the motor and he says the following. I basically need a head job. He said there was no damage to cam, and he took oil sample and said there was no metal fragments in the oil. With that being said this is the food list!!! We need both bank lifters, 1 push rod, both head gaskets, both valve cover gaskets, oil, coolant, both exhaust manifold gaskets, both Exhaust hardware, intake manifold gaskets. He says hes trying to source out the lifters from a cheaper source cause the deales want $90 each. Sounds like he know what hes taking about. He also has a tahoe that he swapped out the motor to an LS that is just sick!!!! Hes roughly saying about $1500 for parts and about the same for labor. Your thoughts please !!!!!

So, what actually failed? And why are lifters and one push rod being replaced? Did a valve contact a piston?

Also, how the hell are lifters $90 EACH?! You can get a set of 16 Chevrolet Performance non-AFM lifters for $376 from Summit. That's $23.50 per lifter. I know the AFM lifters can be around twice that. But, if you're going that far, why not swap the cam to delete AFM and vastly improve your chances of never having such a failure ever again? Also- don't forget new lifter trays and ONLY use Genuine GM ones!
 
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FINALTOUCHFRI

FINALTOUCHFRI

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I will run that question to him tomorrow on the AFM lifters and cam. He said they were GM parts from the dealer. Thanks for the info, the more info the better. Im at anyone mercy not knowing these things. THANK YOU!
 

swathdiver

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Ok back to my motor. Had another mechanic look at my motor and he was recommended highly!!! He broke down the motor and he says the following. I basically need a head job. He said there was no damage to cam, and he took oil sample and said there was no metal fragments in the oil. With that being said this is the food list!!! We need both bank lifters, 1 push rod, both head gaskets, both valve cover gaskets, oil, coolant, both exhaust manifold gaskets, both Exhaust hardware, intake manifold gaskets. He says hes trying to source out the lifters from a cheaper source cause the deales want $90 each. Sounds like he know what hes taking about. He also has a tahoe that he swapped out the motor to an LS that is just sick!!!! Hes roughly saying about $1500 for parts and about the same for labor. Your thoughts please !!!!!
New head bolts. If keeping AFM, must replace VLOM with new one as it is SOP and usually the cause of lifter failure.

5 angle valve job gives decent power increase in these motors.
 
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FINALTOUCHFRI

FINALTOUCHFRI

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I just called the local dealer Carl Black and they have the lifters in stock. It takes 8 active $40 each and 8 non active $75 each. Thats better then $90 a piece!!!
 
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FINALTOUCHFRI

FINALTOUCHFRI

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So, what actually failed? And why are lifters and one push rod being replaced? Did a valve contact a piston?

Also, how the hell are lifters $90 EACH?! You can get a set of 16 Chevrolet Performance non-AFM lifters for $376 from Summit. That's $23.50 per lifter. I know the AFM lifters can be around twice that. But, if you're going that far, why not swap the cam to delete AFM and vastly improve your chances of never having such a failure ever again? Also- don't forget new lifter trays and ONLY use Genuine GM ones!
Well After giving the mechanic some ideas he came back with a much cheaper price for the lifters. $920 for the lifters oppose to getting them from the dealer at $980. Big difference after I told him I can get them from the dealer. So at this point we are looking at about $1,200 in parts. So this is what he is doing from what he told me. 1 push rod was bent so he's replacing that. $5 each for push rods. Im figuring since he has it apart why not change all the push rods, exhaust manifold gaskets $30, anti freeze, oil, filter, full head gasket kit $195 he says all gaskets and seals come in the kit, 4 lifter buckets $52, and lifters $240 for 8 and $680 for 8. Total for parts around $1,222. He stated around $1,500 labor for everything. Plus hes putting new plugs and wires in so im thinking $3k for the whole job
 

Geotrash

Dave
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Well After giving the mechanic some ideas he came back with a much cheaper price for the lifters. $920 for the lifters oppose to getting them from the dealer at $980. Big difference after I told him I can get them from the dealer. So at this point we are looking at about $1,200 in parts. So this is what he is doing from what he told me. 1 push rod was bent so he's replacing that. $5 each for push rods. Im figuring since he has it apart why not change all the push rods, exhaust manifold gaskets $30, anti freeze, oil, filter, full head gasket kit $195 he says all gaskets and seals come in the kit, 4 lifter buckets $52, and lifters $240 for 8 and $680 for 8. Total for parts around $1,222. He stated around $1,500 labor for everything. Plus hes putting new plugs and wires in so im thinking $3k for the whole job
That's a lot of money for lifters. I'm running Chevrolet Performance LS7 lifters in my 2012 (AFM deleted) and they're quiet and reliable. Lots of guys run the Morel 7717 lifters as well. Both brands will likely run 300K miles without issues.

As @iamdub said, why not just delete the AFM system completely? You're doing 80% of the job already. The remaining 20% is a new cam and tune to turn off AFM in the ECM. Do that, and you'll never have another problem. The money you'll save by buying Morel 7717 or Chevrolet Performance LS7 lifters will just about pay for the cost of the cam.

At a minimum, I strongly recommend taking @swathdiver's suggestion and get a new VLOM (valley cover that has the control valves for the AFM system). As it was likely the cause of the failure to begin with. I don't recall - were you experiencing any signs of below normal oil pressure before the failure?
 
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