I have a 2015 yukon slt, 4wd, push button start, recently it decided to not start, I checked for dead battery and it was fine, if I went back to the truck a few minutes later it would start. The problem went away then came back, then while driving the gauges would go dead but backlights would stay lit, then radio went black. When I parked the truck it wouldn’t shut off, finally got it to turn off then it wouldn’t start. Next it went completely dead, with booster pack or charger or cables the truck wouldn’t do anything, no dash, no lights not even a click. The battery was still showing full charge but wouldn’t do anything, I put a charger on it anyways and left it for an hour then it decided to start again. I drove it for the next week without any issues until this morning on my way to work, the gauges went dead and the truck wouldn’t shut off, finally got it to shut off and now it won’t start again. When you push the start button nothing happens at all. I’ve seen other posts with similar issues and people saying they changed the negative battery cable but no one seems to answer if that fixed the problem. I’m looking for help instead of just throwing money and parts at it hoping for a cure. Thanks everyone. I love my Yukon but the newer they get the less reliable they seem to be.
2015 Yukon No Dash No Crank Full battery, Need Help
- Thread starter Yukon2703
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Joseph Garcia
Supporting Member
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2018
- Posts
- 6,536
- Reaction score
- 8,559
Welcome to the Forum from NH.
Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.
I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.
Pics of the truck, please.
I cannot personally assist you with your issue, but other members of this Forum much more knowledgeable than me in this area will chime in.
Do you have access to a quality bi-directional scanner? It would be good to see if there are any trouble codes, which would make troubleshooting more efficient and affective.
Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.
I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.
Pics of the truck, please.
I cannot personally assist you with your issue, but other members of this Forum much more knowledgeable than me in this area will chime in.
Do you have access to a quality bi-directional scanner? It would be good to see if there are any trouble codes, which would make troubleshooting more efficient and affective.
MobileHomie
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2021
- Posts
- 107
- Reaction score
- 86
Start by removing and cleaning the cables thoroughly and charge the battery.
Check for any loose or dirty connections on both ends of hte cables.
You did not tell us how old the battery is, these rigs are very finicky with marginal batteries too.
as noted check the cables, actually take them off and clean them even if they "look" ok
also check the starter cable they get burnt at the connection at the starter, some have reported it touching on the heat shield and causing electrical issue's like you have reported.
at any rate your issue is most likely electrical related in one form or another.
The battery is an oem battery about 2 years old, ive already removed cables and cleaned them, they didn’t show much of anything for corrosion. The battery has never lost charge, I’ve had it checked and load tested and it was good.
Today I pulled the negative cable off completely and did a resistance test from all 3 ends of the cable and the cable is good. I cleaned all connection points, cleaned both the frame and engine connection point and reinstalled. The truck started after everything was put back together, with it idling in park the gauges jump around and I get a service airbag light then the dash will cut in and out. Still something messed up but I think I’ve eliminated the negative battery cable and it’s grounding points. Hoping for new ideas.
there is a bcm ground in the front left window under the dash piece right by the left front speaker.
there was a technical bulletin about it for the pickups for having too much glue around the grounding post causing similar problems.
may not be your issue but might also be worth taking a look at.
you have to remove both pillar covers then you have access to the front dash piece, it has clips and lifts up
could be a pinched wire in the harness, fuse box, who knows/ sometimes these things take a oscilliscope to find.
mine was a bad alternator sending 800mv spikes to the bcm making it think the ignition was being turned on/off, but I thknk my issue was pretty freaking rare. took the best tech at the dealer 2 hours with a scope to find it.
check the technicall service bulletins for common places that the harness gets pinched or rubbed on. most are under the frame.
Wanted to provide an update, I bit the bullet and bought a new bcm and had it programmed at the dealer, ouch. Charged me 221 bucks for the module, I replaced it then they charged me 500 dollars to program it and spend an hour running a scan tool looking for issues. To add insult to injury they charged me 63 bucks for shop supplies, I asked for a detailed receipt as there was no supplies used and the explanation I got was all bills have shop supplies regardless if they use any or not, it’s a standard 18% of your labour cost, Unbelievable! Now that I’ve got that off my chest I’ll move onto issues. The truck is starting fine now but still giving me the following service warnings, service trailer brake, service front camera, service stabiletrak. My truck isn’t equipped with a front camera. The only thing the tech could tell me is there is no communication with the chassis control module. Has anyone experienced this issue? Thanks I’m advance for the help.
