Motor oil revelations !

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avalonandl

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Nothing but AC oil filters for me. I love Wix but had one develop a leak on my 2017 Camaro SS...... Delership would have covered the cost if I had an AC filter....

Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum for me....

Not drinking the Amsoil koolaid.....

EDIT : MOBIL 1 on SALE at Wally World....22.88 5 qt.
 
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steve45

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I use Valvoline 10w40 synthetic blend in everything. I used to sell lubrication systems for large gas compressors and we used to get monthly newsletters from Noria (oil analysis lab). Very interesting reading. The reason the manufacturers went to the low viscosity oils was certainly not for improved engine life, but for better fuel economy. Have you noticed that new car warranties are much shorter than they used to be???

I use a blend because the synthetics aren't as 'sticky' as the petro-based oils. Petro-based oils stay on camshafts better, especially if an engine isn't driven for days or weeks. That said, expect your camshafts to wear more now that the EPA has forced the removal of zinc additives to oil... Zinc additives are available.

Regarding Mobil 1, it's important to keep in mind the application when choosing an oil. Years ago, Mobil introduced the first (and only) synthetic oil (Av-1) for aircraft piston engines. The problem was that aircraft gas (avgas) has a lot of lead the did not react well with Av-1 and caused massive amounts of sludge to form. This plugged oil galleys and ruined a lot of engines. Mobil paid a hefty price to overhaul thousands of engines.

I normally buy used vehicles that have 75K - 100K miles on them. Seems like all of them use some oil when I get them. I usually keep a vehicle until 250K - 350K miles. The only vehicles I've had that did not use oil were my company trucks that were all purchased new and were run exclusively on 10w40 Valvoline. They all had 120K-175K on them. All were Chevys.

Remember when you could by a Teflon additive that would 'Teflon coat' the inside of your engine? Ha!
 
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mountie

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Story from 1989.... My '88 GMC C2500 / 350 cid..... During warranty, I brought my truck to the GMC dealer. My oil filter was leaking from the gasket area on my oil cooler adapter. ( 3rd filter - same problem )....
The dealer asked me, " What filter are you using?" I said, " A Fram". Dealer said, " Fram filters leak". ( shown in my warranty invoice)

2 weeks later was the NHRA Winternationals. The GM tent was next to the Fram tent. I got the head salesmen from both tents together. In front of the Fram guy, I said the GM dealer claims, Fram filters leak. ( showing warranty concern invoice)
( The Fram guy said to the GM guy...... " Are you ******* kidding me???"
2 weeks later the dealer changed out my oil cooler adapter. The surface meeting the 'O' ring WAS NEVER MACHINED smooth. ( The surface was the casting finish - rough surface)
 

thompsoj22

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i'm 4500 miles into my oil change the oil is still clean :) the issue starts from the first owner some will change it every 7.5 or 10k miles that is if you only want the engine not to last very long...


I change as soon as i see carbon flakes floating in it.... honestly i;m a bit surprised its still clean.. but normally there will be some carbon flakes floating around at 4500 miles.... the engine mostly runs between 1000 and 2000 rpm Never driven higher then that RPM..

I gotta ask, How do you see carbon flakes floating around? And i have to raise the :bs: as i am 60 years old and seen alot of things in life but clean oil in a combustion engine crankcase at 4500 miles is not one of them? Im not hacking, just saying the fish you caught was not that big! lol






go get a Genuine corvette oil pump shell run 40-50PSI idle and 70-75PSI on a cold start :D
 

BG1988

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you can see them once the filter is by passed and not filtering anymore..

you know the dip stick has access to the oil right??

also my engine barely runs 1000-1500rpm so it' not in the higher range like the normal one that will typically be in the 2500-3500RPM range when driving.. this makes a big difference on how dirty the oil gets and how fast it gets dirty..


this is why it's essential to change the oil frequently. so the carbon does not get deposited onto the engine block..

it will end up clogging up your pickup tube,blocking the Oil pressure screen.. blowing out the oring..


the design of the 7500-15,000 miles oil change is to get you to buy a new car/suv every few years

07856011-1714934.jpg
 
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tgui

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The oring will go bad no matter what. Its just time that kills them. To that if you ever are near that pickup replace the oring even if your pressure is OK. My pressure measurably changed from good to sweet baby rays after a new ring.

Agreed on the deposits... though my 170k mile 6.2 with questionable history showed nothing on the pickup screen. Only typical carbon buildup.

Regarding filter I use ac delco and whatever oil is on sale.

RArCQjF.jpg


P5Omr3n.jpg
 

swat2380

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you can see them once the filter is by passed and not filtering anymore..

you know the dip stick has access to the oil right??

also my engine barely runs 1000-1500rpm so it' not in the higher range like the normal one that will typically be in the 2500-3500RPM range when driving.. this makes a big difference on how dirty the oil gets and how fast it gets dirty..


this is why it's essential to change the oil frequently. so the carbon does not get deposited onto the engine block..

it will end up clogging up your pickup tube,blocking the Oil pressure screen.. blowing out the oring..


the design of the 7500-15,000 miles oil change is to get you to buy a new car/suv every few years

View attachment 246957
I am confused by some of your statements. Do you choose to drive 10 mph all the time like a snow plow or(haven't read entire thread)? Also when was the last time you have seen modern engine oil destroy an engine due to deposits? There are plenty of people running very extended oil changes with oil analysis done and zero problems. We don't use paraffin, graphite or other deposit prone materials in our oil anymore. Hell dino oil can be left for a year and 5-7k plus on several engines for 300+k miles just fine including lots of idle time, short trips etc. like a police car, ambulance, cab. Dark oil is not necessarily dirty oil, you should do yourself a favor and jump on Bob is the oil guy and do some reading there is a ton of good oil education on there
 
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Bob2C

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Nothing but AC oil filters for me. I love Wix but had one develop a leak on my 2017 Camaro SS...... Delership would have covered the cost if I had an AC filter....

Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum for me....

Not drinking the Amsoil koolaid.....

EDIT : MOBIL 1 on SALE at Wally World....22.88 5 qt.
Getting these oils with rebates they have out 2 times a year is a steal. It’s like 2.50 a quart after the rebates. I did buy some Kirkland oil to try and test out when I do my oil change. It’s made by Warren dist. My guess it’s the same as supertec but sone of the reading I have done that good oil too. For me I don’t think it matters too much. I do 3k changes. It’s cheap insurance. 4 times a year for at 20 min each. No brainer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

tgui

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Getting these oils with rebates they have out 2 times a year is a steal. It’s like 2.50 a quart after the rebates. I did buy some Kirkland oil to try and test out when I do my oil change. It’s made by Warren dist. My guess it’s the same as supertec but sone of the reading I have done that good oil too. For me I don’t think it matters too much. I do 3k changes. It’s cheap insurance. 4 times a year for at 20 min each. No brainer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yup deals can save a ton.

Hello from NOVA as well!
 

BG1988

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I am confused by some of your statements. Do you choose to drive 10 mph all the time like a snow plow or(haven't read entire thread)?
it's not a typical 4L60E
This is a $10,000 transmission

it has a 2LM70 (planetary gearing, 4 speed automatic)

barely 1,850.RPM at 85MPH.. 40-45mph =1050RPM <30%(engine load )/1350RPM >30%(engine load )


Gear Ratios
1st — 3.69:1
2nd — 1.70:1
3rd — 1.00:1
4th — 0.73:1
EVT #1 — Infinity to 1.70:1
EVT #2 — 1.70 to 0.50:1
Reverse — Infinity to 1.70:1

Maximum engine torque 380 lb-ft (515 Nm)
Maximum engine power 369 bhp (275 kW)
2, 65kW electric motors (drive motor #1, drive motor #2); Ywound, 3-phase,
 
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avalonandl

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I am confused by some of your statements. Do you choose to drive 10 mph all the time like a snow plow or(haven't read entire thread)? Also when was the last time you have seen modern engine oil destroy an engine due to deposits?



Uhhh... hang around, there will be lots of confusing statements...
 

BG1988

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Uhhh... hang around, there will be lots of confusing statements...
what it's true the tiny push rods that carry oil to the top of the engine will get clogged over time there is this one guy with his 5.7L and it takes 45 seconds for oil to reach the top of the engine those tiny tubes get clogged easy



skip the video to 6:50


you will get the point that dirty oil does not pay to keep in the engine
 

BG1988

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I am confused by some of your statements. Do you choose to drive 10 mph all the time like a snow plow or(haven't read entire thread)? Also when was the last time you have seen modern engine oil destroy an engine due to deposits? There are plenty of people running very extended oil changes with oil analysis done and zero problems. We don't use paraffin, graphite or other deposit prone materials in our oil anymore. Hell dino oil can be left for a year and 5-7k plus on several engines for 300+k miles just fine including lots of idle time, short trips etc. like a police car, ambulance, cab. Dark oil is not necessarily dirty oil, you should do yourself a favor and jump on Bob is the oil guy and do some reading there is a ton of good oil education on there

the gear shift spots are weird and are all over the place.(by design of course ) it can be quite confusing in it self. i can be in 4th gear at 30mph when using M4 on the other hand i can be in 3rd at 50mph or 4th at 40mph...
 

brichter

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How fookin' old is that jet oil? I haven't seen an oil can since the 70s! :eek:

:anitoof:

Horry shet! Just googled it and it still comes in cans brand new! :head3::head3::head3:
 
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JonnyTahoe

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How fookin' old is that jet oil? I haven't seen an oil can since the 70s! :eek:

:anitoof:

what it's true the tiny push rods that carry oil to the top of the engine will get clogged over time there is this one guy with his 5.7L and it takes 45 seconds for oil to reach the top of the engine those tiny tubes get clogged easy



skip the video to 6:50


you will get the point that dirty oil does not pay to keep in the engine
Had a white Tahoe exactly like the one in the video. Those 5.7's are great motors except that they only have 200 H.P.
 
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JonnyTahoe

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i dont use k&n because your just paying extra for that nut. i bought a set of the oil filter sockets for my ratchets. i generally dont need them as i put them on by hand and remove them by hand generally. only oils i wont use is store brand anything and quaker state. far as im aware quaker state came a long way since ive had problems with it but they have already tarnished thier reputation with me. outside of that i buy oil appropriate for what im using it in.
If your able to remove your filter by hand your not getting it tight enough. I have never been able to remove a filter by hand.
 

BG1988

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i dont use k&n because your just paying extra for that nut. i bought a set of the oil filter sockets for my ratchets. i generally dont need them as i put them on by hand and remove them by hand generally. only oils i wont use is store brand anything and quaker state. far as im aware quaker state came a long way since ive had problems with it but they have already tarnished thier reputation with me. outside of that i buy oil appropriate for what im using it in.
that is incorrect if you have a hybrid engine it's quite useful as the oil pan is a weird shape on the 6.0l engine(LFA) other wise someone might get lazy and not install it correct

happened to me losing several qt of oil in just 4 hours of driving(dipsit forgot to tighten it at pepboys) it was not the first time it happened at that location
 

drakon543

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If your able to remove your filter by hand your not getting it tight enough. I have never been able to remove a filter by hand.
ive never seen anyone else able to remove a filter i put on by hand able to remove it with thier hands. ive also been doing this for quite some time and the filter bodys are still dry when i remove them and my vehicles dont require any oil between oil changes. ive actually had people ask what i put the filter on with because it was too tight. maybe you should do some strength building exercises. im also usually able to remove a filter by hand that i never put on.
 

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