Motor oil revelations !

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asand

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As long as its not ****** top off oil from 7/11 and you change it regularly at 4 or 7K for conventional, or 8-10K synthetic, it really doesnt matter which oil you use. its the same as the old Chevy/Ford debate.
 

LittleFish

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Given that an engine will not wear out and fail in at least 20 years of use, using a quality synthetic oil and oil filter, is it really worth the expense and trouble of a centrifugal oil bypass filter? Unless you like spending extra money just to say "I will die before my truck does", I don't think I'll go crazy with oil and filters. I'll stick with a synthetic oil and Wix or ACDelco filters.

Up here in the PNW and Canada, the bodies would rust out first, other mechanical components would wear out and fail, and the lure of newer technology usually causes us to purchase a new or newer vehicle long before an engine would wear out. I doubt my cylinder head cracked because of extended oil changes.
Larryjb: The normal things that used to fail were the high pressure parts on the injector pumps. Since using the centrifugal filters, they have had 2 failures in a fleet of 50+ buses. Most motors run 680,000 miles between mechanical repair intervals (excluding belts and exterior compressors, alternators, etc). Most problematic is injector clogs/injector relays. They swear by it and we do not have the salt or rusting down in the south USA. The biggest failure they had was transmissions from stop and go letting kids up and going again. I wish you well Sir!
 

Larryjb

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Bobby, my comment was for consumer level vehicles, like my Tahoe, not situations that you describe where you have fleet vehicles accumulating hundreds of thousands of miles. I guess I didn't make that distinction in my response.

From your information I'd agree that fleets would benefit economically and practically from the centrifugal filter.
 

brichter

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I'm a n00b here.

I spent most of my life working on jets and cars/motorcycles as a career.

Want to get rid of ~80% of lubrication-related wear on your engine? Get an Accu-sump, or some other means of pressurizing the oil system before you start the engine.

Even cheap oil is good nowadays because refining technology has come so far from 50 years ago.

Another thing: high pressure pumps waste energy and cost mpgs and horsepower. Engines are now designed with low pressure high volume systems, with no negative effect on longevity.

Extended interval oil changes are a function of reducing the total cost of ownership of vehicles, and they give an advantage only to the manufacturers. Depending on how you run the engine, change more or less often. Personally, my race car gets changed every 5k on a 6 quart system (10W-60 full synthetic). My tow vehicle gets changed every 10k or when the reminder comes on, but it holds 2.5 gallons of oil (15W-40 Rotella or equivalent).

Use a service like Blackstone to do analysis, and they can tell you whether you can run longer on your oil changes.

:2cents:
 

brichter

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Here's a bit of insider oil info that will get everybody arguing.

I work for a Nascar team. We test oil in ways that you can't imagine. 9300 rpm, and the ability to cushion parts and prevent wear is more important than any other characteristic. All oil flows fine, cold starts fine, it's what it does to keep metal from rubbing that matters.

We would pay $10,000 per quart if a product helped us win. Price is no object when an engine costs half a million dollars.

We tested many oils, looking for a clear winner. A big takeaway is how great all oil these days performs. Walmart Supertech synthetic for $15 for 5 quarts is terrific stuff. None of us would have an oil related failure, ever, using any modern oil, Syn or dino, if we just change the stuff. These extended intervals, like 15,000 miles on my Mercedes, is a recipe for disaster. Oil is cheap, change it every 5-7,000 miles.

Back to the winner...we tested Amsoil, Royal Purple, Castrol, all of the boutique stuff. They were all good, but not measurably better than Supertech. Marketing and hype sells products on an emotional level.
The best oil with the best performance at any price is Mobile 1 off the shelf at Walmart. It goes into our Toyota engine, and we were the Nascar champs in 2017, second place in 2018 and 2019.


Yup yup yup and yup.:beer:
 

JonnyTahoe

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As long as its not ****** top off oil from 7/11 and you change it regularly at 4 or 7K for conventional, or 8-10K synthetic, it really doesnt matter which oil you use. its the same as the old Chevy/Ford debate.
Debate... We all know the clear winner.
 

BG1988

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anyone have experience with motorkote I hear it's bad for seals and what not but it has my interest since water "does not wash it away"
 
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James Ward

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OK, but what is the difference between a AC Delco PF63 and a PF63E ? looks like it is a little longer ? And I didn't want to start a useless "Yeah's mines better" sort of thing. Sorry I thought it was a harmless question.
 

JonnyTahoe

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OK, but what is the difference between a AC Delco PF63 and a PF63E ? looks like it is a little longer ? And I didn't want to start a useless "Yeah's mines better" sort of thing. Sorry I thought it was a harmless question.
Also a PF-61 and PF-61E I use to think they were the best filter but many other good filters on the market now.
 
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iamdub

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OK, but what is the difference between a AC Delco PF63 and a PF63E ? looks like it is a little longer ? And I didn't want to start a useless "Yeah's mines better" sort of thing. Sorry I thought it was a harmless question.

ACDelco's latest design, the "E-Core". It's made up of more easily recyclable components, therefore, is more eco-friendly.

From teh interwebz:
  • Is 6-12% smaller in size, while maintaining the same filtration media area, when compared to traditional filters.
  • Has 10 times more open area than a traditional metal core for improved flow
  • Has a non-metallic cartridge that can be crushed to remove oil and can then be used as an energy source
  • Compared to a traditional core, it has a lubricity gasket for reduced installation torque
  • Dual-flow concave baseplate with high lubricity gasket (if required).
  • Has a nylon core for higher strength and better flow characteristics when compared to a traditional metal core
  • No metallic components on “clean-side” of filter media, therefore eliminating possible metallic contamination
  • Synthetic end caps are ultrasonically welded to help prevent media blocked by adhesives used in traditional filters
  • Some ACDelco Gold parts may have formerly appeared as ACDelco Professional

The original E-Core design had some design flaws that scarred it's reputation. The design has been improved and it may be a great filter now. If you're buying one, look at the black nylon ("plastic") cage on the inside to see if the spacing between the ribs is smaller (more ribs) or larger. I couldn't find any good "old" or "new" pics online for comparison.
 

BG1988

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OK, but what is the difference between a AC Delco PF63 and a PF63E ? looks like it is a little longer ? And I didn't want to start a useless "Yeah's mines better" sort of thing. Sorry I thought it was a harmless question.
get the gold version much better
 
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George B

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Anyone run this? My 03 Burb liked it and rarely used more than 1/2 quart in 4000 miles. Not sure if my 13 Burb will like it.

image.jpg
 

Lt Belspur

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