Mild 6.0L Build Suggestions?

[ks03]

http://professional-products.com/secure/uploads/file/80032-90033 Damper Instructions.pdf

I think if you’re around .15” I’d put in the old bolt, torque it to 240, take it off and check where you’re at. I think Gm service info says to tighten to 37 plus 140 degrees, and 74 isn’t an option. However I’ve had new Gm bolts that would not stretch that far, and I think we called it enough when we struggled to get past 100 degrees, and checking with a torque wrench we were over 250 already

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

@ks03 OMFG haha I had not read that far yet in my build book. I don't think it has a lot of the fine details anyways. It assumes everything goes together perfecrly with no questions.

Wow 140 degrees. Damn its on tighter than my front 4wd hubs! Wow, but head def don't want it to come off.

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[1BADI5]

Crank bolt......I have an ARP because I was not going to buy a new bolt every damn time.

Lock the flywheel and take it to 240ftlbs and done

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

I don't have a torque wrench that goes to 240 haha Maybe I need to invest in one. My hubs I guestimated by over turning the wrench.

Suprised a lock would hold to 240... I have one but wow. Did you install it on the engine stand or in the truck? Afraid I might break a stand haha

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[ks03]

I’ve only done them in the vehicle, lots of potential to knock it over trying to do it on a stand.

I don’t know how critical this really is, or what the potential fallouts from incorrectly torquing this are, but I know lots get slapped back together with the old bolt and a couple impact burps.

 

[fasteddy]

I use an impact wrench. I use the old bolt to put it in then the new bolt when done.
And by done I mean in the car with the accessories on to make sure the belts lines up.
I think on this one position is much more important than torque.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Thanks everyone for the help. I have the pully installed. Just not the bolt. I will wait to torque bolt till motor is in truck.

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[Matthew Jeschke]

I'm getting ready to bolt the heads on. The book I bought on this tells high level details, but have some finer questions...

When I ordered the head bolts I bought GM Performance Parts head bolt kit. ARP was a bit too pricey for me (although my LT1 got ARP back in the day). The guy at summit sold me a tube of bolt lube. I used the lube (VERY LITTLE BIT) on my rod bolts. Do I need to do the same on these head bolts? I see the head bolts also have some red paste on the end of them (some sort of locking compound?). I don't recall what I did 20 yrs ago when I built my LT1

Should I use bolt lube on the head bolts before I torque down?

View attachment 274660

 

[fasteddy]

You didn't install ARP studs? OMG your head will lift under heavy boost!

No lube on head bolts. Those are twist bolts. One and done. The red stuff is locktight.

Won't be long now.....

Maybe TBSS manifold?

 

[iamdub]

@iamdub thanks! any thoughts on the lifter drag?

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I've never messed with those lifters. I'd measure the OD of the three lifters in question. It sounds like they may be slightly, as in hundredth thousandths larger and need to be more perfectly aligned before they slip in. The other thirteen are slightly smaller and are more forgiving. Just my guess.

 

[iamdub]

I'm getting ready to bolt the heads on. The book I bought on this tells high level details, but have some finer questions...

When I ordered the head bolts I bought GM Performance Parts head bolt kit. ARP was a bit too pricey for me (although my LT1 got ARP back in the day). The guy at summit sold me a tube of bolt lube. I used the lube (VERY LITTLE BIT) on my rod bolts. Do I need to do the same on these head bolts? I see the head bolts also have some red paste on the end of them (some sort of locking compound?). I don't recall what I did 20 yrs ago when I built my LT1

Should I use bolt lube on the head bolts before I torque down?

View attachment 274660

Don't lube the factory head bolts and, yes, they have a dry thread locker on the end of them. I use a protractor to make a template and put marks on the heads around each bolt hole, one at "zero", one at 90° then one at 70° from that 90° mark. I do the initial torque to 22 ft. lbs., mark the head of the bolt at the "zero" mark, turn the bolts so the mark on the head meets the 90° mark, then finally to the 70° mark. This is on a Gen4. Gen 3 has slightly different specs. https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/page-69#post-1455929

I do it this way because I put the heads on with the block mounted in the bay and the trans bell housing bolted up. Also, I torque the crank bolt with it on the stand. I use a breaker bar and socket and bounce my body weight on it, check the marks (I use the same method as the head bolts), turn it more, check the marks, etc. https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/page-56#post-1428052

My stand is a plain Hazard Fraught piece, but it's bolted to a heavy duty square frame with large casters: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/page-51#post-1425131

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

@iamdub good to know you also have the harbor freight stand. I got the $50 one. It seems okay but sometimes I wonder.

I have a torque to angle gauge but is kind of a POS. I better like marking off thr bolt head method. How I did it before the gauge. Thanks for tips!

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[Matthew Jeschke]

Bout had a heart attack. Went to put on odd side cylinder head. One of the bolts would not go in... I got to troubleshooting. Pulled out my bore scope. It was full of dirt and junk... Feeling a bit proud of myself for fixing it.

1. Sprayed carb cleaner in bolt holes.
2. Used a pipe brush to agitate dirt
3. cut notches in old headbolt. And threaded it in each hole.
4. Got a soda straw, attached it to shop vac, and sucked gabage out.

Took about an hour of fiddling around but got em super clean. Tightening rhe head bolts was a breeze

I used the sharpie method. No clue why I bout that dumb angle measure now haha... was way easier using shaprie.

Kind of excited and sad... I will be done with my build after a bit. It has been fun!

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[Matthew Jeschke]

You didn't install ARP studs? OMG your head will lift under heavy boost!

No lube on head bolts. Those are twist bolts. One and done. The red stuff is locktight.

Won't be long now.....

Maybe TBSS manifold?

I have cathdral port heads, and not suresure will it work with the old fuel rail? Will it work with those two? I thought that it was designed for rectangular port heads.

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[fasteddy]

TBSS is cathedral, Cathedral RULES! (LOL)
But I didn't look .....you have an 01....return style fuel, as opposed to returnless on 03+
So Nevermind
Can be converted but get your truck running.
No worries, not much gain, more with bigger cams...Like +25
Headers I think are more important to you. +TQ means +MPG
I'm doing headers next so they are there when the big motor arrives.
Hopefully I can get all the exhaust bolts out....I need to pray on that one.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

TBSS is cathedral, Cathedral RULES! (LOL)
But I didn't look .....you have an 01....return style fuel, as opposed to returnless on 03+
So Nevermind
Can be converted but get your truck running.
No worries, not much gain, more with bigger cams...Like +25
Headers I think are more important to you. +TQ means +MPG
I'm doing headers next so they are there when the big motor arrives.
Hopefully I can get all the exhaust bolts out....I need to pray on that one.

I had a snapped off exhaust bolt in one of the heads I bought Shop took care of it for me.

I bought the doorman exhaust bolts apparently they don't snap as easy. Although if I had it to do over again I would by studya for exhauat manifold.

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[1BADI5]

That's what I loved about going with the ARP head bolts, torque em per the specs, no angles to worry about

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

I measured all my pushrods. What a royal PITA. The LT1 I built didnt have these shaft mount style rockers. You could adjust each valve for preload very easily with just the rocker arm nut.

I have roger at vinci cams looking over the meausurements. I prefer to use one length pushrod. Maybe my measurements are off but that means some lifters will have very little preload.

Bit leary to order multiple lengths as honestly I don't feel confident in these little adjustable pushrods. I think would be very easy to get variations in measurements.

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[Matthew Jeschke]

oops posted to wrong thread.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

FMLx1000 More lifter hell.

I measured ALL my valves for zero lash point with rocker arms installed and lifters pumped up in heads. I'm hitting zero lash at 7.4649" Link HERE

I then add the 0.035" preload per Johnson Lifter Spec and getting a pushrod length of 7.495" (they come in increments of 5 thousands I believe).

Roger at Vinci cams says he's never sold a pushrod for a build like mine over 7.450". Although he's never used Johnson lifters before. Any ideas?

Notes:

My lifters are 2116LSR preload of 0.035" +/- 0.010" after speaking with Johnson Tech. I left Johnson Lifters a second message about this question but have not heard back yet.

By lifters pumped up I mean, I soaked in oil all day turning them several times to get air out. When I push down on lifter by hand with pushrod it's like a rock.

Head gasket is a Fel Pro per factory spec / LQ9 it compressed to 0.053"

Heads were resurfaced (I don't know how much) and all valves were ground.