Lowest static GM suv

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Doug118

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Front suspension consists of stock length strut assembly flipped to the bottom of the control arm plus 1/2” spacers between arm and strut. Also has 2” drop spindles

Rear is 6” drop springs, C-notch, and ~1000lbs of audio equipment in the cargo area. Also has Spohn panhard bar

Front inner fenders have been cut out today to make room for 26’s. Also had to cut part of the firewall to allow for turning full lock

With factory 20’s and 255/50/20 tires the drop measures 7/10. It rubbed pretty bad up front on dips
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Doug118

Doug118

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Now for the fun part. Today I got to cutting out the front fenders. I thought I could get away with minor trimming but the more I cut, the more I found spots where the tire hit. Ran out of time today because I didn’t expect to go this far but the front will have tubs hopefully by the end of the week
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Doug118

Doug118

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Should just go ahead and bag it.:cool:

I’ve never ran into a case where I had wished it was bagged. It rides extremely smooth and it makes it over speed bumps so at this point bags would be a waste of money
 
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Doug118

Doug118

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Remembered to get a picture of the strut mounted from the bottom of the control arm and what the wheel looks like from the engine bay. It looks extremely close from that angle but it has 3-4” of room between the tire and the inner fender cut
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colt45hoe

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Not a waste when done right like my Silverado. ;)

bro thats a nasty lookin ride there! love it!

got the 26’s bolted up today. Didn’t think they’d rub in the rear but they do so I have to trim the fender lip back about 1/4”

looks sharp, i thought my escalade was low on 24s untill you posted this lol badass! i think it would be a no go in california tho these roads suck lol keep on posting bro!
 

the_tool_man

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So the weight of the front is supported by two bolts in tension at each strut? Am I seeing that right? Not criticizing, just trying to learn how this is done.
 

Rocket Man

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So the weight of the front is supported by two bolts in tension at each strut? Am I seeing that right? Not criticizing, just trying to learn how this is done.
It’s been done quite a bit, just have to use grade 8 bolts or better.
 

iamdub

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So the weight of the front is supported by two bolts in tension at each strut? Am I seeing that right? Not criticizing, just trying to learn how this is done.

Correct. Rough Country sells a 2" drop kit that consists of four high-grade bolts and nuts (I forget the exact grade, but it's stronger than Grade 8) and a thin spacer (to achieve the full 2" drop). A big company such as RC wouldn't risk their reputation over a $40 drop kit. Still, the thought is a bit unsettling to me. But. I can't say I've ever heard of any failures resulting from this. Doug's running his drop and Ken (@kbuskill) has or had his for a while.
 
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Doug118

Doug118

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They are both correct. I have a post on Facebook and 40+ people have done the same thing for years with no issues. I went all out and bought grade 12.9 nuts and bolts. Cost me $40 for 4 nuts and bolts but it’s worth the peace of mind knowing the bolts will NEVER fail. I used knurled nuts so they dig into the control arm pretty good and also used red loctite
 
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Doug118

Doug118

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Let me tell you, flipping the strut made an insane difference on how the truck rode. I thought it rode decent for the drop before I changed it up but now that the strut is back to stock length with the stock spring, it rides like a dream
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kbuskill

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Correct. Rough Country sells a 2" drop kit that consists of four high-grade bolts and nuts (I forget the exact grade, but it's stronger than Grade 8) and a thin spacer (to achieve the full 2" drop). A big company such as RC wouldn't risk their reputation over a $40 drop kit. Still, the thought is a bit unsettling to me. But. I can't say I've ever heard of any failures resulting from this. Doug's running his drop and Ken (@kbuskill) has or had his for a while.

RC's kit uses grade 9 bolts and nuts, just for the record.
 

iamdub

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Let me tell you, flipping the strut made an insane difference on how the truck rode. I thought it rode decent for the drop before I changed it up but now that the strut is back to stock length with the stock spring, it rides like a dreamView attachment 346374

How was it dropped before you flipped the strut? What components?
 
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Doug118

Doug118

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How was it dropped before you flipped the strut? What components?

Belltech street performance struts with no rings (~3” drop) plus the 2” drop spindles. The original drop setup has always been a mystery since day 1. The drop components used didn’t match up to the amount the truck was actually lowered. My original 7/10 total measurement was based off of factory ground to fender measurements
 

iamdub

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Belltech street performance struts with no rings (~3” drop) plus the 2” drop spindles. The original drop setup has always been a mystery since day 1. The drop components used didn’t match up to the amount the truck was actually lowered. My original 7/10 total measurement was based off of factory ground to fender measurements

So you're now on stock struts but mounted under the arm?

I have the BT 25003 struts and want a little more drop. The 25003 are supposed to be 0"-2" drop. I was under the impression that the 25004 was a 3" drop, so I now have those on standby. But, they measure from the lower mount to the welded ring where the spring perch sits the same as the 25003. If new stock struts (AutoRide or non-AR) would ride better, then I'll get those and mount em under. I have the RC bolt kit already.
 
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Doug118

Doug118

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So you're now on stock struts but mounted under the arm?

I have the BT 25003 struts and want a little more drop. The 25003 are supposed to be 0"-2" drop. I was under the impression that the 25004 was a 3" drop, so I now have those on standby. But, they measure from the lower mount to the welded ring where the spring perch sits the same as the 25003. If new stock struts (AutoRide or non-AR) would ride better, then I'll get those and mount em under. I have the RC bolt kit already.

nope I actually run the 25004 struts with all the included rings. I also run a 1/2” spacer between the strut and bottom of the control arm for another 1/2” drop

what’s super nice about putting the strut underneath is the fact that if you want to adjust the height, all you have to do is loosen the bolts and slip a spacer in there (or remove one) and not have to take apart the entire strut assembly
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