Door sag

[alpinecrick]

My bad, I thought you were referring to the hinges rather than the striker.

 

[alpinecrick]

Just to summarize for everyone everything is tight with my new bushings. bushings to hinges and pins to bushings its all legit now but the sag is still there. Possible bent hinges is what i'm thinking.......

Either the hinges are bent or the metal in the cab/A pillar or the door itself is slightly bent. A floorjack adjustment may be worth a try. Go slowly....

I like those bushing you made, they look quite.....robust. Remember, the originals lasted for 100k plus miles before giving out, so don't be to critical of the OEM bushings.

 

[Squirrelsmith]

Either the hinges are bent or the metal in the cab/A pillar or the door itself is slightly bent. A floorjack adjustment may be worth a try. Go slowly....

I like those bushing you made, they look quite.....robust. Remember, the originals lasted for 100k plus miles before giving out, so don't be to critical of the OEM bushings.

i suspect the oem bushings and the doorman replacements are not the same thing... just a hunch. The ones I made you can beat on with a hammer and the bend but don't crack. So that makes me feel ok about the jacking.

I think that my door sagging and my door not sealing are 2 different problems. When the door is closed it's not sagging so why is it leaking? The drivers door sags just the same but it seals and shuts much easier.

 

[Squirrelsmith]

I suspect my door may be a little flattened out if you will thus not quite sealing at the top, not curving correctly with the car

 

[PG01]

I suspect my door may be a little flattened out if you will thus not quite sealing at the top, not curving correctly with the car

Roll down window hold middle of door and pull on top of window frame, it’ll bend.

 

[96-2D-Hoe]

Engine hoist makes the job a LOT easier.......

Now my decision is whether I should buy the 2 ton hoist and also replace the 22yo engine mounts. I have so many jobs I want to do and so little time to do them.

 

[Squirrelsmith]

Roll down window hold middle of door and pull on top of window frame, it’ll bend.

Thats exactly what i was thinking. It will be hard to gauge how much since everything looks fine but that has to be what it is. Just try a little and wait for rain i guess

 

[liquify33]

FWIW I also got some “tightening” action on the door by putting some foam tape on the striker where the door meets. Maybe you could try similar across from the leaky section of weatherstripping. Maybe put a strip lower than the factory’s weatherstrip on the truck side and kinda push it out if that makes sense.

They’re redoing the roads around our neighborhood, right now it’s worse than the lunar surface. My door was rattling and sounded like it was about to shake open at 15mph.

Snug as a big until that tape wears out.

 

[Squirrelsmith]

FWIW I also got some “tightening” action on the door by putting some foam tape on the striker where the door meets. Maybe you could try similar across from the leaky section of weatherstripping. Maybe put a strip lower than the factory’s weatherstrip on the truck side and kinda push it out if that makes sense.

They’re redoing the roads around our neighborhood, right now it’s worse than the lunar surface. My door was rattling and sounded like it was about to shake open at 15mph.

Snug as a big until that tape wears out.

I'll do something like that if i can't get it right

 

[Squirrelsmith]

Thats exactly what i was thinking. It will be hard to gauge how much since everything looks fine but that has to be what it is. Just try a little and wait for rain i guess

tried this i'm waiting for some rain

 

[Squirrelsmith]

I'm down to just a few drips, there is a light at the end of the tunnel. I think my striker is so worn down that it is a part of the problem as well. going to replace that and see if that does anything for me

 

[homesick]

I'm down to just a few drips, there is a light at the end of the tunnel. I think my striker is so worn down that it is a part of the problem as well. going to replace that and see if that does anything for me

LOL It might be easier to move to Arizona.

joe

 

[Squirrelsmith]

LOL It might be easier to move to Arizona.

joe

It will still whistle haha!

 

[Squirrelsmith]

I replaced the striker pin and im undecided if it has done anything. The door still shuts like crap i think i need to replace the latch mechanism that grabs the striker but its kind of costly. I also have no idea if it would do anything for my leak

 

[liquify33]

Did you do the roller pin when you did the bushings?

 

[Squirrelsmith]

Did you do the roller pin when you did the bushings?

no I did not

 

[liquify33]

no I did not

Is it straight?
Both of mine were factory and bent to heck. Driver was about 40 degrees bent where the roller connects to the gear on the door.

In hindsight I should have done the bushings also, it would have made that job MUCH easier with the door off/loose

 

[Squirrelsmith]

Is it straight?
Both of mine were factory and bent to heck. Driver was about 40 degrees bent where the roller connects to the gear on the door.

In hindsight I should have done the bushings also, it would have made that job MUCH easier with the door off/loose

visually they are straight

 

[Sean James]

When I rolled mine while 4-wheelin, it worked perfect while upside-down. We flipped it over and the doors were sagging again. GM's door hinges, like their 4L60's are a weak link.

 

[alpinecrick]

When I rolled mine while 4-wheelin, it worked perfect while upside-down. We flipped it over and the doors were sagging again. GM's door hinges, like their 4L60's are a weak link.

Just put wheels on your roof, drive upside down and your doors won't sag........

Factory 4L60E's last roughly 150k, depending on maintenance, use, and abuse. That's 50% longer than most TH350's back in the day that the 4L60 is based on.

The problem seems to be a lot of these rebuilds don't seem to last very long at all--somebody ain't doing something right.

The trick to the 4L60E's is to keep the fluid red and as cool as possible. That means cutting the recommended service interval in half--at least--and making sure it has an adequate trans cooler. The coolers that came on the GMT 400's (many 2wd pickups, vans, Tahoes, etc, did not come with a cooler) are the stacked plate design and are actually pretty good. But if the vehicle tows or drives in the mountains a bigger cooler is a good idea.

Buying a trans pan with a drain plug, or installing a drain plug, and draining 3 qts (shallow pan) or 4.5 qts (deep pan) of ATF every 10K or so goes a long way towards keeping the fluid red.