Brake upgrade experts: questions

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Marky Dissod

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Well stock 5 spoke 20” rims do not clear. They hit the caliper on the hub part of the rim. The back of the spokes might hit if the hub part didn’t hit first. Pictures below.
View attachment 469124 View attachment 469128 View attachment 469127
About time for an instructional diagram showing what excess caliper 'fat' can be safely shaved away to make them compatible with many more wheels.
Obviously not everyone will want or be easily able to shave their calipers, but this info is long overdue.
 

mikez71

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That is a bummer.. It's fairly close..
I wouldn't want to grind there, but if you had to, you could pop the piston out to measure wall thickness.

I'd be inclined to get wheel spacers even though I don't like them.. 6mm might do it?

Well that's one good reason to stick with stock, if you intend to keep stock wheels.
I'm still planning this upgrade, but I have '23 wheels, so hoping no clearance issues..
 

Marky Dissod

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174957995_75d4b8a84247a9bb1d8c194e79fd607c8c223e2e.jpg

Look what I found. Thanks & credit go to @strutaeng.
Wonder if I can make these work with these 17" wheels
8131-3-scaled.jpg
 

mikez71

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Those wheels are still used on the new silverado's, so I'm thinking they should work.
 

Fless

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Wonder if I can make these work with these 17" wheels
View attachment 469165

Wonder what the offset is on these wheels.
 

mikez71

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17x8 - 24 offset.
Guess my wheels are '21 model...
IMG_0663.jpeg


I would not assume other wheels with that offset will work forsure, because the steelies have such a thin profile, aluminum will be thicker.

I have some 2018-19 aluminum wheels that are 18x8.5 - 24 offset.. hoping those will fit...
 
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ToysRUs

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mikez71

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His look like 5 spoke to me.

It would be nice if someone measured the mounted depth difference, then we could check how much clearance we have with stock brakes and wheels..
and know if they will fit or not..
 

ToysRUs

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His look like 5 spoke to me.

It would be nice if someone measured the mounted depth difference, then we could check how much clearance we have with stock brakes and wheels..
and know if they will fit or not..
Just digital calipers and a new caliper. I've been thinking of ordering one caliper to test. (So if I have to return it then it will be easier or clamp it in the mill and cut away.) I could measure it against the stock 2017 one. I would really hate to have to mill off the outside support bar. Then again I've thrown away more than $100 testing stuff before that didn't work out.:rolleyes:
 

mikez71

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I'm sure I will try that route, so if no-one measures by then, I will get measurements - eventually.

I did just buy some cheap digital calipers. Works great and beats my old broken teeth calipers..
I spent about $22 on amazon.. (short 6") (That's paying an extra $2.99 to see if they would deliver it same day, they did!)


Wondering why I waited so long.. stainless and IP54 rated, even came with two extra 2032 batteries..
 

ToysRUs

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I'm sure I will try that route, so if no-one measures by then, I will get measurements - eventually.

I did just buy some cheap digital calipers. Works great and beats my old broken teeth calipers..
I spent about $22 on amazon.. (short 6") (That's paying an extra $2.99 to see if they would deliver it same day, they did!)


Wondering why I waited so long.. stainless and IP54 rated, even came with two extra 2032 batteries..
Yeah, the Amazonian ones work fine for most things. As long as you don't need thou or tenths of thou accuracy.
We could also use a true centering measurement of the "washer" that goes in between the caliper and the bracket. Don't you think?
 
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mikez71

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Right, the washer will take off ADD a little height, without washer should give you a little margin for error.. (Lazy man's reasoning :p)
(Oops! Glad I saw NoNamesLeft's measurements below. I was backwards on the spacers!)

If I had expensive measuring calipers, I would still want the amazon one for a backup/beater.
It's like a cheap insurance policy, for $20 get a whole 'nother tool.
But now that I have this cheap one, I may never get an expensive one..
I think that's why I held off for so long, figuring I want some NICE precision tools..
But at $20, there's no reason to deprive yourself, and you can still afford the nice one later. Don't let perfect get in the way of good!
 
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ToysRUs

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Right, the washer will take off a little height, without washer should give you a little margin for error.. (Lazy man's reasoning :p)

If I had expensive measuring calipers, I would still want the amazon one for a backup/beater.
It's like a cheap insurance policy, for $20 get a whole 'nother tool.
But now that I have this cheap one, I may never get an expensive one..
I think that's why I held off for so long, figuring I want some NICE precision tools..
But at $20, there's no reason to deprive yourself, and you can still afford the nice one later. Don't let perfect get in the way of good!
Never fear, I have Amazon ones and I have Starrett's. Old Starrett's.
 
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NoNamesLeft

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5 spoke 20" rim: https://www.detroitwheelandtire.com...pvd-bright-chrome-hol-5308-bright-pvd-sw.html

Here is a picture showing 1-7/16” from the rotor face to the caliper. Consider that a rough measurement which is affected by the shims used to space the caliper out. The picture was taken with 0.125” thick washers. Probably 0.15” thickness would have been ideal. And keep in mind the stock wheel hit the side of the caliper which would be difficult to measure.
rotor face to caliper.JPG

Everything cleared with three 14mm flat washers between the wheel and rotor (just about 0.3”) so a 1/4 spacer may be enough to work. I actually plasma cut the hats off old front rotors and was going to machine them down for spacers, but didn’t like that the wheel would no longer be hub centric so nixed the spacer idea.

Before taking it all apart for the heck of it I tried a 17" aluminum rim from a 2011 Silverado 1500 and it was not even close to fitting. I don't like 20" rims but the tires have too much left to waste so the stock brakes are on until the tires wear out. :frown: Braking is better with new stock stuff all around, but it is still the lamest of all the current vehicles we own.
 

mikez71

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Here is a picture showing 1-7/16” from the rotor face to the caliper. Consider that a rough measurement which is affected by the shims used to space the caliper out. The picture was taken with 0.125” thick washers. Probably 0.15” thickness would have been ideal. And keep in mind the stock wheel hit the side of the caliper which would be difficult to measure.
View attachment 469449

Everything cleared with three 14mm flat washers between the wheel and rotor (just about 0.3”) so a 1/4 spacer may be enough to work. I actually plasma cut the hats off old front rotors and was going to machine them down for spacers, but didn’t like that the wheel would no longer be hub centric so nixed the spacer idea.
Sorry to hear about the hangup, thanks for taking measurements and sharing the info!

They do have hubcentric spacers for about $45 a pair..
Here's some 10mm thick ones, which must be thicker than 3 washers... https://www.ebay.com/itm/135332149458
 

MarvinVR

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You probably have never felt the stock braking system performing like it was intended
with the pads/rotors NOT wearing correctly. Someone prob did a pad slap.. Your
slider pins in the caliper bracket are seized up for sure...
I just couldn't swallow the price of upgrading the whole system a few years ago..
So I put on the Power Stop Upgraded Tow pads and rotors.. Only a bit more $$
than stock replacement stuff. I DID notice a difference for sure. And they are holding up
4 years later.
I almost have to assume that you'll need new slider brackets which are easily avail
at your local parts store. That way you can get good pricing off Summit or RA.
I wouldn't trust amazon for "real genuine" parts anymore.
I've looked at the ACDelco line of performance rotors and pad too. They look
to be quality items as well
I have 6 firebirds, a cavalier, an impala, a ford diesel super duty and a ford fusion. I went to powerstop for replacements on all and saved a TON (a long ton too) of clams plus they out perform the GM stuff. I was goimng through pads and rotors in my one ton diesel about 18K to 25K pulling stuff. The power stop rotors, calipers and pads on it now are at 35K and hardly look used. Plain rotors are fine--drilled and slotted is hype. Slotted does give a bit of advantage in certain conditions--drilled weakens the rotor and they can break. On shor term use like Brembos for racing, the holes are good. Otherwise you are paying superior fee for inferior product. You can do a car for under 600 for all four sides
 

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