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OP
The front cover was just trash. Corroded and pitted, just could not get it clean. eBay to the rescue. $25 shipped.
6.2L Winter Refresh
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Last pic for today. New Melling phaser.
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It is confirmed. The cam shaft was designed to use the new style phaser.
I can get the numbers to match the cam card with the new phaser.
With the old style phaser everything is 10 degrees advanced. Makes sense as it has 10 degrees more advance built in.
Hate to admit it but i made a mistake.
With the struggle i was having with the cam phaser yesterday i messed up the new cam phaser making it unusable.
Today trying to retard the cam i could only slightly get it to retard.
When i removed it i found the cam pin had dented the back making it unmovable. Sad, now i gotta wait till the end of the month to order a new one
I can get the numbers to match the cam card with the new phaser.
With the old style phaser everything is 10 degrees advanced. Makes sense as it has 10 degrees more advance built in.
Hate to admit it but i made a mistake.
With the struggle i was having with the cam phaser yesterday i messed up the new cam phaser making it unusable.
Today trying to retard the cam i could only slightly get it to retard.
When i removed it i found the cam pin had dented the back making it unmovable. Sad, now i gotta wait till the end of the month to order a new one
I took to the lathe and made a "cam holding tool" that makes it easy to get that installed correctly. You can use a long bolt of the correct threads as well, if you can find one. Great for installing/removing cam as well as fitting the gear and holding it with the pin engaged....
OP
OP
That tool may have helped. Never had one fight me like this one did but i suppose it was self inflicted. The cam pin also has a fairly long taper.
Without lifters holding the cam in place it would not stay in position. My genius idea was to hold the cam from the back so i would get the gear lined up and that just made it harder now that i think about it.
I could feel the cam pin hitting what i thought was the hole but it was not and must have turned slightly again as i was screwing the bolt in. Result is ruined cam gear and the cam pin is pushed in to far and bottomed out.
That long taper on the pin i don't think will work. So i need to decide how im gonna get it out or take it someplace and let them deal with it before i make it worse.
Just shows how the simplest thing you have done a hundred times can turn into a cluster fk.
Without lifters holding the cam in place it would not stay in position. My genius idea was to hold the cam from the back so i would get the gear lined up and that just made it harder now that i think about it.
I could feel the cam pin hitting what i thought was the hole but it was not and must have turned slightly again as i was screwing the bolt in. Result is ruined cam gear and the cam pin is pushed in to far and bottomed out.
That long taper on the pin i don't think will work. So i need to decide how im gonna get it out or take it someplace and let them deal with it before i make it worse.
Just shows how the simplest thing you have done a hundred times can turn into a cluster fk.
The dowel pin in the end of the camshaft is replaceable.
Genuine GM part number 24575061 should be the correct fit for it. Before you pull the camshaft and run it down to a machine shop, grab the pin with a set of vice grips as tight as you can with the vice grip handle upwards. Lightly tapping the back side of the handle should extract the pin. It might help to heat it up a little bit with a small pencil torch.
Genuine GM part number 24575061 should be the correct fit for it. Before you pull the camshaft and run it down to a machine shop, grab the pin with a set of vice grips as tight as you can with the vice grip handle upwards. Lightly tapping the back side of the handle should extract the pin. It might help to heat it up a little bit with a small pencil torch.
You can also use a thin flat pry bar to get behind the vise grip, but you have to protect the end of the camshaft with either a thin piece of sheet metal, or a thin piece of wood like the little wedges you buy at home Depot for leveling doors during installation.
PatDTN
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Don't heat the pin. That makes it expand. Consider nail puller pliers.
Wouldn't let me use the link.
Wouldn't let me use the link.
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I would not heat the pin. I would heat the cam up a little with a map gas torch a little.
I did try the vice grip tactic. Fail.
The problem in the long taper of the pin starts right at the cam so can not get a good grip on it and not a lot to work with anyway. The pin is sticking out .10 thou and it's all tapered, nothing flat.
I think my plan will be. Take my dremel and cut a small slot on each side of the pin. Take a pair of nail pulling pliers and grind the jaws down till i can fit the jaws into the little slots.
Heat the cam a little and try to pull it out. If it works great, if not, stop and take it to a machine shop tomorrow.
If i had more faith in my welding skills i would stick a rod to it so i could pull on it and try that.
I did try the vice grip tactic. Fail.
The problem in the long taper of the pin starts right at the cam so can not get a good grip on it and not a lot to work with anyway. The pin is sticking out .10 thou and it's all tapered, nothing flat.
I think my plan will be. Take my dremel and cut a small slot on each side of the pin. Take a pair of nail pulling pliers and grind the jaws down till i can fit the jaws into the little slots.
Heat the cam a little and try to pull it out. If it works great, if not, stop and take it to a machine shop tomorrow.
If i had more faith in my welding skills i would stick a rod to it so i could pull on it and try that.
PatDTN
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I can manage to stick a welding rod every time I try to welding with one. That might be the trick with a stick welder.
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I do have a stick welder but after 20 years of only using it once a year i have no welding skills left.
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My attempt failed. Going to the machine shop tomorrow morning.
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Well $50 bucks later and the pin is removed. They did say it was not a hardened pin. It was good steel but not hardened.
I might be able to buy one tomorrow but if i can't the machine shop said they can make one for $20 but be a day or two.
I might be able to buy one tomorrow but if i can't the machine shop said they can make one for $20 but be a day or two.
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Ended up ordering a new phaser the other day.
Actually was able to buy a new cam pin from the GM dealership here. Thought there is no way they are going to have it but sure enough. $8.99.
Got the pin installed without a problem.
The hole for the pin is about .150 deeper then the pin is long. I do not like that so i cut the smooth end if a drill bit off and used it as a spacer so the pin can not go all the way into the hole again.
This time i put the rear cover on with a piece of cardboard behind the cam so it pushed the cam as far forward as possible and hold it there.
Still took a little missing with but finally got the phaser lined up and seated before i even put the bolt in it.
So now forward progress again.
I'm sure my micrometer set up is not the greatest, but it works pretty good.
Again checking the Intake and Exhaust centerline's they are right on what the cam card says.
I can not check anything else as the cam card says to check at the valve so with the centerline's being correct i have to assume the rest is correct but i never degreed a cam before just always installed dot to dot.
Actually was able to buy a new cam pin from the GM dealership here. Thought there is no way they are going to have it but sure enough. $8.99.
Got the pin installed without a problem.
The hole for the pin is about .150 deeper then the pin is long. I do not like that so i cut the smooth end if a drill bit off and used it as a spacer so the pin can not go all the way into the hole again.
This time i put the rear cover on with a piece of cardboard behind the cam so it pushed the cam as far forward as possible and hold it there.
Still took a little missing with but finally got the phaser lined up and seated before i even put the bolt in it.
So now forward progress again.
I'm sure my micrometer set up is not the greatest, but it works pretty good.
Again checking the Intake and Exhaust centerline's they are right on what the cam card says.
I can not check anything else as the cam card says to check at the valve so with the centerline's being correct i have to assume the rest is correct but i never degreed a cam before just always installed dot to dot.
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Im not installing a new oil pump.
The one im using is nearly new though. It is a Melling M365HV with about 3K miles on it. Inside looks new. I had it in this engine for the oil pressure band aid fix.
The one im using is nearly new though. It is a Melling M365HV with about 3K miles on it. Inside looks new. I had it in this engine for the oil pressure band aid fix.
West 1
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Progress, Looking good.
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Now for more machine shop shenanigans possibly?
The pistons are listed on the box to have .020 reduced compression height. So you would assume down the hole slightly even after having the block deck shaved a few thou for new gaskets.
Checking piston deck height, mine measure between .011 and .013 above the deck. GM spec is .013 above the deck so good there. So to me that means the machine shop took .020 off to compensate for the piston height being -.020
So not knowing this when i dropped the heads off to get the valves done i asked if it was a good idea to take .020 to make up for the reduced height pistons. They said yes so i had that done.
Stock compression is 10.5:1.
Using summit compression calculator im coming up with 11.58:1 using a .051 head gasket and 66.5 chamber volume.
That's a bit more than i would like. I think great for me would be 11.3:1 ish as i only run 93 fuel. I really don't want to run a thicker head gasket so i don't lose too much quench.
I guess tomorrow i need to figure out a way to CC my heads so i know for sure what they are.
The pistons are listed on the box to have .020 reduced compression height. So you would assume down the hole slightly even after having the block deck shaved a few thou for new gaskets.
Checking piston deck height, mine measure between .011 and .013 above the deck. GM spec is .013 above the deck so good there. So to me that means the machine shop took .020 off to compensate for the piston height being -.020
So not knowing this when i dropped the heads off to get the valves done i asked if it was a good idea to take .020 to make up for the reduced height pistons. They said yes so i had that done.
Stock compression is 10.5:1.
Using summit compression calculator im coming up with 11.58:1 using a .051 head gasket and 66.5 chamber volume.
That's a bit more than i would like. I think great for me would be 11.3:1 ish as i only run 93 fuel. I really don't want to run a thicker head gasket so i don't lose too much quench.
I guess tomorrow i need to figure out a way to CC my heads so i know for sure what they are.
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