What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

ordered a new original equipment idler pulley and a tensioner pulley I think mine is making a little noise it's slight but I have been hearing it for about a month
I had replaced the idler with one from the dealer about a year ago but I think they sold me the cheaper line, thought it might be the transmission but the noise is consistent when in park/neutral. Almost sounds like when you rub two ceramic plates together but very light.

Sam Harris said:

Glad you’re doing the ARP bolts. I had 3 broken as well, and replaced with ARP. Hoping I should never need to replace those.

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I just got my ARP 134-1102 bolts delivered today, and noticed they came with washers. I didn't think washers were needed/used on the manifolds. (08 Yukon XL Denali). Any thoughts?

gooffeyguy said:

Yeah, the first 2 rows have larger passages so when the fluid is cold it's thicker and won't flow into the rest of the smaller passages until it's warmer and thinner.

I wouldn't want, especially in summer, to wait till the fluid hits 180* before it starts to flow through the cooler

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Isn’t normal operating temperature 180F? If the aftermarket cooler and thermal valve are installed correctly, fluid will always flow into the radiator and will only flow into the new cooler when the temperature reaches the threshold. The point of the valve is to keep the fluid warmer when driving in cold air.

Glisella said:

I just got my ARP 134-1102 bolts delivered today, and noticed they came with washers. I didn't think washers were needed/used on the manifolds. (08 Yukon XL Denali). Any thoughts?

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Arp uses washers. They are beveled too so they only go on one way. Use the washers.

Doubeleive said:

I think the bypass works by allowing normal flow and then opens for the tru cool when the temp reaches the required temp to open the valve, looks like it works just like the thermostat they put on the 15+,

View attachment 253638

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Ah yeah. I remember now. I had one installed but removed it because it rarely freezes here and I didn’t like the extra 4 clamps it requires. I think I still have it.

Got my LED foglights in the mail today and put them in tonight.

One was really tight in the housing and I couldn't get it to snap in at first. I removed the housing by pressimg in on the tabs of those 3 round prongs and pushing it out through the front.

With the housing out I tried fitting the bulb, still tight and not snapping in. I remived the O-ring and it fit fine, so instead of just using bulb grease on the O-ring area of the bulb, I also applied some to the opening in the housing. Still a snug fit, but I got it to snap in and secure.

The other one installed with no problem.

They're the Alla Lighting 1919smd 2600 lumens I picked up for $20 shipped.

They're bright, white, 6000k and seem to work fine.

Sorry, no pics

https://www.ebay.com/itm/183730013786

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Doubeleive said:

I think the bypass works by allowing normal flow and then opens for the tru cool when the temp reaches the required temp to open the valve, looks like it works just like the thermostat they put on the 15+,

View attachment 253638

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I believe the bypass valve is intended for the cold weather climates, where you may not want to cool the trans when it’s 20 degrees outside (or colder..) I bought the bypass model since I don’t want to try cooling the trans when it’s already cold out. $0.02.

Glisella said:

I just got my ARP 134-1102 bolts delivered today, and noticed they came with washers. I didn't think washers were needed/used on the manifolds. (08 Yukon XL Denali). Any thoughts?

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Use em!

Sam Harris said:

I believe the bypass valve is intended for the cold weather climates, where you may not want to cool the trans when it’s 20 degrees outside (or colder..) I bought the bypass model since I don’t want to try cooling the trans when it’s already cold out. $0.02.

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yes it's for when it may be too cold out for the transmission to get up to a reasonable temperature, the question was whether it allowed fluid to flow normally or not.

Thinking about the wind noise difference I’m noticing on my 2012 vs. that of the 2015.

The 2015-2020 Escalades have an additional seal that goes all the way down the front of the rear door edge which seals the door gap. It was a noticeable improvement when input it on my 2015 Yukon.

I haven’t seen it on the GMT900 Escalades I’ve looked at. Looking at my 2012 Suburban, it seems like the upper seal (red arrow) could be extended all the way down (yellow arrows) for the same effect.




The seal is just press fit on the seam. Anybody know where to get longer lengths?


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