Good job thanks for sharing. Will keep at it in investigation. Don't want this floor to start rotting out for damn sure.
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
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That's under the drover's side hood hinge right? I was also hoping it wasn't a windshield leak.
mikez71
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Yep, plastic corner pieces pop right off. Center is a little more work with wipers and reaching that far into engine compartment, but not too bad.
I found the rubber back flood mats can keep the carpet, well mainly the padding under it from drying for way longer than I expected. finally had to pull the carpet back shove some towel under it and give it a few days.
hate water leaks!
hate water leaks!
New Avatar? I likes.
mikez71
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Yep 
hoping to get better pictures before long.
Got tired of the side view, thinking I need to raise the back 1" since I have the 2.5" lift spacers up front...
hoping to get better pictures before long. Got tired of the side view, thinking I need to raise the back 1" since I have the 2.5" lift spacers up front...
gooffeyguy
Tom
If you have a sunroof there are also drain tubes that run down each A-pillar (behind the little Bose speaker) that could also cause a wet floor if they get cracked or clogged.
Someone was doing a lousy job with the seam sealer for so many people to be having leaking issues.
mikez71
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Funny thing, my windshield guy told me he's heard it before from Tahoe (SUV?) owners, pickups not so much..
I flipped the struts back under the A arms with the Grade 9 hardware. No spacers. Dropped the front down another 2+". Camber is off but I used my home made toe plates to get her straight on toe. (Best thing I ever made, HUGE difference making fast toe adjustments.)
Test drive was very awesome. Also removed the front CV shafts and bolted the stub shafts back into the hubs. Previous fender measurement was 34" with the 2" drop spindles. Will see how she settles in and will work on the rear drop when time permits. Trying to make baby steps. I did some highway running and full lock turns in a parking lot at work. No rubbing so far. Will be ordering some shorter front sway bar links to bring that bar angle down a bit.
Test drive was very awesome. Also removed the front CV shafts and bolted the stub shafts back into the hubs. Previous fender measurement was 34" with the 2" drop spindles. Will see how she settles in and will work on the rear drop when time permits. Trying to make baby steps. I did some highway running and full lock turns in a parking lot at work. No rubbing so far. Will be ordering some shorter front sway bar links to bring that bar angle down a bit.
Ok, that catch can angle just freaked me the hell out. Looks like a muppet with googley eyes.
And my fat bald head good lawd...
Runfor5
Member
All - Appreciate the insight on the alternator incl. the potential for newer/higher amp rating ones! Ultimately however, given the potential upside should a problem arise during road tripping, I ended up going with the Carquest Premium 160-amp through Advance ($200 after the $10 core charge). Should I have kept my old one for $10? Lol yes, but alas, I did not :/
Installed the new one last weekend + replaced the AC belt (the prior one was starting to fray).
Installed the new one last weekend + replaced the AC belt (the prior one was starting to fray).
Runfor5
Member
My cooling system refresh parts have begun arriving! The Denso radiator came in today. Thermostat, thermostat housing, and radiator hoses earlier this week. Now I'm just waiting on the water pump and heater hoses (the auxiliary "inlet" and "outlet" if I recall, one of which is the metal 3-way/"T" fitting from Dorman labeled as an "OE Solution" since the factory "T" there is plastic I believe).
I'm sure this will be a 1-2 day job. I'm debating doing the oil and/or trans cooler lines at the same time (both have been in our basement for 2+ years now LOL) since I'll be disconnecting them from the old radiator anyhow... just spiraling already smh.
I'm sure this will be a 1-2 day job. I'm debating doing the oil and/or trans cooler lines at the same time (both have been in our basement for 2+ years now LOL) since I'll be disconnecting them from the old radiator anyhow... just spiraling already smh.
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Looking at front brake pads on RA and noticed Wagner has ones that have solid abutment clips and clips with square holes. Why the difference and what years?
For $10 I would have kept the old if it was still in working order.
Also, is it just the color of the pulleys or does the new one have a larger pulley?
from what I recall I thnk someone mentioned there being some difference with the brake pads in 2007-2008, might only be certain models, that had a different caliper with a smaller pad mount (i think)
and that regular pads would not fit.
it's posted on the forum somewhere probably in this thread but it's been a while since it came up
might not be related at all but that's all I remember about brakes being any different, some kind of one off thing
@swathdiver might know
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I got a new, 'not reman' alternator. The new pulley is a solid aluminum, so it looks larger. Not steel.
Good question. Came across the same issue while doing some research for the NNBS upgrade on my NBS, and I'm still wondering. Here's what RA shows for a 2010:
EDIT: Most hardware seems to be the solid clip; here's the difference (square hole on bottom pic):
Last edited:
on my previous brake pad change (on the 2012) I had bought some autozone pads, the clips that came with them would not stay on properly, I had to go back and pay another $10 for there generic clips, which fit and worked better, made no sense that they would sell different clips than what comes with the pads. Didn't really pay a lot of attention to the design difference but they worked and I re-used them for the most recent pad change, they were still like the upper picture but fit much better, like they were just slightly better quality.
