What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Doubeleive]

does black bear have settings for agm swap? they might be the best to do that having access to many different vehicles codes. one of them showing how gm handled agm would probably go a long way.

I still like that agm doesn't leave the trays and stuff eat up over time. that's worth the money in something like my c6

All you have to do to bypass RVC is tell the system something is on, when it really isn't so it stays in charge mode. mechman makes a module that lies to it and tells it everything is normal, you just have use a old 4 pin alternator instead because it doesn't send a digital signal to the 2 pin alternators.

 

[j91z28d1]

but that still only runs one voltage. that's what I run into in my vette. it's just not the right way to charge a agm. you will leave it under charged or over charge it. it's might work in practice but in theory it's not right. you need to bulk charge it at one voltage to replace what you've removed and then top it off at a different voltage and rate, all based on the internal Temps. most charts are at 25c which our car batteries hardly see.

I do wonder if different kinds of agm like or tolerated being treated differently. like a spiral wound optima vs a autoparts store agm. but no way of knowing.

 

[Doug118]

Welp boys I finally hit the jackpot after 3 years of searching. 6 piston PPV brakes at the junkyard. $278 total after tax for loaded calipers and rotors. They’ll have them pulled at some point next week

 

[the_tool_man]

What if it is printed as one piece? Without the flappy part?

Sorry I wasn't clear. While multi-material 3D printing is possible, I was thinking of a single non-flexible part that replaces the OEM one. It would have a narrower slot in it than the rigid portion of the OEM part, but wider than the rubber part, to conform to the hinge without the need for the rubber bit. It would probably have to be sanded and painted if it were done with conventional FDM printing (what 99% of consumer/prosumer grade printers use). I don't know anyone with an SLS printer, or other technologies. Another alternative would be to use a 3rd-party, like Xometry, who has access to lots of high-end printing technologies that generate class A surfaces right out of the printer. When I get time (don't hold your breath), I might pop one out and reverse engineer something I could send to them for quotation. I'd bet an hour's pay they'd be cheaper than $70 each.

 

[89Suburban]

Sorry I wasn't clear. While multi-material 3D printing is possible, I was thinking of a single non-flexible part that replaces the OEM one. It would have a narrower slot in it than the rigid portion of the OEM part, but wider than the rubber part, to conform to the hinge without the need for the rubber bit. It would probably have to be sanded and painted if it were done with conventional FDM printing (what 99% of consumer/prosumer grade printers use). I don't know anyone with an SLS printer, or other technologies. Another alternative would be to use a 3rd-party, like Xometry, who has access to lots of high-end printing technologies that generate class A surfaces right out of the printer. When I get time (don't hold your breath), I might pop one out and reverse engineer something I could send to them for quotation. I'd bet an hour's pay they'd be cheaper than $70 each.

I follow you.

 

[j91z28d1]

there's a guy that prints different car parts, mostly for older 3rd gens and stuff that's and discontinued, he somehow stumbled onto a setting that leaves a oem finish. that would. or. perfect for these.

like you said, the rubber isn't doing much. just a nice plastic part that fills the gap to look nicer.

I should found his email

 

[j91z28d1]

they do big stuff down to little stud like this.

1970-2002 Camaro/Firebird Visor Deletes

These small lightweight Visor Delete plates replace the sun visors on all 1970-2002 Camaros and Firebirds. This is very useful for track cars where you wouldn't want worn out visors falling all over the place. It also helps with visibility for tall drivers or can be used in place of worn out...

starbuckinnovativedesigns.com

 

[mikez71]

but that still only runs one voltage.

I believe it will still charge at the higher voltages, my impression was the RVC sensor tells the computer how much juice you are using to generate just enough juice to keep from charging your battery as often/much? Will be disconnecting mine. Keeping an eye on voltages and battery SOC in the Tech2.. Had seen as low as 70% SOC before.

 

[Doubeleive]

Sorry I wasn't clear. While multi-material 3D printing is possible, I was thinking of a single non-flexible part that replaces the OEM one. It would have a narrower slot in it than the rigid portion of the OEM part, but wider than the rubber part, to conform to the hinge without the need for the rubber bit. It would probably have to be sanded and painted if it were done with conventional FDM printing (what 99% of consumer/prosumer grade printers use). I don't know anyone with an SLS printer, or other technologies. Another alternative would be to use a 3rd-party, like Xometry, who has access to lots of high-end printing technologies that generate class A surfaces right out of the printer. When I get time (don't hold your breath), I might pop one out and reverse engineer something I could send to them for quotation. I'd bet an hour's pay they'd be cheaper than $70 each.

i'm sure there is a market for them at a less than $140 rapey price for set

 

[j91z28d1]

I believe it will still charge at the higher voltages, my impression was the RVC sensor tells the computer how much juice you are using to generate just enough juice to keep from charging your battery as often/much? Will be disconnecting mine. Keeping an eye on voltages and battery SOC in the Tech2.. Had seen as low as 70% SOC before.

so this is very very general and changes based on all kinds of things, but

The bulk charge voltage of a 12V AGM lead acid battery is typically 14.7 volts, and the float charge is typically 13.8 volts.

so when you say run the radio for a bit and then crank the truck, you need to replace what was used at the bulk charge voltage of 14.7 but once charged it will bake the battery if you keep the voltage at 14.7. but you also can't run your alt at 13.8 as it will never fully charge at that voltage and you'll run around at 70% soc which isn't good for long lift either.

now the hotter or colder the internal Temps, those voltages change and at what point the steps change.


it's one of those things that probably doesn't matter much in real use for most people. if you put one in and it lasts 5 years, no biggie that's all the lead/acid would probably do anyways, but if it doesn't, it's probably because it's over or under charged by your system that isn't adjusted right.

 

[Doug118]

For you guys trying to figure out voltage issues with these trucks, you can just unplug the current sensor and your voltage will always stay between 14-15v depending on the weather. Mine has been unplugged for 5 years with no issues

Or if you want a different solution that allows you to dial in exactly the voltage set point you want, this is what you need

Voltage PWM controller based on Internally Regulated Alternators PCM CONTROLLED 05+ GM vehicles

This is a voltage knob made for PCM controlled 05+ GM vehicles with the small rectangular 2 pin plug. It makes it plug and play with the GM 2 pin harness. There is no splicing of your stock plug required. These are generally in stock and ship within a couple of days of purchase. They work on up...

brand-x-electrical.myshopify.com

 

[Doug118]

Also, my truck has been charging between 16.0-16.4v with no issues on the stock electrical system for 2 years with nothing freaking out of burning anything up so don’t be afraid to charge a little on the higher side

 

[j91z28d1]

Also, my truck has been charging between 16.0-16.4v with no issues on the stock electrical system for 2 years with nothing freaking out of burning anything up so don’t be afraid to charge a little on the higher side

if you measured at the battery voltage or dash gauge? and do you have a standard flooded lead/acid or agm. they say the standard is better that being over charged than the agm. agm is said to handle it well at all.

again, just reading articles on how to properly take care of batteries. I once put a standard charger on a agm battery that was left on and down to like 6v. it took no charge and just got hot. a pulse tech recovery charger was able to bring it back and load tested well over night. that sent me down a battery rabbit hole. 5 years later I'm still not the same haha.

 

[mattbta]

Welp boys I finally hit the jackpot after 3 years of searching. 6 piston PPV brakes at the junkyard. $278 total after tax for loaded calipers and rotors. They’ll have them pulled at some point next weekView attachment 424882

Nice score. I paid that for two calipers with pads on ebay. I still need rotors.

 

[Doug118]

if you measured at the battery voltage or dash gauge? and do you have a standard flooded lead/acid or agm. they say the standard is better that being over charged than the agm. agm is said to handle it well at all.

again, just reading articles on how to properly take care of batteries. I once put a standard charger on a agm battery that was left on and down to like 6v. it took no charge and just got hot. a pulse tech recovery charger was able to bring it back and load tested well over night. that sent me down a battery rabbit hole. 5 years later I'm still not the same haha.

I have lithium in my truck. No front battery at all. Lead acid and agm would probably grenade if they were charged over 16v for an extended period of time. I measure in multiple places but I have the Escalade cluster in my suburban and it doesn’t have a volt meter but voltage at the ECU is usually a little lower than the voltage at the back of the alt

The battery probably got hot because the charger tried hitting it with the full amperage. Any battery at 6v will need a charger that will start at a low amperage and slowly get higher as the voltage comes up.

 

[Doubeleive]

Also, my truck has been charging between 16.0-16.4v with no issues on the stock electrical system for 2 years with nothing freaking out of burning anything up so don’t be afraid to charge a little on the higher side

My mechman will put out 15.5 easily, but that's not all the time. Had a loose wire once on my amp and it was making it do 16v lol
The audio shop guy was like "that's too much" nah......24v+ yes

 

[j91z28d1]

I have lithium in my truck. No front battery at all. Lead acid and agm would probably grenade if they were charged over 16v for an extended period of time. I measure in multiple places but I have the Escalade cluster in my suburban and it doesn’t have a volt meter but voltage at the ECU is usually a little lower than the voltage at the back of the alt

The battery probably got hot because the charger tried hitting it with the full amperage. Any battery at 6v will need a charger that will start at a low amperage and slowly get higher as the voltage comes up.

yeah, I was talking about oem application. running 16v wouldn't be good for either, but my guess is a flooded lead acid would accept it longer than a agm.(while seeping acid all over your truck) it would shorten the life of either. I only ask about where you saw 16 because at the battery is all the battery cares about. dash can read different. mine seems to round randomly when I checked. so 14v on dash is only 13 something at battery but my tech 2 will show closer to battery within a few tenths. I'm not powering anything from my battery, so just not replacing it is all I'm looking for. my truck literally doesn't even have an alternator haha but my car has been switched from a internally regulated low amp one to a pwm 220amp from a newer truck like these have stock. I just don't have the ecm to run a program for it.

I'm all over the map haha. Just sharing what I've read about why a agm might not be lasting very long in his truck.

what lithium are you running? some diy setup or a brand name. as I understand lifepo4, running 16v on a 4 cell is pushing it pretty hard. they can handle 4.2v each cell but they don't like it much like li-on. 3.65v they are much happier at.

 

[Fast_AT4]

@Fast_AT4 this something you may be capable of doing?

...what are we talking about here....looked back 2 pages and (glanced over them to be honest)....and didnt note anything. #ImBlindMaybe

good question I don't recall if it even ever touches anything, but I would guess it has to do with heat, all plastic might deform like a vinyl record in the sun

I 3d printed a fender badge for my F250 in PLA+ and had it in the Florida sun for 3 years w/o any deforming.

 

[Doubeleive]

...what are we talking about here....looked back 2 pages and (glanced over them to be honest)....and didnt note anything. #ImBlindMaybe


I 3d printed a fender badge for my F250 in PLA+ and had it in the Florida sun for 3 years w/o any deforming.

If I find my old one's I will send them to you to scan or whatever but I might have tossed them
and they are end caps for the hood hinges where the wiper motor shroud is on the gmt900's

 

[89Suburban]

...what are we talking about here....looked back 2 pages and (glanced over them to be honest)....and didnt note anything. #ImBlindMaybe


I 3d printed a fender badge for my F250 in PLA+ and had it in the Florida sun for 3 years w/o any deforming.

If I find my old one's I will send them to you to scan or whatever but I might have tossed them
and they are end caps for the hood hinges where the wiper motor shroud is on the gmt900's

Deez things.