What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Airman68]

I think that 20 is wishful thinking for the most part. I’ve seen 15 on the highway, but usually it’s 13.

Considering what others have said, I'll take the 16 mpg highway. That said, most of my driving is shorter trips so it's probably 13-15 depending.

 

[PG01]

Earl change yesterday and general look over of the undercarriage…. SMH…. Can’t stand NY and their salty, briny, over taxed and over tolled pothole infested roads.
Few more years..I just keep reminding myself, a few more years.

 

[Geotrash]

Next up: that Cold Case radiator I installed in the 2012 three years ago appears to be leaking but I can't figure out from where. I stupidly used worm drive hose clamps on the upper and lower radiator hoses and the one on the lower hose at the radiator keeps requiring tightening. And there is coolant puddling on the crossmember right beneath it. But yesterday it was snug and I still lost a pint of coolant with fresh puddling going on so it's clearly leaking from somewhere else as well. It's losing enough that it requires topping off before every trip - most of which are towing.

So I said f-it and ordered a new Denso radiator from Rock Auto with the 1-1/4" core along with the K5L fans and shroud because I had to modify the original to accommodate the Cold Case. These plus some other odds and ends and I ended up with a $600 bill with shipping because they came from 3 different warehouses. Se la vie. It's only money and I keep a savings account for car stuff.

It's annoying the pricey aluminum radiators for these appear to be a scam. To my knowledge at least half a dozen guys here who bought them had leaks within 2 years. I thought I had been lucky and escaped the poor quality, but it appears not.

 

[PG01]

Next up: that Cold Case radiator I installed in the 2012 three years ago appears to be leaking but I can't figure out from where. I stupidly used worm drive hose clamps on the upper and lower radiator hoses and the one on the lower hose at the radiator keeps requiring tightening. And there is coolant puddling on the crossmember right beneath it. But yesterday it was snug and I still lost a pint of coolant with fresh puddling going on so it's clearly leaking from somewhere else as well. It's losing enough that it requires topping off before every trip - most of which are towing.

So I said f-it and ordered a new Denso radiator from Rock Auto with the 1-1/4" core along with the K5L fans and shroud because I had to modify the original to accommodate the Cold Case. These plus some other odds and ends and I ended up with a $600 bill with shipping because they came from 3 different warehouses. Se la vie. It's only money and I keep a savings account for car stuff.

It's annoying the pricey aluminum radiators for these appear to be a scam. To my knowledge at least half a dozen guys here who bought them had leaks within 2 years. I thought I had been lucky and escaped the poor quality, but it appears not.

Damn, that is annoying.
Since new my ‘13 hoe has had a leak, just enough for me to top off the overflo once a year. Ive never had any coolant on the ground but i can see it on the crossmember and frame rail. I brought it in for warranty at some where between a year and 2 years old because the drivers rear shock was leaking and i told them about the radiator and of course they ‘didn’t find anything’
Thats coming soon, radiator and all new hoses, maybe even a waterpump….11 years old and 105k, i guess i should just stop being lazy and just do it..

 

[the_tool_man]

If I remember right, there is a pretty big gap without the rubber pieces in there.
I would rather have them in there then not have them there.
They would keep out leaves and other junk from falling back in there and needing to get pulled out.

Mine are rotted, too. I'm not happy to pay $140 to replace them. The gap seems unnecessarily large for the hood hinge to pass through. I wonder if someone could 3D print replacements with a smaller opening. I may check into that.

 

[j91z28d1]

Our stock ‘07 will get 17.5 on country roads at a steady 55. That’s as good as it gets but it’s repeatable.

55 speed limits really was the proper speed for fuel efficiency. I can see it in both my cars that have real time load readings. either the little volt has battery current display or the yukon battery app and instant fuel mileage. between 55-60 is where both like steady state cruise. the volt you can definitely see when you're in a pack of traffic the aero helps quite a bit compared to being in your own. yukon I can't really tell, the seems to get some buffeting in traffic.

I just happened to be in a long flat road 2 days ago in the yukon and noticed at 55 is was cruising along happily at 32mpg. not that I could ever take a road trip at that speed lol. would take days to get anywhere. good thing gas is still relatively cheap

 

[j91z28d1]

Put a new conventional battery in the ‘07. Had some points to use so I bought a Duralast Gold from AutoZone. Some of you may recall that I’ve been having trouble with the climate control resetting at night and low battery voltage on the AGM battery has been the culprit. Installed the new battery and the engine turns over noticeably faster. We’ll see how it is in the morning, but the old AGM was only 4 years old.

I've spent some time recently trying to figure out what voltage to run a agm battery at and man it's a mess.

I think you guys have the best chance of running them correctly with adjustment being able to be made to the battery settings with hpt. I don't remember his exact screen name but z71 something, I think was on to the settings.

I'm using one in the c6. it has no ecm voltage adjustments, I've switched to a newer pwm alt but I only have one sitting for voltage control and constant voltage just ain't right. a afm needs to be charged 2 or 3 steps to be fully charged and last a long time. what the voltage is at the steps is based on internal battery Temps. either by sensor or gm doing a bunch of crazy math's.

my volt runs a agm factory, but hpt doesn't define the voltage charge settings. so that's annoying, the yukon, hpt doesn't define the voltage settings to be adjusted on it, it came with a standard lead/acid, but I've changed to agm. I'm sure it needs a different charge settings, even thou it's not a cranking battery, so it probably won't give me the issue yours has. but still I know it's shortening it's life.



blah. I'm half temped to buy or build lithium batteries for everything I own except the volt. the last battery lasted 8 years in it, and it's now in the corvette as a temp battery because the Optima I bought it with finally gave up.

 

[Sparksalot]

I've spent some time recently trying to figure out what voltage to run a agm battery at and man it's a mess.

I think you guys have the best chance of running them correctly with adjustment being able to be made to the battery settings with hpt. I don't remember his exact screen name but z71 something, I think was on to the settings.

I'm using one in the c6. it has no ecm voltage adjustments, I've switched to a newer pwm alt but I only have one sitting for voltage control and constant voltage just ain't right. a afm needs to be charged 2 or 3 steps to be fully charged and last a long time. what the voltage is at the steps is based on internal battery Temps. either by sensor or gm doing a bunch of crazy math's.

my volt runs a agm factory, but hpt doesn't define the voltage charge settings. so that's annoying, the yukon, hpt doesn't define the voltage settings to be adjusted on it, it came with a standard lead/acid, but I've changed to agm. I'm sure it needs a different charge settings, even thou it's not a cranking battery, so it probably won't give me the issue yours has. but still I know it's shortening it's life.



blah. I'm half temped to buy or build lithium batteries for everything I own except the volt. the last battery lasted 8 years in it, and it's now in the corvette as a temp battery because the Optima I bought it with finally gave up.

Lithium will not be a good choice underhood. They need to be less than 130F.

 

[j91z28d1]

Next up: that Cold Case radiator I installed in the 2012 three years ago appears to be leaking but I can't figure out from where. I stupidly used worm drive hose clamps on the upper and lower radiator hoses and the one on the lower hose at the radiator keeps requiring tightening. And there is coolant puddling on the crossmember right beneath it. But yesterday it was snug and I still lost a pint of coolant with fresh puddling going on so it's clearly leaking from somewhere else as well. It's losing enough that it requires topping off before every trip - most of which are towing.

So I said f-it and ordered a new Denso radiator from Rock Auto with the 1-1/4" core along with the K5L fans and shroud because I had to modify the original to accommodate the Cold Case. These plus some other odds and ends and I ended up with a $600 bill with shipping because they came from 3 different warehouses. Se la vie. It's only money and I keep a savings account for car stuff.

It's annoying the pricey aluminum radiators for these appear to be a scam. To my knowledge at least half a dozen guys here who bought them had leaks within 2 years. I thought I had been lucky and escaped the poor quality, but it appears not.

the aluminum radiator issues still blows me away. gotta be something special about how theses are mounted or the radiators just aren't built right. I've had aluminum rads in cars forever without issue, heck I've got one in the c6 that I got used out of a wrecked car from ebay, hit in the front. it's slightly bent, they broke off a port in shipping from bad packing. so seller refunded me. said do with it what you want. so I couldn't bring myself not to try and had a local radiator shop look at it. they didn't want to weld on it, so just epoxied the small port back on. it's been solid, even track day usage. I've got industrial equipment at with with huge aluminum radiators that last the life of the equipment in rattling diesels.

such a shame we can't find a nice upgraded radiator.

 

[j91z28d1]

Lithium will not be a good choice underhood. They need to be less than 130F.

yeah, that's true. I do wonder why antigravity brand doesn't warn about that. huh.

I do forget you guys battery is back up by the firewall too. wonder if it's getting more heat soaked. mines out beyond the drivers headlight.

huh.

I think I'm going to be bata testing some new sodium lithium for their higher and lower temp capabilities in a few months.

 

[89Suburban]

Mine are rotted, too. I'm not happy to pay $140 to replace them. The gap seems unnecessarily large for the hood hinge to pass through. I wonder if someone could 3D print replacements with a smaller opening. I may check into that.

@Fast_AT4 this something you may be capable of doing?

 

[89Suburban]

Mine are rotted, too. I'm not happy to pay $140 to replace them. The gap seems unnecessarily large for the hood hinge to pass through. I wonder if someone could 3D print replacements with a smaller opening. I may check into that.

They really need to be flexible to get them in and out. Not sure if they make a material like that that can be 3D printed?

 

[Doubeleive]

@Fast_AT4 this something you may be capable of doing?

it's not going to be as easy as it looks, to be effective it needs to be glued on from the bottom and have a lip edge to make it flush with the top surface.

 

[89Suburban]

it's not going to be as easy as it looks, to be effective it needs to be glued on from the bottom and have a lip edge to make it flush with the top surface.

What if it is printed as one piece? Without the flappy part?

 

[Doubeleive]

What if it is printed as one piece? Without the flappy part?

good question I don't recall if it even ever touches anything, but I would guess it has to do with heat, all plastic might deform like a vinyl record in the sun

 

[Geotrash]

I've spent some time recently trying to figure out what voltage to run a agm battery at and man it's a mess.

I think you guys have the best chance of running them correctly with adjustment being able to be made to the battery settings with hpt. I don't remember his exact screen name but z71 something, I think was on to the settings.

I'm using one in the c6. it has no ecm voltage adjustments, I've switched to a newer pwm alt but I only have one sitting for voltage control and constant voltage just ain't right. a afm needs to be charged 2 or 3 steps to be fully charged and last a long time. what the voltage is at the steps is based on internal battery Temps. either by sensor or gm doing a bunch of crazy math's.

my volt runs a agm factory, but hpt doesn't define the voltage charge settings. so that's annoying, the yukon, hpt doesn't define the voltage settings to be adjusted on it, it came with a standard lead/acid, but I've changed to agm. I'm sure it needs a different charge settings, even thou it's not a cranking battery, so it probably won't give me the issue yours has. but still I know it's shortening it's life.



blah. I'm half temped to buy or build lithium batteries for everything I own except the volt. the last battery lasted 8 years in it, and it's now in the corvette as a temp battery because the Optima I bought it with finally gave up.

Yeah, I thought for a while that I had the AGM charging problem solved with a new alternator, but it's super clear to me now that AGM is not the right choice for these rigs because the software governs the battery management, and it was written for flooded lead-acid batteries. Putting an AGM battery in one of these is throwing good money away. I have been through three AGM batteries in the last 5 years on these rigs. The first two died within months so I chalked it up to defective batteries.

 

[Doubeleive]

Yeah, I thought for a while that I had the AGM charging problem solved with a new alternator, but it's super clear to me now that AGM is not the right choice for these rigs because the software governs the battery management, and it was written for flooded lead-acid batteries. Putting an AGM battery in one of these is throwing good money away. I have been through three AGM batteries in the last 5 years on these rigs. The first two died within months so I chalked it up to defective batteries.

I have 4 year old agm's (interstate) in the yukon and the silverado and both are fine so far...
4 years around here is about max life so I have been watching for signs of them getting weak but no signs of that yet

 

[mikez71]

I've spent some time recently trying to figure out what voltage to run a agm battery at and man it's a mess.

I've been looking into the same. So far I've tuned the charging to not drop below 13.5V, but am thinking about unplugging the current sensor. I am guessing that without the current sensor, it might be less skimpy with the charging. From what I can tell, undercharging seems to be the main issue.

Yesterday I had 12.5V after sitting a day, whereas before I was reading 12.3V. Not sure if it's my charging settings or because I put a battery tender on it once for a couple minutes.. (months ago)

 

[Doubeleive]

I even had the silverado running the radio and 2 amp's for over an hour last week on the battery while I helped a friend at his storage unit, no low battery alert or anything. I wasn't blasting it but it was on enough for us to listen at a normal volume.

 

[j91z28d1]

does black bear have settings for agm swap? they might be the best to do that having access to many different vehicles codes. one of them showing how gm handled agm would probably go a long way.

I still like that agm doesn't leave the trays and stuff eat up over time. that's worth the money in something like my c6