2021 PPV Front Brakes on 2013 Escalade ESV, and rear brake overhaul

[skpyle]

WARNING!!! This is NOT a straight bolt-on upgrade. Hand grinding is required on the spindle mounting ears and wheel spacers with longer lug studs will be REQUIRED! (At least they were for my stock 2013 Escalade ESV.)



Good Evening, Gentlemen!

As the title states, I am installing 6-piston GM/Brembo fixed calipers and 16" rotors on the front of my 2013 Escalade ESV with 154,8** miles on it. I am also overhauling the rear brakes to match.

Backstory: November 2021, at 125,0** miles, I went through the brakes on my Escalade. All four rotors turned, calipers sprayed off with brake cleaner, caliper brackets cleaned in parts washer, all new slider pins, bolts, boots, and pad slider plates. I also replaced the bleeder screws and installed pad drag reduction clips. I installed new Powerstop Z23 carbon fiber/ceramic brake pads at both ends.
All went well, and my Escalade had excellent brakes. They never felt lacking.

However...I can never leave well enough alone. I learned about the bolt-on PPV brake upgrade and couldn't get it out of my mind. I am rationalizing/justifying it as such: my Escalade weighs 5800lbs with my dumpster self in it, I like to drive fast on the highway, and I-85 can be a war zone at times.
So...better brakes is a good thing.


Here is the parts list for the front install:

Left caliper: GM Genuine 84793057
Right caliper: GM Genuine 84793058
Caliper mounting bolt (x4): GM Genuine 11546469 (NOTE: this is the matching part number for a 2021 PPV caliper)
Fender washer as spacer shim for calipers (x4): 3/8" ID, stainless steel, 0.060" and 0.040" thick, drilled out to 9/16"
Caliper banjo bolt (x2): GM Genuine 11569590 (NOTE: this is the same for 2013 stock caliper and 2021 PPV caliper)
Banjo bolt crush washer (10pk): GM Genuine 21012386

Rotor (x2): Power Stop AR82209EVC Evolution fully coated
Rotor retaining screw (x2): GM Genuine 11609271 (NOTE: this is the same for 2013 and 2021 rotor)

Pad set: Power Stop Z232407 Z23 Carbon Fiber-Ceramic

Braided steel brake hose set of 6: Power Stop BH00161

Massive honkin’ rotor!

Jumbo calipers and brake pads!

Braided steel front brake hoses with hardware and new GM banjo bolts.

6 piston goodness.

 

[skpyle]

Existing driver’s side front brake assembly.

16” PPV rotor at left, 13” stock rotor at right.

6 piston fixed PPV caliper at left, 2 piston slider stock caliper at right.

 

[skpyle]

Forgot to mention, I am not done with this yet. I got rained out today and couldn't finish. Will pick it back up Wednesday evening.

So far, this has mostly been a bolt-on affair. However, I have had to make a few changes.

If I were running the original, or OEM replacement brake hoses, then the new GM banjo bolts would have fit just fine. However, the banjo fittings on the Powerstop braided steel hoses are thinner than the stock line fittings. It felt to me like the GM banjo bolts would bottom out in the calipers. I could not use the banjo bolts included with the Powerstop braided lines. They were the wrong thread pitch. GM banjo bolts were M10x1.0 thread pitch and 27mm long, while the Powerstop banjo bolts were M10x1.5 thread pitch and 20mm long.

I ground approximately 2mm off the ends of the two GM banjo bolts, beveled the newly ground ends, then chased the threads. I will use the GM copper crush washers with these banjo bolts, as they are thicker than the ones included in the Powerstop kit.

Top row, two GM banjo bolts shortened to 25mm, next to a stock 27mm length GM banjo bolt. Middle is a Powerstop banjo bolt and matching copper crush washers. Bottom are the GM copper crush washers.



From other threads and youtube videos on this upgrade, I had been warned that there would be interference between the wheel speed sensor cable brackets at the tops of the spindles and the 6 piston calipers. I elected to cut off the unused excess part. Quick and dirty cut with a hacksaw, then a quick spray of paint.

Unused tabs on wheel speed sensor cable brackets will be in the way.

Wheel speed sensor cable brackets have been shortened. I also cleaned the the mounting hardware for the brackets and the brake hose to upper control arm brackets. As well as the wheel speed sensor cable clips, ride height sensor arm lower ball mounts, and the original caliper bracket mounting bolts.



On that note, I cleaned all the old thread locker from the original caliper bracket mounting bolts so I could use them to easily mock up the new calipers to the spindle. The new caliper mounting bolts have thread locker on them. More or less a one shot deal.

Also, I mistakenly ordered a set of 4 of the original caliper mounting bracket bolts, GM Genuine 11612265. These are M14x2.0 thread pitch and 45mm long. The 6-piston caliper mounting bolts, GM Genuine 11546469, are M14x2.0 thread pitch and 40mm long. Others have used the 11546469 bolts on the 6-piston calipers with no issue.

New 2013 GM caliper bracket bolt at left, used OEM 2013 caliper bracket bolt in middle, new 2021 GM caliper bolt at right.

 

[skpyle]

The front suspension ride height sensor arm lower mounts are ball studs that thread into the brake hose retaining bracket on the upper control arm. I easily removed the ball stud from the bracket with a little impact driver. I had more trouble removing the arm from the ball. Looking at the threads of the ball stud, they were the 'trilobe' self locking style. However, they were NOT thread cutting. This matters because the mounting holes are not threaded in the brackets on the Powerstop braided steel brake lines. I could see me screwing both up by just trying to ram them home with the little impact driver. So, in true OCD fashion, I tapped the holes M6x1.0 thread pitch, and installed the ball studs with a little purple Loctite.

Ride height sensor arm lower mount ball stud threaded into brake hose bracket on the upper control arm.

Powerstop braided front brake hoses.

Non-threaded hole in new bracket, and cleaned up ball stud.

Ball stud installed in new bracket, as well as cable clip.




Yes, I know, I spent an entire post and 4 photos explaining how to install a ball stud in a new bracket. That is just how I think sometimes. It will be OK, get over it...

 

[skpyle]

OK, here is where it got 'interesting'. And no longer straight bolt-on.

On a youtube video of a guy installing these 6 piston calipers on a 2007 Escalade, he mentioned having to grind a little on the spindles for the caliper mounting ears to sit flat. Not much.
Hmmm...

On my 2013 Escalade ESV AWD, it was a little more than 'not much.' Luckily, since I am an incompetent machinist, it was a long and painful process. And I only did the passenger's side.

I initially started by placing the stainless steel fender washers on the outer sides of the spindle mounting tabs then running the bolts in from the back side. The lower washer sat flush with no issue. For the upper one, I traced around the washer on the protruding part of the casting with a sharpie.
And then got to work grinding.
I was using a small drill with a round nose and flat faced rotary metal rasp. I had used them eons ago to clean casting flash from a cast iron engine block, so I figured they would do OK on a cast iron spindle. They worked, though it took quite a long time.
I ended up grinding a flat on the top stainless steel washer to clear the casting.

When I mocked up the caliper, I realized I had made a mistake. Or at least missed something. The caliper mounting ears had their own interference points. Since I used my little battery powered ratchet to snug up the mounting bolts, the caliper ears got nicked. Dumba$$.

More marking, more grinding, more mocking. I finally got the passenger's side caliper to mount flush. Granted, this is with the 0.060" thick washers. When I go to install the rotor and check how the caliper is centered, my luck says I will need the 0.040" thick washers.

Upper mounting pad on spindle, with ground spacer washer and ugly hand machining.

Lower mounting pad on spindle, with full spacer washer and slightly less ugly hand machining. Sorry for the lousy focus.

Nicks on passenger's side caliper mounting ears.



Since it is going to be a few days until I get back to this little project, I have ordered a set of carbide burrs. I think I will be able to clean up the ugly hand machining on the passenger's side spindle. And do better on the driver's side. I will probably open it up a little so I don't need the ground off washer. It is a pain to get the flat side lined up with the ground away part of the spindle. And that is with no rotor and no pads.



Until then...

 

[Davidj281]

You sir should be in technical writing! I have the same vehicle and i'll do this upgrade when i need front brakes after my EBS orange wear out. Awesome writeup! thanks!!

 

[skpyle]

You sir should be in technical writing! I have the same vehicle and i'll do this upgrade when i need front brakes after my EBS orange wear out. Awesome writeup! thanks!!

Thank you!
I try to make my posts informative and useful to the forum.

 

[skpyle]

Driving home from work this morning was all the justification that I need for this upgrade.

I-85N was an unholy cross between Mad Max and Mario Kart.

 

[skpyle]

Well...this has gone wrong.

My stock 2013 Escalade RPO Q7L 22" aluminum rims do NOT clear the 6 piston fixed Brembo calipers.

The lower outer edge of the caliper rubs the inside of the rim spokes.

2013 Escalade RPO Q7L painted 22" rim.

Rub ring at the base of the spokes on the inside of the rim.

Rub marks on the caliper.



Now, this is only on the driver's side front wheel. I have no reason to believe the passenger's side front wheel is any different.

As a test, I stacked two washers, totalling 6.5mm thick, on each lug stud, and reinstalled the rim. The spokes still hit the caliper. Meaning the rim wasn't even fully seated on the brake rotor.



I am way pissed right now...

As it is, I see two possibilities, neither which are attractive.

1) grind on the calipers until the rim spokes clear. This will be ugly at best. Even if I carefully spray paint that part of the caliper black.
2) get wheel spacers. The thinnest hub centric bolt on wheel spacers I have found on a quick search are 25mm. I am not sure how that will fit. And I probably should put the same spacers at the rear to match.

Either way, its a Hobson's Choice.


Regardless, I will figure something out. I am this far in, and am NOT going back.

 

[j91z28d1]

thin wheel spacers will be fine.. especially with 6 logs. I know import guys that run all kinds of different spacers to make wheels clear stuff, they run track days and drift days with tons of side loading on little studs, not even close to hub Centric and never have a issue.


just tq them after a good heat cycle and if you can keep some hub centric going on, your more than solid.

 

[petethepug]

.5” wheel spacers & .5” longer wheel studs worked on this 08 EXT Brembo BBK. He was looking for a solution to the thread pitch issue you discovered too.

New 08 EXT owner, about to begin Whipple build, some...

www.cadillacforums.com

 

[skpyle]

That’s what it is looking like.

I just did some more fitment testing. Stack of washers 13mm thick gives approximately 1/16” clearance between the caliper and the rim.

Lug studs are definitely too short for this.

I am now looking into longer lug studs.

Thanks!

 

[petethepug]

Fastgas in the other forum was racking his brain trying to figure out what the thread pitch was on his rear brake lines. I think he ditched running the Vette Brembo at the rear and went with another company.

 

[skpyle]

Fastgas in the other forum was racking his brain trying to figure out what the thread pitch was on his rear brake lines. I think he ditched running the Vette Brembo at the rear and went with another company.

I saw that. The new Powerstop braided brake hoses threaded onto my front hardlines with no problem. I am expecting/hoping for the same for the four rear hoses as well.

 

[MWD_CTSV]

It is great to see that the Powerstop 2021-2023 PPV rotors are available!

I had the same problem with wheel clearance for my 2011 Yukon Denali wheels, so I ended up using .250 hub centric spacers from Baer. I don't like having the wheel non-hub centric, but the braking is awesome.

 

[skpyle]

OK, I am back, and have good updates.

I finally completed the replacement of the front lug studs and installation of spacers back on the 24th and have been driving my Escalade daily since.

My report on adding 2021 PPV front brakes to a GMT900: not for the faint of heart, and NOT a straight bolt on. But, totally worth it.

The brakes feel very solid. Almost as if nothing has changed. Granted, my Escalade braked just fine on good condition stock components. Now, initial bite is a tad more, but braking feels smooth. It is just a whole lot more. When I apply the brakes, the vehicle just smoothly sheds speed, quickly.
The brakes are not grabby or touchy, the pedal isn't soft or rock hard. Honestly, if I didn't know any better, I wouldn't know my Escalade has better brakes. Until I have to really step on the brake pedal.

I have not done a full panic stop, as I am afraid to. My previous SUV, 1999 Ford Explorer Limited 5.0L AWD (God rest her soul, taken out by an inattentive driver), had excellent brakes. Me being a dumba$$, wanted to test the ABS before a long road trip. I panic stopped coming down a hill at considerable speed. And glazed all 4 rotors and sets of pads. Way bad juju...
Since then, I have been hesitant to perform a full panic stop needlessly.
Having said that, I have tried agressive braking on the highway coming down from 100mph. The brakes just bite in smoothly and pull the vehicle down. No fuss, just solid feeling of YOU ARE STOPPING!!!
I don't know if this makes any sense, but there is no drama. Its not like the front end dips and you hit the steering wheel, you just feel the vehicle STOPPING. It always feels under control.

 

[skpyle]

Back on track for documenting the install:

With the new carbide burrs, I hand 'machined' clearance at the caliper mounting points on both spindles. Much better. Still ugly, but better. I removed enough cast iron so that I did not have to trim the stainless steel spacer washers. Having installed both calipers multiple times now, there was NO WAY I would have been able to keep a trimmed spacer correctly oriented.
Once I was happy with the 'machining', I cleaned the area with brake cleaner, then shot a coat of black spray paint on. Mainly to keep rust from forming as fast.

Driver's side spindle upper caliper mount, as it is machined from the factory. This shows what I was starting with.

Driver's side spindle upper caliper mount with spacer washer on through bolt. This shows how much interference there was for the washer to sit flat.

Driver's side spindle lower caliper mount, as it is machined from the factory. This shows what I was starting with.

Driver's side spindle lower caliper mount with spacer washer on through bolt. The spacer washer just about sat flat. However, I still ground some clearance.

 

[skpyle]

Driver's side spindle upper caliper mount after my 'expert' hand machining for spacer washer clearance. Ugly, but it works.

Quick shot of flat black Rustoleum on the driver's side upper caliper mount to keep the rust from forming as fast.

Driver's side spindle lower caliper mount after my 'expert' hand machining for spacer washer clearance. Ugly, but it works.

Quick shot of flat black Rustoleum on the driver's side upper caliper mount to keep the rust from forming as fast.



NOTE: I went back and cleaned up my 'machining' on the passenger's side spindle so it matched the driver's side.

 

[skpyle]

Now that I had clearance for the spacer washers to sit, I had to figure out which thickness of spacers I needed to center the calipers. Others had posted using a fender washer on each bolt.
Yeah. That didn't work for me.

From Amazon, I purchased 3/8" ID x 1 1/2" OD stainless steel fender washers, that were listed as being 0.040" thick, as well as same size but 0.060" thick. This way I had some leeway for spacing. I was still under the impression I would only need one spacer per bolt. I drilled out a group of both thickness washers to 9/16" ID so the M14 caliper bolts would pass through.

Got a caliper mounted with a 0.060" spacer between the caliper and the spindle. Lightly torqued the bolts. And noticed immediately that the rotor was NOT centered in the caliper.

OK, take it back a part and rethink.
I measured each spacer washer with my calipers, and marked its size in Sharpie. So I knew what selection I had to work with.

I quickly realized I could not use my calipers to measure the gap between the rotor surfaces and the caliper pistons. Measuring point was too deep. Scratched my head for a bit. Until I remembered a little set of tools I bought years ago on a whim, and had never used. Snap gauges! Though finicky to use, they were perfect for measuring this gap.

Through several cycles of mounting, measuring gaps, demounting, repeating for each caliper, I ended up walking gaps into this:

Driver's upper outboard: 0.79"
Driver's upper inboard: 0.81"
This was using 0.063" and 0.061" thick spacers between the caliper and spindle.

Driver's lower outboard: 0.80"
Driver's lower inboard: 0.82"
This was using 0.065" and 0.061" thick spacers between the caliper and spindle.

Passenger's upper outboard: 0.80"
Passenger's upper inboard: 0.82"
This was using 0.063" and 0.055" thick spacers between the caliper and spindle.

Passenger's lower outboard: 0.80"
Passenger's lower inboard: 0.82"
This was using 0.063" and 0.055" thick spacers between the caliper and spindle.

I called 0.002" difference between outboard and inboard good and the rotor centered in the caliper.

Honestly, this is academic. I am using digital micrometers and snap gauges, and I don't do this for a living. There is most definitely some tolerance/error in my measurements. I was trying to get it as close as I could with what I had.
However...two things:
1) the brake pistons will 'self center' the pads on the rotor. A little misalignment will be OK
2) the numbers look good

Stainless steel fender washers used as spacers, shorthand marked with measured thickness. 58 = 0.058"
My digital micrometers are decent quality, and I am not a complete hamfist using them, but they are not lab grade. Good enough for what I am trying to do.

The cutest little set of snap gauges. They were definitely the right tool for measuring the gap between the brake rotor surface and the caliper pistons.

Top of driver's side caliper. Photo doesn't really show it, but the rotor looks centered in the caliper.

Bottom of driver's side caliper. Photo doesn't really show it, but the rotor looks centered in the caliper.

 

[skpyle]

Now that the calipers were centered over the rotors, I could move onto the next issue: mounting bolts.

I had originally purchased 4 of the recommended GM Genuine 11612265 caliper bracket mounting bolts. These are stock for 2013 Escalade to mount the caliper brackets to the spindles. These bolts are M14x2.0 - 45mm long under the head, are matte black colored and coated with threadlocker.

Thinking about it, I looked up the stock caliper mounting bolts for 2021 PPV 6-piston calipers. I ordered 4 of these GM Genuine 11546469 caliper mounting bolts. These bolts are M14x2.0 - 40mm long under the head, are matte silver colored and coated with threadlocker.

When I was mocking up the calipers, I used the original caliper bracket mounting bolts that I had cleaned. They were the equivalent of the 11612265 bolts, M14x2.0 - 45mm long.

Wasn't sure which new mounting bolts to use. The 45mm long bolts were to be torqued to 148 lbs/ft. The 40mm long bolts (I think, see earlier post in this thread) were Torque To Yield bolts and had an angle torque procedure. Which really doesn't faze me. Once I put the bolts on, they wouldn't be coming back off until next pad change. (Ominous thunder cracking in the distance...)

However...with the calipers mounted with the spacer washers, I noticed the original mounting bolts had approximately 3.9mm thread protrusion past the end of the threaded insert on the caliper mounting ear. Meaning the 40mm bolts would have -1.1mm thread protrusion. This bothered me.

I wasted a considerable amount of time on mental arithmetic gymnastics trying to determine if the 40mm bolts would work. And decided, NO.

I used the new 45mm long bolts for caliper mounting.

New 11612265 bolt at left, original mounting bolt in middle, new 11546569 bolt at right.

Passenger's side lower caliper mounting ear, showing 3.9mm mounting bolt protrusion.

What -1.1mm bolt protrusion looked like on the caliper mounting ear threaded insert. It may well have been fine to use the 40mm long bolts, but my OCD said to use the 45mm long bolts.

Money shot on the new GM calipers. Just because.