yeah, I'd like to have a non broken one but they haven't replied to my message yet about it. I'll give them till Monday. I can't find any parts online for these. it's just 2 screws to swap the voltage regulator, I was going to tell them to send me a good one, or refund what a new one costs. but can't even figure out what this alt is called. like model ad144 or whatever. once you know what an alt is called, everything comes up. this one, no clue. all the alt rebuild sites use the actual model number, not the oem gm number or by application.
but either way, it's a test thing. it doesn't really work like I hopped anyways, seems the e38 ecm does control the pwm, but only after it gets a request from the bcm. these bcm don't have the amp ring input like the trucks, so there's no programming in the bcm to send that request.
2 ways to do it. there's a company that makes a module that hooks into the can + and - and sends a request. it's used for when you swap a ls truck engine into hot rods without a bcm. they don't know if it will work for my setup, it's 249$. if it doesn't, no refund once wired in haha.
other way is completely remote of the ecm. pwm box with a dial I can set it to any voltage I want. that's 80$. seems like the way to go but also if the first way worked, I'd like to have the ecm control it and tune it with hp. there's boost settings where if the voltage drops low at the ecm because of high load, it ramps the pwm up without worry about overcharging the battery long term.
either ways, just setting at the default 13.7 at the terminal, up to temp after a 20mins drive in 100deg Temps, pull in the garage, turn the ac down to max, open the doors so everything ramps to max load, all lights on. saw 92amps and that's with the larger pulley, idled down to stock idle, 700 I think it is, 10% under drive crank pulley and it's solid.. no fluctuation at all in voltage at the terminal. at that load I'm getting about a half volt less at the battery itself and 0.8 less at the dash. only about 0.5v at the dash display when I wasn't going for max load test. might clean up the grounds and terminals, but these cars are dumb and have a small 14g fuseible link inline between the alt and starter, then up to the battery and fuse box. lot of places to drop voltage at 90amps. well cooling fan is straight to the alt terminal, so probably only 55amp or so thru that link. but this is by far the most solid voltage this car has had. I do wanna bump it up to what the agm wants at the battery itself, byond that. it seems worth the hassle to make it work. I swear the car runs smoother, that could be in my head thou haha.
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anyways interesting stuff.
