Growing up doesn't have to suck

[George B]

Being on the roadside to change the spare using the factory equipment made me realize I should invest a little in this area for convenience and safety.

For starters, I found out that the factory jack is supposed to go into this round recess under the axle:

View attachment 266047



I'm considering getting a hydraulic bottle jack. I started by measuring the factory jack.

Minimum height is 7.25":

View attachment 266050


I don't know if it's supposed to be a two-stage jack. If not, the maximum height is 12.5":

View attachment 266049


If it is a two-stage, then the second stage/maximum height is 17.5":

View attachment 266048


That looks pretty sketchy. I'll have to measure the ride height of the front since it is jacked up by the frame, meaning it'll have to come up higher to lift the tire off the ground. I want to carry a piece or two of 2x6 to be used as footing for the jack in case I'm not on a hard surface. The minimum height of the jack will be determined with this in mind.

A while back someone on here did some research and found they needed the jack in the link below. I never checked to see if the use of a taller one was possible. It may be with the 22” tires provided the spare doesn’t get a flat too.

 

[George B]

https://www.amazon.com/Pro-LifT-B-S...ocphy=9018747&hvtargid=pla-494197793915&psc=1

 

[iamdub]

I hate liars. The tpms valve stems look different then regular stems.

I can't really peg the guy as a "liar". He's a detective and not really a "car guy", as in, he buys and doesn't build. I think he really wasn't sure on what I was asking when I mentioned the sensors. I don't really care- I got them for $500 and I have a spare set of sensors.

Not all the TPMS valve stems look differently. The stems in the 22s have the brass threaded part to mount the sensors. The ones in my de-clads look like regular rubber stems, but have sensors. I know because I bought them new and installed them myself.

 

[iamdub]

https://www.amazon.com/Pro-LifT-B-S...ocphy=9018747&hvtargid=pla-494197793915&psc=1

Thanks for the link. I like the strength but stubbiness of that one. I'll have to add it to the list of comparisons. It may be too short and/or too wide, though. I also would like whatever jack I get to fit in the area (not necessarily the same mount) as the factory jack.

 

[George B]

Thanks for the link. I like the strength but stubbiness of that one. I'll have to add it to the list of comparisons. It may be too short and/or too wide, though. I also would like whatever jack I get to fit in the area (not necessarily the same mount) as the factory jack.

I am looking for the same solution as you. My replacement jack must also be able to service both my trailers. I used to travel with the harbor freight mini trolly jacks but they take up so much space. Never tried to fit one in the jack storage area.

 

[iamdub]

I really like those wheels on the Tahoe. I’m not a fan of black wheels at all but those looks great on it. Sucks about the tire though

Thank you. They weren't my first choice but they popped up for sale right as I was beginning the lowering project. They were just a couple of miles from me and for a great price, so I had to.

 

[iamdub]

I am looking for the same solution as you. My replacement jack must also be able to service both my trailers. I used to travel with the harbor freight mini trolly jacks but they take up so much space. Never tried to fit one in the jack storage area.

I'm sure there are trolley jacks small enough to fit in the factory storage space. But, they'd either be too small or just barely big enough to work. I keep some nice (big gauge) jumper cables in there, so the jack would have to accommodate those as well.

I'll pretty sure a small bottle jack would be ideal. I'll get a container of some sort, maybe cut the lower half of half-gallon milk jug to keep the jack in, just in case it leaks. Some PIG mat would help to absorb the fluid as well as act as movement and noise cushioning.

 

[89Suburban]

Since I finally got the all hose clamps I needed from the salvage yard, I was able to install the heater hose connectors. I definitely wanted this to be done before the engine was back in.


3/4" heater core connectors and 1/2" rear heater core connectors. The hoses to the two nipples on the water pump are 5/8":

View attachment 248936


About 12" each of 3/4" and 1/2" heater hoses and box of 3-way Ts and factory hose clamps (factory from GM, Ford and Honda )
View attachment 248937


Semi-comfy seat on cross member in engine bay:
View attachment 248938


The 1/2" tubes were too close, so I trimmed them down:
View attachment 248939


Minimal, but adequate gap and perfect alignment:
View attachment 248940

This is awesome thanks brah.

 

[iamdub]

Prompted by some recent posts by @Dantheman1540, I wanted to see how it would do with a cold start, in cold weather and after it had been sitting for a while. As of this morning, the Tahoe had not been started in about two weeks. I got out at 7am to take advantage of the 32° weather and make a video.

I shot the video from straight ahead to be able to hear both sides should either one have any noises. The cranking was noticeably slower than normal, but that's probably mostly due to the cold battery. I'll have it parked back in the shop soon, and I'll keep it on the maintainer. There were no odd noises upon startup- no lifter ticks, no exhaust leaks, no dry pulleys, etc.:

Made a warm idle vid, just cuz:

 

[1BADI5]

I need to get a set of those declads