Engine Swap to stroked 6.0 (408) and general vehicle refurbishment

[Chooko]

Thank you sir. You had the harness listed in the part numbers so I assumed you got it. No worries. I was just trying to confirm what years had the provision and which didn't, for @Chooko . I'm thinking his 2010 will have it and he can just plug the harness in and rock and roll. Obviously, he could just run a wire to a power source and save the $80 for the harness.

Thanks again for sharing all of this

Thanks much to you both for all the info. I ordered the parts (wheel, clock spring, + harness) last night. I'll check it out before I pull the old harness and if I dont need it I;ll just return it. I'll keep this thread updated...

 

[pwtr02ss]

Thanks much to you both for all the info. I ordered the parts (wheel, clock spring, + harness) last night. I'll check it out before I pull the old harness and if I dont need it I;ll just return it. I'll keep this thread updated...

Where did you get the parts from? Everywhere I looked was showing out of stock

 

[Chooko]

Where did you get the parts from? Everywhere I looked was showing out of stock

GM Parts Direct. Hopefully the wheel actually ships. If not I'm going to buy a used one and have it recovered by Dallas Custom Steering Wheels.

 

[George B]

You guys went and got me wanting something I don’t need. Or do I?

 

[Chooko]

You guys went and got me wanting something I don’t need. Or do I?

Linving in Wisconsin? I'd say "yes!"

 

[Geotrash]

You guys went and got me wanting something I don’t need. Or do I?

It seems like such a little thing, but I have the heated wheel in my '12, but not in my '07, and every time I get into the '07 on a cold day (or ANY car without a heated wheel), I miss it instantly. That said, the implementation of it on these trucks isn't that great. There is a hot spot by the wheel spokes on the left and right side, and with the wooden inlay, parts of the wheel rim are cold and other parts are warm. So, like a cat, I find the warm spots. My BMW had a much better implementation of a heated steering wheel, with uniform heat at the perfect temperature.

 

[pwtr02ss]

You guys went and got me wanting something I don’t need. Or do I?

my 19 denali has it and I like it. I wish I had bought the steering wheel when rock auto had it in stock but I couldn't find the clock spring at the time

 

[Just Fishing]

I think I read that you are supposed to flush the transmission lines and the cooler before installing the new transmission. Sounds like that is what you are recommending here also? What did you find in filter and how did you use that information to prevent disaster? I've been wondering about this since I started this process, and although I'm a few months out from having the engine installed, I'm trying to learn all that I can right now. So your input is greatly appreciated!

Yeah, i had flushed the cooler lines out with just compressed air and since the radiator was out, i used my AC flush tool to flush forward and reverse on both the motor oil cooler side and the trans cooler side.

I might have just missed signs of back pressure/blockage.
My main focus was on the engine oil cooler side due to issues it had...

for the engine oil filter, I cut it open looking for excess metal.
expected to see some during break-in, but it should reduce after a while.

For me, it got worse.
And after i changed out the engine break-in oil to synthetic at about 1k miles, it got way worse.

cutting open the filter confirmed bearing material in the filter.

Back flushing the radiator trans cooler again, i removed metal pieces (caught with a rag).

I'm thinking my new converter might have had a little trash in it, or me running the engine for a sec with low transmission fluid might have damaged the pump and sent some metal into the cooler lines.

since it didn't seem to be an issue until after a while, i'm thinking there might have been a little trash in the converter.

With the apparent blockage in the transmission cooler lines, the only odd thing i noticed was a lack of engine breaking with the transmission in tow mode.

For the burned out thrust bearing, the only cause i can find was a possible blockage in the transmission, usually the cooler lines.
that causes a backup in the converter and will cause the converter to be shoved into the flywheel.

for the crap found in the cooler lines,
I'm not sure if that was related or not, but otherwise the transmission shifted fine.

right now, i have both trans coolers bypassed with some -6 an tubing i had on hand.

Once everything checks out, I'm buying a new radiator and front cooler.
I also bypassed the engine oil cooler for now, I don't trust the radiator.

 

[Chooko]

GM Parts Direct. Hopefully the wheel actually ships. If not I'm going to buy a used one and have it recovered by Dallas Custom Steering Wheels.

Well, the wheel is on indefinite backorder. So I take that to mean that its discontinued and not available. Looks like I'll be going the used wheel route.

 

[Chooko]

Yeah, i had flushed the cooler lines out with just compressed air and since the radiator was out, i used my AC flush tool to flush forward and reverse on both the motor oil cooler side and the trans cooler side.

I might have just missed signs of back pressure/blockage.
My main focus was on the engine oil cooler side due to issues it had...

for the engine oil filter, I cut it open looking for excess metal.
expected to see some during break-in, but it should reduce after a while.

For me, it got worse.
And after i changed out the engine break-in oil to synthetic at about 1k miles, it got way worse.

cutting open the filter confirmed bearing material in the filter.

Back flushing the radiator trans cooler again, i removed metal pieces (caught with a rag).

I'm thinking my new converter might have had a little trash in it, or me running the engine for a sec with low transmission fluid might have damaged the pump and sent some metal into the cooler lines.

since it didn't seem to be an issue until after a while, i'm thinking there might have been a little trash in the converter.

With the apparent blockage in the transmission cooler lines, the only odd thing i noticed was a lack of engine breaking with the transmission in tow mode.

For the burned out thrust bearing, the only cause i can find was a possible blockage in the transmission, usually the cooler lines.
that causes a backup in the converter and will cause the converter to be shoved into the flywheel.

for the crap found in the cooler lines,
I'm not sure if that was related or not, but otherwise the transmission shifted fine.

right now, i have both trans coolers bypassed with some -6 an tubing i had on hand.

Once everything checks out, I'm buying a new radiator and front cooler.
I also bypassed the engine oil cooler for now, I don't trust the radiator.

All of that gives me some food for thought...

 

[Chooko]

Alright, I am need of some opinions...

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I bought just one rear axle bearing and seal by mistake a few days ago, and immediately went and ordered a second one from Summit when I noticed my mistake. Today the second one arrived and it came in completely different packaging, but with the same sticker and part number.


Upon closer inspection, the two bearings are nearly identical with the same brand name, part number, and markings, except that one of them is marked "XWWWWW" along the bottom of the rim with the markings, and the other is marked "WX" in the same location. Are these thigs the same? And will I be OK running them in the same car? Since they are pretty much independent of each other I feel as though it ought to be OK, but maybe there is something I'm not thinking of?


Opinions?

 

[swathdiver]

Alright, I am need of some opinions...

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I bought just one rear axle bearing and seal by mistake a few days ago, and immediately went and ordered a second one from Summit when I noticed my mistake. Today the second one arrived and it came in completely different packaging, but with the same sticker and part number.
View attachment 357558View attachment 357559

Upon closer inspection, the two bearings are nearly identical with the same brand name, part number, and markings, except that one of them is marked "XWWWWW" along the bottom of the rim with the markings, and the other is marked "WX" in the same location. Are these thigs the same? And will I be OK running them in the same car? Since they are pretty much independent of each other I feel as though it ought to be OK, but maybe there is something I'm not thinking of?
View attachment 357560View attachment 357561

Opinions?

Ought to be fine, probably just a different run, manufacture date, from another time.

 

[iamdub]

Alright, I am need of some opinions...

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I bought just one rear axle bearing and seal by mistake a few days ago, and immediately went and ordered a second one from Summit when I noticed my mistake. Today the second one arrived and it came in completely different packaging, but with the same sticker and part number.
View attachment 357558View attachment 357559

Upon closer inspection, the two bearings are nearly identical with the same brand name, part number, and markings, except that one of them is marked "XWWWWW" along the bottom of the rim with the markings, and the other is marked "WX" in the same location. Are these thigs the same? And will I be OK running them in the same car? Since they are pretty much independent of each other I feel as though it ought to be OK, but maybe there is something I'm not thinking of?
View attachment 357560View attachment 357561

Opinions?

You sure those are "W"s and not "M"s?

If they're Roman numerals, the one in the left pic would be 5,010 and the other would be 990. I would agree with James and assume it's some kind of batch number. But, if they're "W"s, then they for sure wouldn't be Roman numerals and I'd still just assume it's some sort of a batch number. Why are you even wasting time reading these ramblings when you could add those bearings to your parts pile and continue on with life, ordering more parts?

 

[Just Fishing]

All of that gives me some food for thought...

This is pretty much the same one i have.

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(JEGS 80532)

I recommend it, it's quick and easy way to check what the filter is catching.

 

[Chooko]

More parts today...



Here is my rear end rebuild kit and my new gear set. Hopefully I'll be installing all of this over the weekend.

 

[Chooko]

I bought a new differential cover, with the little support bolts for the carrier bearing caps. Now if only that danged LSD would show up, I'd start working on this project!

 

[Chooko]

I bought a new throttle body and just got it delivered in the mail today. The part number is 217-3153. I have two questions about this part that hopefully some of you guys can answer...

1. It appears that all of the mounting holes and connectors are the same. Is there any reason why I can't just plug the harness connector into this throttle body when the time comes, and proceed? There was talk earlier in this thread of needing an X-Link to go between the harness and throttle body, but I'm thinking that I'm good without it?
2. This is advertised as a 90mm throttle body. Putting a caliper on the bore (in the back) it measured 89 and change, so close enough to 90mm. But, the front appears to be the same size on both. The outer diameter where the intake tube from the filter goes is the same if I hold them up to each other. The intake side of the throttle body is milled (on both of them) in an offset manner, so i wouldn't know where to measure it. I just want to confirm that these things are measured on the back side bore, and that I do indeed have a higher flowing throttle body here than the stock one for my 5.3?


Joe

 

[pwtr02ss]

I bought a new differential cover, with the little support bolts for the carrier bearing caps. Now if only that danged LSD would show up, I'd start working on this project!
View attachment 358359

Post up details on the gear change. Thats something Ive wanted to do, but never had the confidence to do it (and it be quiet and perfect).

 

[Chooko]

Post up details on the gear change. Thats something Ive wanted to do, but never had the confidence to do it (and it be quiet and perfect).

I definately will. Right now I think I have everything to do it, including a whole bunch of new tools, bearings, seals, gaskets, gears, covers, Royal Purple, etc, etc. But what I don't have is the new TrueTrack LSD. Something about supply chain issues.....?

 

[Chooko]

More parts came today.