Useless Information

[swathdiver]

As mentioned in another thread we replaced the condenser in the Yukon. After experiencing many delays and with the sun coming down, I opted to not install the new accumulator and had to re use the line between it and the condenser as the new one had one fitting clocked differently. We used its gaskets and o-rings and compared its filters to the old ones which were still pristine and devoid of debris. There was but a drop or two of oil that came out of the condenser so we did not add oil to the system either but I still may because one of the last big leaks it lost about an ounce.

After the 4th 12 ounce can went in the gauges sat at about 38 psi and 211 psi respectively and it was 84 degrees or so with near 100% humidity. The low side was in the 40s from the 2nd and 3rd cans and don't remember while filling the 4th. Commanded temp was 50 degrees and actual was 46. The chill is back but will check it over again tomorrow in daylight.

While evacuating the system we torqued the intake manifold again. We've done it several times in as many years and I do not remember it being a two-step process. If it is now and wasn't then, that's a benefit I guess of having the online shop manual from All-Data-DIY as it gets updated. Some of the intake manifold bolts needed a little tightening and after she came up to temp the LTFTs settled down to their usual negative 7s and 9s. The night before it was more than twice that.

Not sure my girls have the patience for that project, to replace the intake gaskets.

Somewhere along the way we disrupted an airbag sensor somehow. It threw a code B0083 symptom 39. I'll check the wiring tomorrow when it gets light out but looks like another $159 is coming to Rock Auto.

 

[iamdub]

We've been recording data for some time now and always glad when something new becomes apparent. Came across a post this year where it was said that the computer system has a high and low alcohol content tables and that running 50% alcohol is no different than running 80%. So I looked at our logs and it became apparent that this is so on the Sierra but with the Yukon it doesn't seem to matter between 40% and more. E70 includes fuel with an alcohol content of 51% or more to 70%.

Still trying to run more mixes with the Sierra at E15 levels, the Apple IOS phone was not talking to the Foseal OBD WIFI adapter so I bought a Foseal Bluetooth adapter and it works now. So I expect to be able to get more accurate data from the Sierra from now on. According to the data, the Sierra may get its best economy on E15 and maybe E50.

Appreciate any and all input.

View attachment 345756

View attachment 345757

These alcohol content figures are as physically measured or with what the PCM is reporting?

 

[swathdiver]

These alcohol content figures are as physically measured or with what the PCM is reporting?

Computer. We do spot check now here and there off the fuel rail and the computers have been very very close.

 

[iamdub]

Computer. We do spot check now here and there off the fuel rail and the computers have been very very close.

Nice. I haven't tried mine again since that time about a year ago when it was stuck around a calculated ~22% with a measured ~65%. I'm starting to wonder if I have a leaky intake manifold gasket. I've gotten an "insufficient switching O2 sensor" code for bank 2 a few times over the past year. It would clear itself and seems to be during extended periods of low-load operation. I swapped the sensors around during an oil change 5K ago and the same code reappeared once not long ago. I'm wondering if I have some sort of small leak on the RH bank that is affecting the way the alcohol content is calculated. I'd surely like to get the full benefit of E85.

 

[swathdiver]

Had a 120 mile run to make yesterday. Remote started the truck twice and then about 5 more minutes before I got inside. It was 103 outside and warm inside. Once the truck was started and the AC set to 64, it wasn't really cooling down like I remembered when we first got it. My memory ain't what it once was either! Once we got underway and up to speed the chill could now be felt. At idle, the commanded temp was 35 and actual was about 60 but the numbers got closer together once on the highway.

Fuel trims also tightened up, fuel pump was running 42-44 psi with a LT Trim of 1.43, which is lower than it had been previously.

We started out with 25% of fuel on board and the spare was still in the garage with all the tools so the truck was pretty light back there. We were pleasantly rewarded with a very nice ride despite being so light in the back. Since the front and rear were done two months apart, we can compare the differences each made to ride and comfort and would say that the rears definitely needed replacing more than the front!

Next is to replace the inner tie rods and boots, get it aligned and then new wheels, sensors and another set of KO2s.

Been hemming and hawing over taller tires and installing that leveling kit but my wife and I sometimes have enough trouble with it stock. We'll just have to take the easier trails should we ever get to Moab or Imogene Trail and such!

 

[swathdiver]

Just got back from a little road trip with my daughter Julia. For about a year I'd been eyeing 9.5 inch Saginaw 14-Bolt Semi-Floaters on LKQ Online and there were a few in Fort Myers at one yard and another in Melbourne. The latter one recently sold and they dropped the prices on the other two to less than $300! So I called and bought one that came out of a 2011 Escalade ESV. That was last week, we ran over today and picked it up.

Julia again learned why I prefer the six and a half foot beds (we had to leave the tailgate down) and how slowing down actually increases your gas mileage! Our 2-way average in the lifted Sierra over 273 miles was 14.60 mpg. 14.82 there and 14.39 back.

The backing plates are wrecked and an axle seal is leaking. It came with the swaybar, panhard bar and upper and lower control arms. The brackets look to be in good shape, you can tell the axle was dragged while probably still attached to the truck. There's little slop and the axle spins the yoke easily. I figured it would for 142K and out of an Escalade driven by a local doctor. It comes with a time and mileage warranty but I have no plans to put it under the Yukon until winter at the earliest. I'll take my time dismantling and inspecting it and making it ready for the truck and will probably put 3.73 gears in it.

There's still another one at that yard for under $300 fellas! LKQ wants $800 for 8.6s with 3.08 gears! LOL

 

[Tonyrodz]

Just got back from a little road trip with my daughter Julia. For about a year I'd been eyeing 9.5 inch Saginaw 14-Bolt Semi-Floaters on LKQ Online and there were a few in Fort Myers at one yard and another in Melbourne. The latter one recently sold and they dropped the prices on the other two to less than $300! So I called and bought one that came out of a 2011 Escalade ESV. That was last week, we ran over today and picked it up.

Julia again learned why I prefer the six and a half foot beds (we had to leave the tailgate down) and how slowing down actually increases your gas mileage! Our 2-way average in the lifted Sierra over 273 miles was 14.60 mpg. 14.82 there and 14.39 back.

The backing plates are wrecked and an axle seal is leaking. It came with the swaybar, panhard bar and upper and lower control arms. The brackets look to be in good shape, you can tell the axle was dragged while probably still attached to the truck. There's little slop and the axle spins the yoke easily. I figured it would for 142K and out of an Escalade driven by a local doctor. It comes with a time and mileage warranty but I have no plans to put it under the Yukon until winter at the earliest. I'll take my time dismantling and inspecting it and making it ready for the truck and will probably put 3.73 gears in it.

There's still another one at that yard for under $300 fellas! LKQ wants $800 for 8.6s with 3.08 gears! LOL

View attachment 347261

What gears did it come with James? 3.08's?

 

[swathdiver]

What gears did it come with James? 3.08's?

All the AXNs in the Cadillacs and Denalis came with 3.42 gears. There might have been some Avalanches with the 6.0 L76 with 3.73s in 2007-2008 but don't remember for sure and there's not many around anyway to bother with unless spotted at a yard.

 

[gooffeyguy]

What is a "semi-floating" axle?

 

[swathdiver]

What is a "semi-floating" axle?

This video explains it more concise than I:

Even though the full floater is obviously more stout, for most of what we do with our trucks, the semi-floater is plenty strong.

 

[gooffeyguy]

This video explains it more concise than I:

Even though the full floater is obviously more stout, for most of what we do with our trucks, the semi-floater is plenty strong.

Got it!

So basically, a semi-floating axle is pretty much like every other solid rear axle setup while a full floating is more like an independent axle.

I just wasn't familiar with that terminology.

 

[swathdiver]

No more P0442, Small Leak! For three years or so we'd been slowly chasing an emissions leak. Like clockwork, right before the truck was due to be refueled the code would set while the truck was off after it failed so many tests. Replacing the gas cap caused the code to set more frequently so it was sent back. I procrastinated for years about buying one of them fancy smoke machines. For the same price, I could throw a bunch of parts at it.

Well, while I was still debating that one in my head, we were dropping the spare for its semi-annual exercise and I asked the kids to crawl under with their phone and take a picture of the canister purge valve. They did and upon examination I was fairly certain that that line was the culprit.

Curiously, the disconnected line to the left, was leftover from the original emissions setup that was replaced when the truck was new and this remnant was left there and it goes up the fill neck. Bought a new canister purge with new style plug and lines and they are plastic, not rubber and shrink wrapped to the purge and should never leak. If it ever does, the whole set up will find itself in the trash for good.

Anyway, no more annoying CELs.

 

[mountie]

I wonder if I have that same setup? I spent some dollars re-doing my " tighten fuel cap" issues, but the warning still comes back? ( My 2005 )

 

[Fless]

No more P0442, Small Leak! For three years or so we'd been slowly chasing an emissions leak. Like clockwork, right before the truck was due to be refueled the code would set while the truck was off after it failed so many tests. Replacing the gas cap caused the code to set more frequently so it was sent back. I procrastinated for years about buying one of them fancy smoke machines. For the same price, I could throw a bunch of parts at it.

Well, while I was still debating that one in my head, we were dropping the spare for its semi-annual exercise and I asked the kids to crawl under with their phone and take a picture of the canister purge valve. They did and upon examination I was fairly certain that that line was the culprit.

Curiously, the disconnected line to the left, was leftover from the original emissions setup that was replaced when the truck was new and this remnant was left there and it goes up the fill neck. Bought a new canister purge with new style plug and lines and they are plastic, not rubber and shrink wrapped to the purge and should never leak. If it ever does, the whole set up will find itself in the trash for good.

Anyway, no more annoying CELs.

View attachment 348314

Hopefully you replaced the canister VENT valve.

 

[swathdiver]

Hopefully you replaced the canister VENT valve.

Yeah, yeah, that's what I meant! LOL Guess I was thinking one thing and typing another even though the photo was right!

The cheapo in me just wanted to replace the hose but the new one is made of a different material. I'll cut the hoses off the old one and throw it in the spare parts bin for the fleet.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Yeah, yeah, that's what I meant! LOL Guess I was thinking one thing and typing another even though the photo was right!

The cheapo in me just wanted to replace the hose but the new one is made of a different material. I'll cut the hoses off the old one and throw it in the spare parts bin for the fleet.

My spare parts bin is overflowing lol!

 

[swathdiver]

Update. So when we changed the condenser we were rewarded with a CEL, the aforementioned B0083-39, the front left Impact Sensor for the airbags. I figured that our fooling around right above there damaged the sensor. And while that's still a possibility, the sensor was on its way out, it was split in half from corrosion.

So after a little investigating, it was determined that PN# 20926379 was the correct piece and were rather scarce and about $160 or so each. So a little more digging and I was able to surmise that the Dorman version, 590-222 was probably made in the same factory in Singapore so one was ordered from Rock Auto at considerable savings.

I used a pic to release the lock and the connector and a 10mm ratcheting wrench to remove the old one and install the new one. If my tool box had the right crow's foot wrench, I might have been able to use the torque wrench to tighten it to 71 inch pounds. I tightened it, but not as tight as it was originally.

On my truck the splash shield had to come down for access. Don't think the Sierra and Silverado trucks need to drop theirs.

To disable the airbags the battery was not disconnected, fuses 40 and 45 were pulled, a 10 and 15 amp fuse respectively. Now when testing the new one, the fuses were put back in and the key turned on, the DIC still had the airbag message and the airbag light was still on, I cycled the key before it finished booting up and this time the light went out. It probably would have gone out had I waited a moment. If it doesn't for you, cycle the key.

So that's it, this little talk should help. 1A Auto on youtube has a good video with a pickup.

 

[swathdiver]

Here's something cool to share. Some time ago we installed the GM Accessory, the 2-Way Advanced Remote Start into the truck. After programming, the option to relearn remotes and keys was taken away in the DIC. However, when using the Tech-2, you no longer have to program every remote again.

Let me explain, my wife's remote quit working and it was the second one programmed. In the menu, it let me choose the number 2 slot to program a new remote to that #2 slot and so we did, just that one and the others kept working and maintained their positions.

Originally, the truck could have 8 remotes programmed to it, now it is limited to 4.

 

[swathdiver]

Gave the truck a full belly full of fuel and then took the fender height measurements and drove over to Sam's Club and borrowed a wall to aim the headlamps. We had to raise them 8 to 10 inches! The fogs are literally pointing at the ground in front of the truck but it was raining so that will have to wait for another day.

The truck looks like it was lifted much more than the numbers suggest but the math doesn't lie!

 

[swathdiver]

The previous owner put LED bulbs in the stock fog light housings and then tapped into the purple wire to power a 20 inch LED light bar in the bumper cut out on the Sierra. While not a fan of adding extra lights to my vehicles anymore, the other night that light bar when turned on lit up the desolate highway we were travelling on. Little chance for a deer or hog to run out onto the road without plenty of warning with the coverage all three provided. Florida law however, does not allow for 5 lights on at once, just 4 and only two can be fogs and only two can be head lights.

Anyway, a few days later the Sierra went off-roading after it rained and the light bar gave up the ghost and one of the stock fogs was half full of water. Upon closer inspection it was discovered that these LED bulbs cooked the housings, cracking and melting them. New stock housings are at least $90 and the bulbs are about $22 each but my daughter didn't want stock as her headlights are LEDs. So Dad, me, did some googling and came across some Morimoto's and when they came in today we put them on.

We moved the mounts over from the originals and RTV'd them into place so they wouldn't move or jiggle and Julia said that they throw out a ton of light to the right and left. I disconnected the burned out light bar and mended the wiring until we replace it later on. Mission accomplished.

For the Yukon, we replaced the rear end links on the sway bar the other day and went to replace the inner tie rods but the new tie rod on the driver's side was not cooperating. Heavy whacks with a 24 oz hammer failed to convince it to release from the knuckle. We looked all over for the 3lb sledge to no avail so I ordered another from Vaughan and it should be here in a few days. Then we'll persuade those tie rods to leave the knuckle for a few minutes while we attach the new inners and put it all back together.

Wisdom teeth and birthday parties and of course the girls' social lives threaten to drag this simple task out to who knows when! LOL