George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Me too, I wonder if they can do something different than a sport mode.
Rocket Man's 2008 Bagged CC Silverado Build AKA "THE MACHINE"
- Thread starter Rocket Man
- Start date
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Thinking about it, if it ran a bit peppier maybe I wouldn't need tow/haul.
OP
OP
I mean, The Beast doesn’t have a sport mode but engaging tow/haul does change the way it shifts enough that it might as well be sport, it revs higher before shifting and downshifts sooner so with my blower it’s pretty damn sporty!
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I already use tow haul mode alot just for the improved drivability.
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I was reading the “ what did you do to your NBS today” thread and the discussion of the Fleece all-on module came up and it was mentioned there’s a version for the NNBS so I looked into it, and then remembered why I didn’t really like their modules. I have Morimoto XB LED fogs with the Morimoto bi-xenon projector retrofits (which open the HID shutter and turn the other bright bulb on when the high beam switch is turned on) and am running LED high beams and I want the fogs to come on when the headlights come on which the Fleece modules don’t do, the fogs only come on with high beams. So...in the tech section is a thread on adding a jumper between the low beam and fog light relay. So I added it and turned the lights on to see if it worked. The driver side had low AND high beams on, along with the fog. Passenger side worked fine. And when I hit high beam, the ds didn’t change at all. Shit. I figured I had caused the problem when I added the jumper- either messed up the BCM or a relay in the fuse box or one of the Moromoto relays. So I pulled things apart and started troubleshooting. During this process my ds high beam LED quit working so I was using a halogen bulb to troubleshoot. I tried swapping relays in the fuse box, in the harness, disconnecting the battery hoping to reset the BCM, hooked up the Tech2 and went through all the menus looking for something. Nothing. Then I looked at the vehicle harness that goes between the truck and headlight/ HID ballast. There’s a split jumper that connects both the high beam shutter and the high beam bulb. It’s supposed to connect to the high beam connector on the harness, and the other headlight connector on the harness connects to the ballast for low beam. What if.... shit. I had the splitter connected to the low beam side so when the low beams were on, the high beam was on too. And the shutter in the projector wasn’t working. I hung my head and ordered a new set of LED high beams. Stupid wiring. There’s so much of it for my headlights it’s confusing. I got my label maker out and labeled the wires. I’ll get everything back together before trying the mod again.
Damn. What a PITA. I still need to upgrade my heads to a retrofit, but I lack the skills or time to do it. My Fleece works for now anyway. I can still use the fogs independently, but do have the “all-on” with the high beam switch. [emoji106]
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The new LED high beams came in, I got everything working right and then did the full-time fog mod. Success! It already has the 4hi mod with the retrofits since the low beam stays on when you hit the highs by design, it just opens the shutter on the Morimoto projector and turns on the high beam in the reflector bowls which are the LED’s. Both my trucks look like UFO’s coming at you now with the markers being white LED and the turns being switchbacks.
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Thank you.
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I have these awesome Kooks longtubes sitting here and I’m itchin to install them. Just kind of worried I’ll bet the old exhaust pulled and won’t be able to make them fit, I’m not real good at welding so I sure hope the y-pipe fits. The rest will be done by a shop. Y plan is to drive it to the exhaust shop first and have them look at the truck and come up with a plan. Then come home, put it up on jack stands and pull the old exhaust, then install the headers and (hopefully without cutting) the y-pipe, and then drive it to the shop with open headers. I’ll be waiting on the updated tune for a couple weeks I’m guessing, so it might still be awhile before I get the idle to sound right.
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I have been trying to fix the damn hyper flash on this truck forever. Nothing I’ve tried has worked and I have tried EVERYTHING as far as load resistors. According to the Tech2 it’s the fronts, and since it has both upper and lower turn signals I can’t tell which ones are causing the issues. I have tried one 3 ohm resistor per circuit, one 6 ohm per bulb, one 3 ohm per bulb, etc. Every time it works with either the key on engine off headlights off, engine running headlights on, engine running with headlights off, key on engine off headlights on etc...it’s driving me absolutely 
. So I was going to buy another used bcm and send it to White Automotive to have the hyper flash disabled which they do for $200. Plus it would cost for a used bcm and shipping both ways. I decided to see if anybody does it cheaper and came across an article from EFI Live that said they partnered with a couple guys to do custom bcm flashing via Autocal. I just ordered a bcm tune from www.btdieselworks.com which they will email to me and I can load it into my Autocal to flash my bcm with. I ordered hyperflash disable and extended remote start run time and unlimited re-starts for the same price as White Automotove, $195 with no shipping. I will update after I receive the tune files. Here’s the article from EFI Live.
https://www.efilive.com/latest/news/bcm-flashing/
. So I was going to buy another used bcm and send it to White Automotive to have the hyper flash disabled which they do for $200. Plus it would cost for a used bcm and shipping both ways. I decided to see if anybody does it cheaper and came across an article from EFI Live that said they partnered with a couple guys to do custom bcm flashing via Autocal. I just ordered a bcm tune from www.btdieselworks.com which they will email to me and I can load it into my Autocal to flash my bcm with. I ordered hyperflash disable and extended remote start run time and unlimited re-starts for the same price as White Automotove, $195 with no shipping. I will update after I receive the tune files. Here’s the article from EFI Live.https://www.efilive.com/latest/news/bcm-flashing/
So the BCM can be changed out between the model years? Also you can use different programs to tune? I was under the impression that you could only use one or the other...
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Last edited:
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Changed out? I’m not changing out the bcm, I’m going to plug my Autocal into the OBD port and flash the bcm with new software provided by the tuner. As for what White Automotive used to do, they required your bcm to be removed and shipped to them and they would program it and send it back so your truck would be down while that happened, or you could buy a new or used bcm and send it to them where they program it to your VIN and add the custom tuning. But regardless, the bcm’s for all the 07-14 1500 trucks and SUV’s are the same afaik, possibly the 2500 and 3500 trucks too.
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
I have been trying to fix the damn hyper flash on this truck forever. Nothing I’ve tried has worked and I have tried EVERYTHING as far as load resistors. According to the Tech2 it’s the fronts, and since it has both upper and lower turn signals I can’t tell which ones are causing the issues. I have tried one 3 ohm resistor per circuit, one 6 ohm per bulb, one 3 ohm per bulb, etc. Every time it works with either the key on engine off headlights off, engine running headlights on, engine running with headlights off, key on engine off headlights on etc...it’s driving me absolutely
https://www.efilive.com/latest/news/bcm-flashing/
White's doesn't actually reflash the BCMs anymore from my understanding. They partnered up with BTdieselworks. They also have a module called the "Autosync" that has some pretty cool features including rolling up or down your windows from the factory remote.
2007-2014 AutoSync (GMT-900) – BT DieselWorks
https://www.btdieselworks.com/collections/electronics/products/autosync
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Yeah I saw that after my other post and I went to their website. You can even disable TPMS with it.
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But...the AutoSync can’t disable hyperflash or extend remote start run time or change DRL settings.
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
Yeah... I kinda want both... lol
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I want to get the exhaust figured out and scheduled before I tear the old off, install the headers and drive it to the shop so I drove a half- hour to an exhaust shop that has awesome reviews. I have been looking for one that does quality custom work and after much research I found one. He supposedly opened at 9. I got there at 9:30. Nobody there so I waited. The guy in the shop next door said he’s usually in at 9. I called and got one of those horrible computer voice things and left a message. No callback. At 10 I drove home. I figured since it was Friday maybe he took a long weekend. Last night he called me back all apologetic, said he drove to Cali and would be back in the shop Tuesday morning. We talked about my truck and what we will be doing. Guess I’ll just have to be patient. The guy did give me his personal cell phone number so I can call him direct on Tuesday morning.
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I pulled the shark fin to CM it and was looking at the gaskets to see where they might leak at. (Mine doesn’t) I noticed there’s an inner gasket around where the bolt is, and an outer gasket. It looks to me like the inner one is the seal to the inside and the outer one is the seal to the circuit board. The outer has a gap built into the rear that must allow condensation to escape and it looks like the big outer gasket seals between the base and the cover, and acts as a cushion against the body but not a seal but it does seal the upper from the lower if that makes sense. The bolt pulls down in the area around the smaller inner seal only. Anyway..I sanded the cover smooth and had just enough color to paint it once. It came out perfect. Then I guess I didn’t shake the clear long enough because it came out white and ruined the whole thing, so I stripped it and painted it satin black to match the rest of the black shit I painted. Dammit.!
