Magnuson Supercharger, Valve Train and other supporting mods. 2007-2013, 5.3L Chevy Tahoe

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

OP
OP
Chrismnj

Chrismnj

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2015
Posts
1,227
Reaction score
2,121
Location
NJ
I paid $900 for my Kooks headers, #28502400 and the Y pipe was $525 I believe... The headers I ordered from Johnny at justboltons.com and email him for the best price. Y pipe I ordered from Maryland speed which I can't recommend if you want them quick. There's a few dealers here that can get you a good deal and might even have them in stock.

huge difference on a Y pipe, what's the difference between Y pipe 28553300, 28553200 and 28553100?
 

67RS427

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2017
Posts
595
Reaction score
1,217
huge difference on a Y pipe, what's the difference between Y pipe 28553300, 28553200 and 28553100?
Not sure without looking them up but my part number was 28543200... I had an extra one I sold on here for under $500 so I'm pretty sure mine was free. That is the number for the high flow performance cats and then they make a "Green" cat and a cat less version. I ended up gutting mine after 2k miles. Sounds nasty AF.
 
OP
OP
Chrismnj

Chrismnj

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2015
Posts
1,227
Reaction score
2,121
Location
NJ
Not sure without looking them up but my part number was 28543200... I had an extra one I sold on here for under $500 so I'm pretty sure mine was free. That is the number for the high flow performance cats and then they make a "Green" cat and a cat less version. I ended up gutting mine after 2k miles. Sounds nasty AF.

Yeah 200 are in $500-$600 range, and 300 is over 1k
 

67RS427

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2017
Posts
595
Reaction score
1,217
huge difference on a Y pipe, what's the difference between Y pipe 28553300, 28553200 and 28553100?
28543300 is the GREEN cats and 28553100 has none.... Get the 3200 but certainly don't pay more than $600
 
OP
OP
Chrismnj

Chrismnj

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2015
Posts
1,227
Reaction score
2,121
Location
NJ
28543300 is the GREEN cats and 28553100 has none.... Get the 3200 but certainly don't pay more than $600


Screen Shot 2019-01-23 at 10.00.36 PM.png
 
OP
OP
Chrismnj

Chrismnj

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2015
Posts
1,227
Reaction score
2,121
Location
NJ
Also about the headers... whatever you go with, I would recommend getting them ceramic coated if you can't order them already coated.

found a place near me that does ceramic coatings. do you know how expensive service like that is?
 

kbuskill

***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
Joined
Mar 11, 2017
Posts
5,825
Reaction score
9,836
Location
NE. FL.

67RS427

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2017
Posts
595
Reaction score
1,217
Check it out...
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/bbp-independent-intake-test-results.41254/

The Dropbox link is broken but if you read through the comments you will get the jist of it.

The stock accordion style intake tube with all the silencers is the weak link/downfall of the stock system.
That does not take into consideration a supercharger. Specifically with a positive Displacement Blower, any restrictions whatsoever before the throttle body are a major loss for HP. I'm running the same AirAid box and filter he bought with a 5" intake tube. I gaurentee it makes more power than any modified stock intake. OP is installing a blower... Those intake tests mean nothing.
 
OP
OP
Chrismnj

Chrismnj

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2015
Posts
1,227
Reaction score
2,121
Location
NJ
That does not take into consideration a supercharger. Specifically with a positive Displacement Blower, any restrictions whatsoever before the throttle body are a major loss for HP. I'm running the same AirAid box and filter he bought with a 5" intake tube. I gaurentee it makes more power than any modified stock intake. OP is installing a blower... Those intake tests mean nothing.

I guess it's possible to modify AirAid to include additional air inlet from a fender.
 

kbuskill

***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
Joined
Mar 11, 2017
Posts
5,825
Reaction score
9,836
Location
NE. FL.
That does not take into consideration a supercharger. Specifically with a positive Displacement Blower, any restrictions whatsoever before the throttle body are a major loss for HP. I'm running the same AirAid box and filter he bought with a 5" intake tube. I gaurentee it makes more power than any modified stock intake. OP is installing a blower... Those intake tests mean nothing.

I understand what your saying and I agree. I wish I could remember where I found the info for how many CFM the stock air box could flow. Unfortunately I can't seem to find the info now but it was quite a bit.

***edit***

Here are a couple things I found...

rps20190124_004216_199.jpg

rps20190124_004301_726.jpg

Not the CFM ratings I was looking for but circumstantial evidence at least.

I know in the Magnuson supercharger install manual it tells you to swap the paper filter for a K&N style filter and hook the new intake pipe that comes with the maggy to your stock air box.

I believe most other brands recommend the same.

Not trying to argue or start a fight just saying that the stock air box is not as restrictive as some might think.
 
Last edited:

kbuskill

***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
Joined
Mar 11, 2017
Posts
5,825
Reaction score
9,836
Location
NE. FL.
only headers correct?

Yes... Again that is just a guess.

I would check with powder coasters in your area as some of those guys do ceramic coating as well... if not they can probably tell you who does it in your area.

Also make sure the do the inside of the headers as well.
 
OP
OP
Chrismnj

Chrismnj

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2015
Posts
1,227
Reaction score
2,121
Location
NJ
Long tube for sure, only question is how big... Bigger the better for forced induction down the road (1 7/8" or 2"). Mine are 1 7/8" because I believe that's the largest you can go on the trucks. Spark plug changes aren't easy, not gonna lie unless you remove wheel well liners. Our engine bays get cramped quick.

If you're not going forced induction, go with the smaller long tubes so you retain as much low end torque as possible. Throttle body spacer I can't comment on for N/A applications. I welded one to my supercharger snout to open it up to 102mm and use the O ring and I can say it definitely helped with air flow and was required so my supercharger pulley didn't hit the throttle body without flipping it upside down.

As far as spark plugs, wires and coils what would you recommend?
 

12BlackTahoe

Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2019
Posts
68
Reaction score
46
I guess it's possible to modify AirAid to include additional air inlet from a fender.

Problem solved. I did some math and that's what i came up with.

K&N drop in has 220.22 SqIn
AirAid oval cone has 246.88 SqIn of real estate
so 26.66 SqIn more than any drop in. So in you add the cutout as on OEM box i can't see how factory box will outperform AirAid box in addition AirAid has that tube going down to get the cold air in from under the truck. also being open on the top and sealed from the engine bay and having air forced in through around light assembly, and superchargers intake tube is shorter and more direct than any tube of any air intake system. Please correct me if I am wrong.
 
Last edited:

67RS427

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2017
Posts
595
Reaction score
1,217
As far as spark plugs, wires and coils what would you recommend?
I'd go with a NGK one stage colder than a stock LSA. That would be a NGK TR7IX if you want the "best" iridium plug. However, I will say after going through two sets of them that depending on your boost levels, you may wanna skip the expensive iridium and go with a standard copper plug. I don't want or care if a plug lasts 100k miles with my 900hp "race" engine. I'm more than happy to do spark plug changes every 3k-10k miles on a race truck like mine. So in that case, the cheaper traditional copper plugs actually work much better with high cylinder pressure and will work better with more boost. Right now I'm running the NGK BP7EFS (3526). It took my forever to find a #7 plug that was copper and not platinum or iridium but my truck is much much happier with that plug. It's cheaper too and idles way better, motor is happier in general but I'm also running 15psi which is a higher cylinder pressure.
 

donjetman

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2018
Posts
1,988
Reaction score
3,645
Last edited:

Forum statistics

Threads
137,809
Posts
1,992,715
Members
102,794
Latest member
Drewphil
Back
Top