Coolant in Oil - What Now?

[swathdiver]

Hey! We don't need that negative attitude around here!

Let's say that did happen... Would I be able to tell if that's what happened if it still makes the same knocking sound when I get it running again?

Probably, get the front up so you can crawl under with a stethoscope or extension and listen as someone starts and lets it idle for a moment. If there's a knock down there you'll know it. In all likelihood it would just affect the bearings and you could replace them plus whatever caused the leak and get that engine back in service.

Let's see what the other guys think.

 

[SnowDrifter]

A little more in depth, but you can drop the pan and plastigauge bearings too

 

[Justinj360]

Was just thinking... Shouldn't I have gotten an engine code or two by now?

 

[PatDTN]

I'm surprised no one with real knowledge has responded. My guess is that the engine is doing most of what it should and only the knock sensors are being messed with. If you're down on power it's probably that the spark is being retarded to try to stop knocking.

You're not losing compression over this yet, no large amounts of blowby affecting the O2 sensors, etc.

Just my thoughts, not real knowledge on the subject.

Pat in Tennessee

 

[Scottydoggs]

a lot of the time when you have coolant in the oil its leaked past a piston to reach the oil, then if the coolant pools on top of the piston when you crank the engine the coolant acts like a block and thats what kills the bearing for ya.

not that super thinned watered down oil cant spin one either. if you felt the engine crank and kinda stop for a second, or stop 100% it got hydro locked. aka coolant a top the piston.

that drain pan is super full your engine only holds 5 qts, that looks to be 3 times that amount in the drain pan.

if you have a oil cooler dont forget to flush that out, its full of milk shake too. especially if you end up with a new or used engine, you dont want that mess to be introduced to the new clean set up.

 

[Justinj360]

a lot of the time when you have coolant in the oil its leaked past a piston to reach the oil, then if the coolant pools on top of the piston when you crank the engine the coolant acts like a block and thats what kills the bearing for ya.

not that super thinned watered down oil cant spin one either. if you felt the engine crank and kinda stop for a second, or stop 100% it got hydro locked. aka coolant a top the piston.

that drain pan is super full your engine only holds 5 qts, that looks to be 3 times that amount in the drain pan.

if you have a oil cooler dont forget to flush that out, its full of milk shake too. especially if you end up with a new or used engine, you dont want that mess to be introduced to the new clean set up.

It definitely cranked and started normally besides the knocking. I plugged the drain pan's reservoir so
I could easily take a picture. That's why it looks so full. I didn't think of the oil cooler. Thanks for that. Would it not flush with the rest of the oil though?

 

[Scottydoggs]

if you just hook the lines up to the new engine what in the lines and cooler is now in your engine. unless you flush it all out.

if your engine is savable, it will take a at least two oil changes to clean it all up. in a row within 30 minutes type deal. fill run dump repeat. and have extra oil filters too for them oil changes.

 

[PatDTN]

If you're doing the back to back oil changes you can dump in some Marvel Mystery Oil on the first load for better cleaning.

Pat in Tennessee

 

[Justinj360]

if you just hook the lines up to the new engine what in the lines and cooler is now in your engine. unless you flush it all out.

if your engine is savable, it will take a at least two oil changes to clean it all up. in a row within 30 minutes type deal. fill run dump repeat. and have extra oil filters too for them oil changes.

I don't think I've mentioned it yet but I have already flushed the engine with diesel twice. New filters for each time and I'm planning on flushing with an oil change after that.

 

[Justinj360]

If you're doing the back to back oil changes you can dump in some Marvel Mystery Oil on the first load for better cleaning.

Pat in Tennessee

I've heard of that and I'll have to look into it. Thanks.

 

[Justinj360]

Easiest way--On the driver side, look all the way to the lower right(rear of the head) , you'll see a 3 digit # stamped on the head, that'll tell you what head casting you have--on the pass side that number is all the way to the right(front of the head)View attachment 205981

I haven't forgotten about this. Just been busy lately. I'll look as soon as I can.

 

[SnowDrifter]

Was just thinking... Shouldn't I have gotten an engine code or two by now?

The engine doesn't have any sensors that can measure bearing clearances, so there's nothing to throw a code. Only exception to that would be if it's worn to the point where the engine can no longer function normally - such as if the camshaft has worn out and is no longer providing enough lift, in which case you'd see misfire codes. Same goes for timing chain, low oil pressure

 

[Justinj360]

The engine doesn't have any sensors that can measure bearing clearances, so there's nothing to throw a code. Only exception to that would be if it's worn to the point where the engine can no longer function normally - such as if the camshaft has worn out and is no longer providing enough lift, in which case you'd see misfire codes. Same goes for timing chain, low oil pressure

Gotcha. Wasn't sure if a knock sensor or something would throw a code.

 

[PatDTN]

Any updates on this?

Pat in Tennessee

 

[Justinj360]

Any updates on this?

Pat in Tennessee

No, not yet unfortunately. I received the last part yesterday so I should be good to go when I have some free time. Hoping for this weekend. I did send the oil sample off to get analyzed last week though.

 

[Justinj360]

I haven't forgotten about this. Just been busy lately. I'll look as soon as I can.

Mine say 862. What does that mean?

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Mine say 862. What does that mean?

It means you're PROBABLY in better shape than if they said 706.

 

[Tonyrodz]

862's are supposed to be good heads. Had them on my 4.8

 

[Justinj360]

862's are supposed to be good heads. Had them on my 4.8

Okay good to know. That's some of the best news I've had on this so far.

 

[mattt]

862's are supposedly good, but don't count your chickens till they hatch, err....crack. I have 862's on my '04 Tahoe 5.3 and they're showing signs of being cracked. Just got an oil analysis sample results back and I have water and coolant in the engine oil. I have to add water/coolant every week. It is now causing increased bearing wear due to water in the oil. I thought I was in the clear with 862's in reading they're typically better, but that is not always the case. Now looking for a good pair of 862's or other less expensive fix for my 275k mileage Tahoe. A full rebuild is out of the budget, especially given the cost of it vs. the value of a high mileage 04 Tahoe. It's really a bummer because the rest of the Tahoe is in decent shape, other than needing a front sup & steering rebuild.