When is it not worth it to repair?

[thefrey]

2013 YXL Denali is the pinicle of Gen III. Buying it w/ high milage was a gift. It’s the last Gen that allows backwards compatible used electronic parts as well as previously programmed parts as new, and drop right in.

Lastly when the motor goes or you replace it with a L9H clone from Jasper you’re good for another 1-200k mi. You can also drop in a 10L80 10SP trans when the OEM 6SP goes. Milage & performance goes up and 99% of the known issues w/ the 6.2L platform are cured.

Hell, do the motor & trans at same time.

Why do you say that buying it with high mileage was a gift? That is the first time I've heard that...

Or are you just saying since it's a gift b/c it's easy to swap parts into.

 

[OR VietVet]

Love this decision matrix. An eminently helpful series of questions to ask and run through when pondering a change. Clear-headed and wise.

So many times, decisions like this, are made with emotions and not a straight thought process. Think it through and then, only then, make the decision that is usually the second most expensive thing/item that someone owns.

 

[thefrey]

Inspection came back.

Mechanic said it is confirmed lifter tick.

Says I also need:

- New front and rear brakes
- New front and rear shocks / struts
- New front and control arms with ball joints / bushings (unsure if whole control arms need replaced)

Quoted $5,500 for all of this.

Feeling discouraged at this point, since magneride suspension isn't exactly cheap... Also since I will need DOD delete eventually, as well as maybe a new torque converter... I have the ability to do some of this stuff, but not everything due to the tools/workspace situation I am in being in an apartment.


Seems like I am staring at a wall of 6-10k to keep er' road worthy.

Thoughts? Words of wisdom or advice? Suck it up and try do all the work myself? Delete magneride? Take the money and run?

 

[OR VietVet]

The add on needs of the brakes, shocks, struts and suspension have nothing to do with the engine. Were you having any problems with these or were these just "found" in the shop? I am sure it is all about a "free" inspection.

 

[thefrey]

The add on needs of the brakes, shocks, struts and suspension have nothing to do with the engine. Were you having any problems with these or were these just "found" in the shop? I am sure it is all about a "free" inspection.

I did pay I think $40.

Firestone lol. I’m probably going to get flamed for that. My work paid for it, though and that’s where they usually take their vehicles.

I wasn’t particularly impressed with the depth of their inspection, though. I might actually take it to another shop to get some more in depth recommendations.

I know I needed brakes soon. I don’t feel like my shocks and struts need replaced, but I might just be “nose blind” to the issues. They also said bushings were shot on control arms

 

[j91z28d1]

I have pretty missed something, but you do a afm delete when have a bad lifter so it's a one time thing. you wouldn't repair the afm stuff and then delete later

 

[thefrey]

I have pretty missed something, but you do a afm delete when have a bad lifter so it's a one time thing. you wouldn't repair the afm stuff and then delete later

Maybe I missed something too lol. But I am for sure not going to “repair” AFM at all. Going to delete it and throw it out the window if I do anything

 

[DDSolutions]

I thought I had ruled out an exhaust leak but I don’t know lol.

I am having it checked out by a shop on Friday when I get my oil change done, so hopefully they will be able to help diagnose it.

Let us know how it goes!! Depends on the placement of the leak, this little gadget fixed mine. Easy to put on towards the front of the motor but gets kinda tight towards the firewall. But I have big meathooks. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OZVPC2G?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1

 

[petethepug]

I just moved forward on the entire enchilada. Rode the MagRide til 190k mi on our 09 Esky til it played carnival music because the bounce house ride was insane.

Ceramic brakes cured the messy brake dust and longevity issue. Hot galve coated x drilled & slotted discs cured the warped rotor / pad residue issue.

OEM GM auto / mag ride guaranteed for life permanently cured the shock issue. Recently had the entire front end rebuilt w/ a $149 Detroit Axle rack. Just Damn! It’s worth every penny because there’s no gouging on Reg fees, Insurance and they’re so ez to work on. Parts (off rock auto) are so damn inexpensive too.

Be prepared for parts to skyrocket though…

Auto Parts Supplier's Bankruptcy Spells Potential Trouble for Loads of People Who Own a Car, Truck, or SUV

Do you repair your own vehicle or use an independent shop? Your repair costs and time without your vehicle could both increase thanks to First Brands Group's bankruptcy.

www.motortrend.com

 

[thefrey]

I just moved forward on the entire enchilada. Rode the MagRide til 190k mi on our 09 Esky til it played carnival music because the bounce house ride was insane.

Ceramic brakes cured the messy brake dust and longevity issue. Hot galve coated x drilled & slotted discs cured the warped rotor / pad residue issue.

OEM GM auto / mag ride guaranteed for life permanently cured the shock issue. Recently had the entire front end rebuilt w/ a $149 Detroit Axle rack. Just Damn! It’s worth every penny because there’s no gouging on Reg fees, Insurance and they’re so ez to work on. Parts (off rock auto) are so damn inexpensive too.

Be prepared for parts to skyrocket though…

Auto Parts Supplier's Bankruptcy Spells Potential Trouble for Loads of People Who Own a Car, Truck, or SUV

Do you repair your own vehicle or use an independent shop? Your repair costs and time without your vehicle could both increase thanks to First Brands Group's bankruptcy.

www.motortrend.com

You see.. I'm not hearing carnival music yet. I was told by them that "the boots are torn on the magride and the dust has ruined them" and they said that there was "excess vibration" on the road, but it rides like butter...

I'm done LOL.

Brakes do need done, though. Ceramic brakes might be a good idea if I decide to do brakes before I sell it.

 

[petethepug]

I said lucky on the high milage because (vs 4-5 yrs ago) you have the option to wait for the motor to die and replace with a Jasper L9H clone and a 10L80 10SP trans that out performs the original truck’s longevity, performance and MPG.

A Non AFM 403hp, e85 10SP truck with Gen III architecture immune from all the future flaws is priceless.

You have AutoRide, not MagRide on a Denali. Do not delete! If it rides like butter it’s working. Bouncy house = failure. OEM factory replacements are guaranteed for LIFE.

 

[tagexpcom]

For example, I have a 'bought new' 2004 Cadillac SRX V8 AWD w/174K and it's running perfectly and interior is in good shape etc. However, it does cost 'real' money every year to keep it up.

My 2021 Yukon Denali is the replacement but I tell myself it's nice to have the SRX as a backup... but of course this is not $ logical as I also have full insurance + towing and the Yukon is running perfectly well and I live in a sizeable city with lot's of options for emergencies.

Sigh - it's a case by case basis for me. As long as it keep running smooth / pleasure to drive.....

My previous old car developed a 'shaking' at >60mph that was not fixed by regular things (wheel balance, ball joints) so I did CA's $1000 if you turn in you're old car as I just couldn't stand the shaking / was unpleasant to drive. But after 20+ yrs of memories it was emotional - a little like putting down a pet.

 

[Scrappycrow]

OEM GM auto / mag ride guaranteed for life permanently cured the shock issue.

What supplier provides that guarantee?

 

[Trilla_one]

For example, I have a 'bought new' 2004 Cadillac SRX V8 AWD w/174K and it's running perfectly and interior is in good shape etc. However, it does cost 'real' money every year to keep it up.

I can't recall ever seeing a 1st gen SRX in person

 

[B-train]

I have asked this variation of question. I like to pick peoples brains on stuff like this who know a lot more about this than I do.

My 6.2 has got a tick, not a collapsed lifter tick, but definitely a tick. 40+ psi cold, 35 cruising, 20 idle. It feels healthy but sometimes doesn’t sound healthy at lower RPMs. I have just kind of accepted it is the “Chevy” tick. It might be camshaft related from the last owner.

It will probably need an AFM delete eventually. I’m just kind of waiting until something breaks.

I may just drive it till it drops at this point. I think a lot of this has to do with opinions. But I’ve got 212k+ and I’m driving 2-3k a month. Is an AFM delete even worth it at this mileage? Or any other large repair? When is it not worth it to repair AFM or at all?

My opinion always revolves around corrosion. After dealing with people's rusty crap for many years, I have grown to loathe rust with a passion. I will straight up ditch a vehicle that starts to rust out because I know what the hidden costs are down the road.

That being said, if it's a rusty critter, then drive it until failure because it's not worth fixing with big $$ for something that will eventually nickel and dime you to death.

If you live in a rust free area and fall under the criteria that @OR VietVet laid out, then I'd say you need to work what's best for you. But, rust free and a few thousand $$ is way cheaper than a 100k POS that the engine might grenade at 2800 miles or 80,000 miles...... every day driving is like going to Vegas with your paycheck.

At least you know your "tick" hasn't left you high and dry at this point, so you have that going for you.

 

[petethepug]

What supplier provides that guarantee?

Seller honors the GM warranty. My replacement mag struts are from RockAuto. Figured they seem like a long term supplier.

 

[Scrappycrow]

Seller honors the GM warranty. My replacement mag struts are from RockAuto. Figured they seem like a long term supplier.

Thanks! I was unaware it was a GM warranty.

As of right now, they only show the rear GM Genuine shocks as available.

 

[tagexpcom]

I can't recall ever seeing a 1st gen SRX in person

Here's a couple of pics I had handy - you might go, yes, I've seen this
One of the fun things about this is car is the 'clutch less shifter' - fun to re-live the late 70s when all we did all day was red-line up 1st -> 2nd (and try to peel the tires) -> 3rd... almost every block!

This SRX manually shifts without having to mess with a clutch, just toggle the stick, but of course can't pop the the tires -> 2nd as it's too smooth.

\

 

[Trilla_one]

Here's a couple of pics I had handy - you might go, yes, I've seen this
One of the fun things about this is car is the 'clutch less shifter' - fun to re-live the late 70s when all we did all day was red-line up 1st -> 2nd (and try to peel the tires) -> 3rd... almost every block!

This SRX manually shifts without having to mess with a clutch, just toggle the stick, but of course can't pop the the tires -> 2nd as it's too smooth.
View attachment 471939
View attachment 471937\
View attachment 471938

Looks like you did a good job keeping it up. I'd hold on to it too

 

[thefrey]

My opinion always revolves around corrosion. After dealing with people's rusty crap for many years, I have grown to loathe rust with a passion. I will straight up ditch a vehicle that starts to rust out because I know what the hidden costs are down the road.

That being said, if it's a rusty critter, then drive it until failure because it's not worth fixing with big $$ for something that will eventually nickel and dime you to death.

If you live in a rust free area and fall under the criteria that @OR VietVet laid out, then I'd say you need to work what's best for you. But, rust free and a few thousand $$ is way cheaper than a 100k POS that the engine might grenade at 2800 miles or 80,000 miles...... every day driving is like going to Vegas with your paycheck.

At least you know your "tick" hasn't left you high and dry at this point, so you have that going for you.

Well, I just had this happen tonight. Decided to take it through a car wash and had a feeling this might happen. Not super happy...

I am not sure why this side is so bad. Perhaps has something to do with the body damage on the door from the last owner. The other side is not nearly as bad. It is starting to bubble, but I'm sure it is bad if I was to sand it down.

I now need to decide if I want to cut out the panels myself or just let it ride... the frame isn't too bad. everything seems cosmetic right now.