When is it not worth it to repair?

[thefrey]

I have asked this variation of question. I like to pick peoples brains on stuff like this who know a lot more about this than I do.

My 6.2 has got a tick, not a collapsed lifter tick, but definitely a tick. 40+ psi cold, 35 cruising, 20 idle. It feels healthy but sometimes doesn’t sound healthy at lower RPMs. I have just kind of accepted it is the “Chevy” tick. It might be camshaft related from the last owner.

It will probably need an AFM delete eventually. I’m just kind of waiting until something breaks.

I may just drive it till it drops at this point. I think a lot of this has to do with opinions. But I’ve got 212k+ and I’m driving 2-3k a month. Is an AFM delete even worth it at this mileage? Or any other large repair? When is it not worth it to repair AFM or at all?

 

[SpareParts]

That is up to you and what you are willing to do to keep it going.
Personally, I will dump money into a vehicle i like just because i enjoy working on and driving them. Kinda my hobby i guess.
What do you want to do with it?

 

[OR VietVet]

I dealt with this in the shops I ran. I would tell a vehicle owner whether the vehicle was worth fixing, DEPENDING on the answers to these questions and responses to the suggestions:

1. When the vehicle is running right or working right, do you like the vehicle?
2. Does the vehicle meet your needs?
3. Were you wanting to get a different vehicle?
4. Can you afford a new vehicle?
5. Would you have to buy a used vehicle if you buy a different vehicle?
6. I would tell them that a new vehicle comes with payments unless they can buy it outright.
7. If you buy used, you are likely buying an unknown and will need to put some money in it either immediately or soon. You already know your maintenance and history on the current vehicle.
8. Depending on what you buy, the insurance may be more than what you pay now.

 

[OR VietVet]

I used to run shops in KC, Mo. Hot summers and cold winters. If a customer came in at end of summer with a malfunctioning a/c system, I would encourage them to wait for the repair till the spring time. GOD forbid, they spend lots of money fixing the a/c in the fall and not use it and then get in an accident in the winter and never get to use the a/c they just paid lots of $ to fix.

 

[Doubeleive]

I don't know, I keep my vehicles as nice as I reasonably can without going crazy, if mine is worth $4k and the engine takes a crap and it cost's me another $4k to get it back on the road I guess I would rather do that than buy another one for a lot more.
Maybe if it got wrecked so bad it is basically unfixable, then I have no other choice.
nothing rust's here so rust is not a issue
It's been paid off for years, so it's only maintenance
I have no desire to impress the neighbors either I would rather have 3-4-5 older good running vehicles that I can buy all together for less than a new one

 

[homesick]

I don't know, I keep my vehicles as nice as I reasonably can without going crazy, if mine is worth $4k and the engine takes a crap and it cost's me another $4k to get it back on the road I guess I would rather do that than buy another one for a lot more.
Maybe if it got wrecked so bad it is basically unfixable, then I have no other choice.
nothing rust's here so rust is not a issue
It's been paid off for years, so it's only maintenance
I have no desire to impress the neighbors either I would rather have 3-4-5 older good running vehicles that I can buy all together for less than a new one

Better the devil you know, than the one you don't.

joe

 

[Scrappycrow]

For me, it's when the time/effort/$$$ can't be justified for the purpose/use of the vehicle, even if something is doable.

If your Yukon is otherwise in good shape, suits your needs, doesn't have known impending issues, and you can swing the expense and downtime to swap the engine or otherwise fix the AFM system, I'd do that. Compare that expense to a payment (if that's what you'd be doing).

As @homesick said, better the devil you know, than the one you don't. The dollar value needs to be updated, but in the '80s BMW world, there's long been the "$2K Rule." Any vehicle you buy in any condition is going to need at least $2K invested in it in the first year or two of ownership. I'd say that value is up to $4K these days. Do you want to find another Yukon and have to deal with unknowns and $4K+ of fixes, or deal with your known Yukon and the AFM issue?

 

[j91z28d1]

it all comes down to if you work on them yourself or pay a shop to fix stuff.


yourself, keep it rolling. if you're paying a shop a lot of money for bad repairs. I'd probably cycle thru used vehicles first before dealing with that.

the chevy tick might just be an exhaust manifold bolt of you haven't checked for missing ones. they pop off and tick when cold.

 

[Trilla_one]

it all comes down to if you work on them yourself or pay a shop to fix stuff.

I used to think so too, but every time I see an 80 year old lady driving around a 30+ year old car it makes me wonder...



This vehicle checks all the boxes that all my previous vehicles lacked one or some of(ground clearance/towing capacity/space/highway passing power). Nothing in a brand new Tahoe that I need.

Worst comes to worst i'd likely make sure there is a reliable vehicle around(some affordable lease) that the wife has and I drive if necessary. Park the Tahoe and work on whatever is wrong when I can.

Guaranteed if I sell it I would regret it ten years down the road whenever I see one.

 

[Bigburb3500]

You got some sound advise here already. Last piece I will add too, even if a $4-8k repair bill is potentially not feasible out of pocket there are loan products like Lightstream (if you have solid credit) that can do low interest unsecured loans that have pmts a LOT less than a $15-30k auto loan with similar potential maintenance headaches.

If you see any of my posts I bought a 18 Sub just because my 1999 Toyota had become too small for my growing family. It’s still in the driveway but it was only “replaced” because it no longer was accomplishing the needs of my family.

 

[mikez71]

When you ask a question like this, you do realize you're hurting your truck's feelings?

You can make up for it, by buying some new parts...

(But don't stay in a bad relationship!)

 

[CaptainMurray]

I usually don't buy until it has over 300k. If the cost of a repairs in a year are less than payments for a year, I repair it.

My autos 2020 and 2005 look new inside and out, I keep them up. Never go to the dealer, local shop if I can't fix it. I wish I still had my 2007 Tahoe.

 

[fozzi58]

It will probably need an AFM delete eventually. I’m just kind of waiting until something breaks.

You realize that if a lifter lets loose, it may not just be a lifter or a wiped out cam that you need to replace. There's the potential that it can break a valve, drop it in the cylinder and potentially cause more catastrophic damage. I am not saying that is the norm, but it has happened more than once.

If you are really concerned about longevity of the vehicle, do the cam and lifters (AFM mechanical delete) sooner rather than later.

 

[drno4]

I dealt with this in the shops I ran. I would tell a vehicle owner whether the vehicle was worth fixing, DEPENDING on the answers to these questions and responses to the suggestions:

1. When the vehicle is running right or working right, do you like the vehicle?
2. Does the vehicle meet your needs?
3. Were you wanting to get a different vehicle?
4. Can you afford a new vehicle?
5. Would you have to buy a used vehicle if you buy a different vehicle?
6. I would tell them that a new vehicle comes with payments unless they can buy it outright.
7. If you buy used, you are likely buying an unknown and will need to put some money in it either immediately or soon. You already know your maintenance and history on the current vehicle.
8. Depending on what you buy, the insurance may be more than what you pay now.

Love this decision matrix. An eminently helpful series of questions to ask and run through when pondering a change. Clear-headed and wise.

 

[Marky Dissod]

It will probably need an AFM delete eventually. I’m just kind of waiting until something breaks.
I may just drive it till it drops at this point. I think a lot of this has to do with opinions. But I’ve got 212k+ and I’m driving 2-3k a month.
Is an AFM delete even worth it at this mileage? Or any other large repair? When is it not worth it to repair AFM or at all?

If

Maintenance pays and breakdowns cost

and 1oz of maintenance is worth at least 1lb of cure,
then ... are you asking because you're seriously thinking about comparison shopping?

If you can find a GMT900 with a 6.2L for less than the cost of an engine transplant, congratulations.
Otherwise, turn your L94 into an L92 already. If the unlikely event you regret it,
it'll be worth a premium when you sell it, because they won't have to defuse Engine Half@$$.

 

[petethepug]

2013 YXL Denali is the pinicle of Gen III. Buying it w/ high milage was a gift. It’s the last Gen that allows backwards compatible used electronic parts as well as previously programmed parts as new, and drop right in.

Lastly when the motor goes or you replace it with a L9H clone from Jasper you’re good for another 1-200k mi. You can also drop in a 10L80 10SP trans when the OEM 6SP goes. Milage & performance goes up and 99% of the known issues w/ the 6.2L platform are cured.

Hell, do the motor & trans at same time.

 

[the 18th letter]

My bank account determines when a car is not worth it to repair anymore. Last 3 vehicles I purchased were due to a nice bank account and that 1 repair that broke the camels back.

 

[fuelcell]

I don't know, I keep my vehicles as nice as I reasonably can without going crazy, if mine is worth $4k and the engine takes a crap and it cost's me another $4k to get it back on the road I guess I would rather do that than buy another one for a lot more.
Maybe if it got wrecked so bad it is basically unfixable, then I have no other choice.
nothing rust's here so rust is not a issue
It's been paid off for years, so it's only maintenance
I have no desire to impress the neighbors either I would rather have 3-4-5 older good running vehicles that I can buy all together for less than a new one

I am with you I have 4 vehicles one I am paying still as it is a 24 4runner last of the 5th gens. Most I would do what is necessary much cheaper than the overpriced crap they are putting out now.

 

[DDSolutions]

I have asked this variation of question. I like to pick peoples brains on stuff like this who know a lot more about this than I do.

My 6.2 has got a tick, not a collapsed lifter tick, but definitely a tick. 40+ psi cold, 35 cruising, 20 idle. It feels healthy but sometimes doesn’t sound healthy at lower RPMs. I have just kind of accepted it is the “Chevy” tick. It might be camshaft related from the last owner.

It will probably need an AFM delete eventually. I’m just kind of waiting until something breaks.

I may just drive it till it drops at this point. I think a lot of this has to do with opinions. But I’ve got 212k+ and I’m driving 2-3k a month. Is an AFM delete even worth it at this mileage? Or any other large repair? When is it not worth it to repair AFM or at all?

Just a thought, but a few years ago I had a tick and thought the worst. It turned out to be a small leak on the left side exhaust manifold. U have probably ruled that out, but just in case...

 

[thefrey]

Just a thought, but a few years ago I had a tick and thought the worst. It turned out to be a small leak on the left side exhaust manifold. U have probably ruled that out, but just in case...

I thought I had ruled out an exhaust leak but I don’t know lol.

I am having it checked out by a shop on Friday when I get my oil change done, so hopefully they will be able to help diagnose it.