When is it not worth it to repair?

[Sir_Hiro]

My Rules for fixing or Replacing has always been if I'm spending more time fixing the car than driving. I dont have the time to be working on it every other time I take it out.

Rust isnt a huge deal to me unless it gets the frame..but I spending most of the fall undercoating all my stuff every year and so far all frames are ok. I'm in Michigan rust is just a way of life. It sucks but if its only cosmetic rust then I'll just ignore it. And for the cars I dont want to rust they get parked at the first snowfall.

 

[thefrey]

I will straight up ditch a vehicle that starts to rust out because I know what the hidden costs are down the road.

I have been thinking about this...

I may be one of the younger guys on this forum. I say that because I don't have what you have: experience... I am young and naive so leaning on people's experience and wisdom is a huge help for me.

I haven't dealt with a rusty car before. I don't know what the best course of action is since I will probably need a DOD delete here soon, plus whatever maintenance of "while I'm in there", plus I need brakes/rotors and a few simple suspension items. I am coming up on 215k miles.

I replied to this specifically since you have dealt with this issue before; it worth touching the rust, or should I cut my losses and get rid of it while I'm ahead?

I have the ability to use a friend's barn to cut out panels and weld new ones in. I would ideally like to do the repair. This is my daily and my only car, so I don't like the idea of it becoming a total unsightly rust bucket. I can only assume that would be a repair that would last 3-5 years since rust always comes back. I have not done body work before or paint, but I want to learn. I have welded... but I just know a grinder and paint makes me the welder I aint...

I know this is largely a personal / emotional decision to repair rust or to get rid of the car... I drive 20k miles a year at least, so I can only assume I would get another 3 years out of it hopefully based on mileage and whatever other items need done.

Just looking for some wisdom. I think of the saying live like nobody else now and then live like nobody else later... most people my age are getting new 50k+ cars and I am thinking if I have the ability to fix it, maybe I should. Just don't want to feel like I am setting a pile of money on fire in the middle of the room if I do the work. Thank you in advance.

 

[Marky Dissod]

What you learn by doing your own work is always a good investment.

He was referenecing the difference between cosmetic vs structural rust.
Obviously you don't want to look like a rust zombie driving down the road,
but you also don't want a rust-free body to be the structural member that holds the frame together either. Keep the frame as rust-free as possible.

I'm on a very tight budget, so I slapped a large sheet of coroplast under the frame to nearly eliminate road spray from hitting it.
Takes 1 extra minute to remove or reapply it.

You'll get at least another 3 years out of what you got. If you're willing to swap an engine in the future, likely more.

 

[tagexpcom]

My 1st car was 66 Mustang. The floor boards eventually rusted thru (Indiana winter salt) with football+ size holes / see the road going by. Like any 19yr old, poor, idiot. I kept driving - no problem - till.. a piece of wood bounced up thru the hold and almost neutered me at highway speeds. Put a piece of plywood down to cover the driver's hole.

Final story - same car driving thru mass water surging over the road during a major rain storm and car started to 'float' / loose traction / slide off the road.... but because of the holes it filled with water almost immediately and sank back to restore traction and made it thru.

I hate rust as well, Midwest full of rusty cars. On west coast (CA, Oregon) the last 40yrs - no rust on any cars.

 

[thefrey]

You'll get at least another 3 years out of what you got.

I would hope so. I got some frame pics here. It gets spicier as you go back. The oil leak that I fixed when I got the car had the front half of the frame looking mint.

Maybe I'm crazy (or midwestern, what's the difference), but most of that rust doesn't concern me, and the "flaking" is just the original frame coating starting to come off. Dunno, though. Opinions welcome...

 

[Sir_Hiro]

I would hope so. I got some frame pics here. It gets spicier as you go back. The oil leak that I fixed when I got the car had the front half of the frame looking mint.

View attachment 472042View attachment 472040View attachment 472041View attachment 472045View attachment 472043


Maybe I'm crazy (or midwestern, what's the difference), but most of that rust doesn't concern me, and the "flaking" is just the original frame coating starting to come off. Dunno, though. Opinions welcome...

Thats just scale. What I do every year in spots that are like that I'll wirebrush the chunky stuff off and then undercoat it. I dont do alot of prep work underneath because of the conditions it'll see but It will last all winter and will need touching up again next fall. Just my PM schedule. Like your truck to me is a pressure wash and spray it black look

Another way is to needle scale the whole truck which is best done on a lift for saving of the back.

 

[OR VietVet]

I have been thinking about this...

I may be one of the younger guys on this forum. I say that because I don't have what you have: experience... I am young and naive so leaning on people's experience and wisdom is a huge help for me.

I haven't dealt with a rusty car before. I don't know what the best course of action is since I will probably need a DOD delete here soon, plus whatever maintenance of "while I'm in there", plus I need brakes/rotors and a few simple suspension items. I am coming up on 215k miles.

I replied to this specifically since you have dealt with this issue before; it worth touching the rust, or should I cut my losses and get rid of it while I'm ahead?

I have the ability to use a friend's barn to cut out panels and weld new ones in. I would ideally like to do the repair. This is my daily and my only car, so I don't like the idea of it becoming a total unsightly rust bucket. I can only assume that would be a repair that would last 3-5 years since rust always comes back. I have not done body work before or paint, but I want to learn. I have welded... but I just know a grinder and paint makes me the welder I aint...

I know this is largely a personal / emotional decision to repair rust or to get rid of the car... I drive 20k miles a year at least, so I can only assume I would get another 3 years out of it hopefully based on mileage and whatever other items need done.

Just looking for some wisdom. I think of the saying live like nobody else now and then live like nobody else later... most people my age are getting new 50k+ cars and I am thinking if I have the ability to fix it, maybe I should. Just don't want to feel like I am setting a pile of money on fire in the middle of the room if I do the work. Thank you in advance.

If you are willing to put the "sweat equity" in to whatever you are doing/attempting, it is always worth it. Prep as best you can ahead of time and think it thru.

 

[Marky Dissod]

MILD oil leaks are rust prevention.
Feel free to start looking for a replacement in better condition if you like, but no rush yet, that frame still has time,
moreso if you do something about it.

 

[Sir_Hiro]

MILD oil leaks are rust prevention.
Feel free to start looking for a replacement in better condition if you like, but no rush yet, that frame still has time,
moreso if you do something about it.

If its leaking that means it has fluids...when it stops leaking is when the problems start showing up.

 

[B-train]

I have been thinking about this...

I may be one of the younger guys on this forum. I say that because I don't have what you have: experience... I am young and naive so leaning on people's experience and wisdom is a huge help for me.

I haven't dealt with a rusty car before. I don't know what the best course of action is since I will probably need a DOD delete here soon, plus whatever maintenance of "while I'm in there", plus I need brakes/rotors and a few simple suspension items. I am coming up on 215k miles.

I replied to this specifically since you have dealt with this issue before; it worth touching the rust, or should I cut my losses and get rid of it while I'm ahead?

I have the ability to use a friend's barn to cut out panels and weld new ones in. I would ideally like to do the repair. This is my daily and my only car, so I don't like the idea of it becoming a total unsightly rust bucket. I can only assume that would be a repair that would last 3-5 years since rust always comes back. I have not done body work before or paint, but I want to learn. I have welded... but I just know a grinder and paint makes me the welder I aint...

I know this is largely a personal / emotional decision to repair rust or to get rid of the car... I drive 20k miles a year at least, so I can only assume I would get another 3 years out of it hopefully based on mileage and whatever other items need done.

Just looking for some wisdom. I think of the saying live like nobody else now and then live like nobody else later... most people my age are getting new 50k+ cars and I am thinking if I have the ability to fix it, maybe I should. Just don't want to feel like I am setting a pile of money on fire in the middle of the room if I do the work. Thank you in advance.

I like your eagerness to learn, that's a good thing these days. Here's my two cents:

The rust by the rockers is never going to be fixable the right way. You will get cutting and welding experience, but i think you'll find quite a bit of frustration in the process. What is your plan if the body work turns into a flop?

The frame rust isn't pretty, but I've seen worse. You could use a turbo tip on a pressure washer to blow off any scale, apply rust converter when its good and dry, then apply a half gallon of fluid film or woolwax to the entirety of the underbody to slow the process down (inside and outside of frame). This does work, but will need to be touched up yearly to keep the effectiveness.

Based on what you said it needs, I'd be on the lookout for a replacement. It's nice to see a younger person following the Dave Ramsey advice - it will pay dividends down the road for sure. I'd use good money to get a good starting point. You definitely could be lighting a pile on fire with this one, and the more you touch to do repairs will ultimately lead to MORE repairs.

Rusty vehicles are a complete PITA in general. Have you done any searching in southern states that would be an easy long weekend to fly and drive home? I know there are still risks with this option as well, but starting with a lower mileage and clean body/frame will be more enjoyable in the long run.

I've bought Denalis from OK, TX, FL, and CA because they were rust free. Sure, they all had over 100k, most around 140k, but some due diligence and phone conversations can get you a basic feel for the care/condition of it and go from there.

I'm happy to help in a search if you choose to go that route. There are also a lot of good guys on here that can chime in as well if you have specific questions, etc.

 

[thefrey]

Thanks for the reply. Some good info here...

The rust by the rockers is never going to be fixable the right way.

Why wouldn't it be fixable? I would think that cutting out and welding in new panels would be a good fix... at least a long enough fix that would last me the rest of the life the car assuming I don't replace an engine.

I took videos/pics and the back sides of the rockers are mint. It's really only the drivers side that is "bad". The rockers are really only bubbling, but there is one tiny hole in the driver side rocker. I might be able to get away with doing the "fix" of sand/bondo/paint on the passenger side.

The other thing is I am only looking at what I can see.. so once I get those rockers cut off, it might be ugly inside.

I have always been interested in learning to do body work. I've watched videos of guys for the past 5+ years repair copart/auction vehicles since I think it looks fun and I would like to do it someday. So, I figured it doesn't hurt to try on a 10+ year old car. I know it won't be perfect, and I would probably get frustrated as you said. I don't really know what a backup would be, but that would be a good idea to have before I start cutting.

the more you touch to do repairs will ultimately lead to MORE repairs

Are you saying this because if I keep repairing an older car that other things will inevitably break and wear out?

Have you done any searching in southern states that would be an easy long weekend to fly and drive home?

I recently moved from Ohio to TN, so I will 1000% be purchasing my next car(s) from south of here... I'm learning that rust is just a cancer that doesn't have a good fix except a lot of time and money...


My next thing is I don't really know what I would replace this with... I bought this Yukon because I found it for cheap and figured it would be a good experience to fix it up and get it running well since it seemed to have a lot of life left.

If I had a choice, I would probably replace it with a mid-size truck. I really like the new Canyon/Colorado platform, but I don't know if I trust new vehicles right now. Plus, I caught the V8 bug having my GMT900 and the newer mid-size trucks are mostly turbo 4 cylinders, the GM ones have 310 hp and 430 ft/lb torque.

I feel like if I was to get another Denali, I would jump up to the K2XX... seems like they have a solid amount of upgrades and features and get better gas mileage with the 4wd instead of the AWD that I currently have. I do like having the ability to run e85, though, and it seems like they got rid of that.

I don't know what car I would want to get next... I think that would be my biggest hurdle is making a decision.

But, it might be a decent idea to pick up a Yukon that I know has issues and apply all of the knowledge I've learned in the past year from this forum to be fix it... That might be a better plan than to dump money into a 215k+ Yukon that is starting to return to the dust.

Lot of info here sorry lol

 

[B-train]

Thanks for the reply. Some good info here...

Why wouldn't it be fixable? I would think that cutting out and welding in new panels would be a good fix... at least a long enough fix that would last me the rest of the life the car assuming I don't replace an engine.

I took videos/pics and the back sides of the rockers are mint. It's really only the drivers side that is "bad". The rockers are really only bubbling, but there is one tiny hole in the driver side rocker. I might be able to get away with doing the "fix" of sand/bondo/paint on the passenger side.

The other thing is I am only looking at what I can see.. so once I get those rockers cut off, it might be ugly inside.

I have always been interested in learning to do body work. I've watched videos of guys for the past 5+ years repair copart/auction vehicles since I think it looks fun and I would like to do it someday. So, I figured it doesn't hurt to try on a 10+ year old car. I know it won't be perfect, and I would probably get frustrated as you said. I don't really know what a backup would be, but that would be a good idea to have before I start cutting.


Are you saying this because if I keep repairing an older car that other things will inevitably break and wear out?


I recently moved from Ohio to TN, so I will 1000% be purchasing my next car(s) from south of here... I'm learning that rust is just a cancer that doesn't have a good fix except a lot of time and money...


My next thing is I don't really know what I would replace this with... I bought this Yukon because I found it for cheap and figured it would be a good experience to fix it up and get it running well since it seemed to have a lot of life left.

If I had a choice, I would probably replace it with a mid-size truck. I really like the new Canyon/Colorado platform, but I don't know if I trust new vehicles right now. Plus, I caught the V8 bug having my GMT900 and the newer mid-size trucks are mostly turbo 4 cylinders, the GM ones have 310 hp and 430 ft/lb torque.

I feel like if I was to get another Denali, I would jump up to the K2XX... seems like they have a solid amount of upgrades and features and get better gas mileage with the 4wd instead of the AWD that I currently have. I do like having the ability to run e85, though, and it seems like they got rid of that.

I don't know what car I would want to get next... I think that would be my biggest hurdle is making a decision.

But, it might be a decent idea to pick up a Yukon that I know has issues and apply all of the knowledge I've learned in the past year from this forum to be fix it... That might be a better plan than to dump money into a 215k+ Yukon that is starting to return to the dust.

Lot of info here sorry lol

Thanks for the reply. Some good info here...

Why wouldn't it be fixable? I would think that cutting out and welding in new panels would be a good fix... at least a long enough fix that would last me the rest of the life the car assuming I don't replace an engine.

I took videos/pics and the back sides of the rockers are mint. It's really only the drivers side that is "bad". The rockers are really only bubbling, but there is one tiny hole in the driver side rocker. I might be able to get away with doing the "fix" of sand/bondo/paint on the passenger side.

The other thing is I am only looking at what I can see.. so once I get those rockers cut off, it might be ugly inside.

I have always been interested in learning to do body work. I've watched videos of guys for the past 5+ years repair copart/auction vehicles since I think it looks fun and I would like to do it someday. So, I figured it doesn't hurt to try on a 10+ year old car. I know it won't be perfect, and I would probably get frustrated as you said. I don't really know what a backup would be, but that would be a good idea to have before I start cutting.


Are you saying this because if I keep repairing an older car that other things will inevitably break and wear out?


I recently moved from Ohio to TN, so I will 1000% be purchasing my next car(s) from south of here... I'm learning that rust is just a cancer that doesn't have a good fix except a lot of time and money...


My next thing is I don't really know what I would replace this with... I bought this Yukon because I found it for cheap and figured it would be a good experience to fix it up and get it running well since it seemed to have a lot of life left.

If I had a choice, I would probably replace it with a mid-size truck. I really like the new Canyon/Colorado platform, but I don't know if I trust new vehicles right now. Plus, I caught the V8 bug having my GMT900 and the newer mid-size trucks are mostly turbo 4 cylinders, the GM ones have 310 hp and 430 ft/lb torque.

I feel like if I was to get another Denali, I would jump up to the K2XX... seems like they have a solid amount of upgrades and features and get better gas mileage with the 4wd instead of the AWD that I currently have. I do like having the ability to run e85, though, and it seems like they got rid of that.

I don't know what car I would want to get next... I think that would be my biggest hurdle is making a decision.

But, it might be a decent idea to pick up a Yukon that I know has issues and apply all of the knowledge I've learned in the past year from this forum to be fix it... That might be a better plan than to dump money into a 215k+ Yukon that is starting to return to the dust.

Lot of info here sorry lol

"the more you touch to do repairs will ultimately lead to MORE repairs"
Are you saying this because if I keep repairing an older car that other things will inevitably break and wear out?

---I mentioned that because you dont know what will happen when things are disassembled, moved, put back together, etc. Think; fuel lines, brake lines, grounding wires, wire harnesses, etc. I've seen too many simple jobs go sideways because of rust - a fire wrench is usually your friend for most fasteners, etc because of the corrosion.

To your point on body work. It sounds like you really want to learn, so don't hold yourself back. When you cut it open, you'll find what you find. Luckily it's a black truck, so color matching will be easy. I shouldn't have said it can't be done - more like it will be a huge job and a PITA to get it to look original. The bondo and paint is probably the easiest option. When its all painted and dry, flood that cavity with fluid film and seal it up from moisture - it'll buy you more time.

Ultimately, do what you think is best for your budget and desire to learn. Personally, I choose to spend my money on things that will frustrate me less in the long run and look good for as long as I want to own it because I started with a clean slate so to speak.

There are TONS of Denali or Escalade of that era for sale down south. I think you might be surprised at what you can find in a reasonable budget. I'd advise the 2007 to 2009 personally.

The K2xx trucks are better on fuel and the interior fit and finish is nicer. However, I own a 2008 Denali and a 2017 Denali and I much prefer the way my 2008 rides, sounds, seat softness, etc over the 2017. But, on road trips the 2017 will easily return 3 mpg better on average, so if you drive a lot that adds up.