What did you do to your OBS GMT400 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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97YukonNZ

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Trying to feel my way around here. OBS, Original Body Style? GMT400 ???

First 72 hours or so of ownership has been discovery and exploration, trying to figure out what works and what doesn't and what things are supposed to do. Then ordering a few things to make my mark on it.


Just hope I didn't make a mistake. Bought my two current cars sight unseen. Drove hours to get them, then drove them hours back home. That was 20 years ago and they both still run.

Bought this one sight unseen, but I had a local go to look it over some and test drive it first. Then paid to have it shipped. If it last another 10 years, it'll probably have outlasted me.

I don't need a money pit and hope this won't turn into one. This is my first 'truck' of any kind and it's going to take some getting used to. It's a little longer and wider than my Taurus wagon and I was concerned about judging distances when turning and parking, but it hasn't been too bad.

Neighbor had a Silverado PU I looked at, but the trans was shot and had a number of other problems that would have been too expensive to fix.
Hi and welcome to the forum from me in New Zealand.
Woul love to see some photos of your new rig!
Post em up n get to know a few of the Fella's on here. Heaps of knowledge and people who are happy to help where they can! :D
 
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the 18th letter

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Changed out my upper control arms and tie rod ends. Backyard mechanic said he didn't have the press tool to lower ball joints, idler and pitman arms. Truck drives 90% better since I got it aligned but pretty sure I need a steering gear. The toe is no longer eating up my inner tire so that's a relief. Shop wants almost 750 to do the ball joints:mad: and I'm supplying the ball joints.
 

97YukonNZ

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Changed out my upper control arms and tie rod ends. Backyard mechanic said he didn't have the press tool to lower ball joints, idler and pitman arms. Truck drives 90% better since I got it aligned but pretty sure I need a steering gear. The toe is no longer eating up my inner tire so that's a relief. Shop wants almost 750 to do the ball joints:mad: and I'm supplying the ball joints.
They are ripping you!
I got 1 of mine done for about $150 here in N.Z which is around $75 U.S.

You should have a look around for the ball joint press kit.
I bet you could buy that for a third of what this mech is trying to pinch from you!

Best of luck.
 

the 18th letter

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They are ripping you!
I got 1 of mine done for about $150 here in N.Z which is around $75 U.S.

You should have a look around for the ball joint press kit.
I bet you could buy that for a third of what this mech is trying to pinch from you!

Best of luck.
Car technicians, as they are now called, charge 150 an hour in NJ. 4 hours of labor and another 100 for the 4 wheel alignment. I just have to find a backyard mechanic who has a press. My guy changed everything I mentioned and brake pads for 300.
 

Mean_Green

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the 18th letter

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Have you looked at Rock Auto? Several here, lowers and uppers, but not sure which part you need:

Only lowers they have are for RWD, unless I'm missing something. I got new bushings for the lower control arm, but again my mechanic said they have to be pressed in.
 

Mean_Green

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Where does the 12 CD changer mount and is the wiring in place for it?
 

Mean_Green

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Programmed two new remotes. Very simple and they work well.

Swapped out a bunch of lamps for LEDs. All seem to work, but the front marker lights are odd. Put two green 194s and at first they were nice and bright. Put the ambers in the front and reds in the back.
They work fine on tail/parking and 4 way. Turn signals work, but on hyperflash. Not sure I care about that as long as they all blink. But the marker lights went out. Put incandescents back in and they barely light at all, just a faint glow. Doesn't make sense to me. The same 194 greens in the dash all work fine.
 

Mean_Green

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Disco Balls arrived today. First shot is comparison to the old. Second is all four units installed and grille back on.

Front_a.jpg



Front.jpg
 

Mean_Green

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LED courtesy lights arrived. Simple plug in. Bright too. Lots brighter that 194s and the red part lights up too instead of just being a reflector like the old ones.


Courtesy.jpg
.


Yes, the rear seats are out. Mentioned that before. Will rig more cargo space for shopping runs.
 

Sam Harris

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Wondering if it would be better/easier/cheaper/less hassle to replace the whole lower control arms that come with the ball joints.
This is what I did on my NBS. Much easier, and worth the more cost for the parts.
Only lowers they have are for RWD, unless I'm missing something. I got new bushings for the lower control arm, but again my mechanic said they have to be pressed in.
might not be a bad thing to pick up a Hobo Freight press.. used to be around $125.. I think they’re around $200 now. I just spent $200 for a bushing press tool for my old Civic, so I could do the whole job myself. I have a guy I can go to his shop, use his tools and lift, but who knows if he’d have the correct cup for this specific job… don’t want to pull the whole rear suspension off, and then find out he doesn’t have it. Figured I should just get what I know will work. I bought the tool, and also a master pack of bushing / seal driver & presses, for whatever comes along.
 

Mean_Green

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Owner's Manual says there's a three button remote for garage doors, etc. Shows a closeup, but no wide shot to see where it goes. Is wiring in place if I can find one at Salvage?
 

east302

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It would be in the overhead console. I don’t know if it’s prewired, though.

I’ve seen in various forums where people have added the HomeLink panels from GM SUVs (Bravada, Jimmy, Blazer) and wired them in. I’m unsure of the specifics, though.
 
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Mean_Green

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Well, I don't have the overhead console, so I'm not sure if it's worth the bother. I may see if Salvage has one and see if it just needs 12V and ground.


Meanwhile ....

Replaced the 7 pin trailer connector since several of the wires were rotted and corroded off. Used a Curt 57102 that gives you the 7 pin blade, a 4 pin flat and a backup alarm all in one unit. I may end up hating the alarm, but I might wire in a switch for it.

Also replaced the license plate lights with LED units. Though the old 194 bulbs were burned out but once I got into them the sockets were so corroded that the lamp tabs were rotted off. Cleaned them with contact cleaner and packed them with vaseline. New sealed units fit into the factory bumper openings quite well.
 

YukonGTmaster

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Just doing my rear differential fluid on my '97 Yukon GT 4x4. 10 bolt diff cover. Do you guys know the factory bolt torque spec, when using the OEM GM gasket? Thanks.
 

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