skpyle
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- May 15, 2021
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Hello All,
I am now falling face first into a full DOD delete on the L94 6.2L in my 2013 Escalade.
However…I am still falling.
Cause of this is #5 cylinder intake non-AFM lifter roller is fragged.
#5 cylinder intake non-AFM lifter on left, #5 exhaust on right.
See my thread here where I found the issue:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/2013-escalade-noise-ac-compressor-or-engine.155803/
Seems simple enough…
However. Where did the metal chunks go from the failed roller?
As well, during disassembly, I saw two things that concerned me:
1) there were chunks of crud on some of the rocker arm trunions. I don’t like this.
Chunk of crud is bad juju. It does not seem metallic.
2) some of the upper row head bolts under the valve covers had a film of gray ‘antiseize’ on them after removing them. I broke the head bolts loose with a breaker bar, then ran them out with my battery impact. This may just be the oil on the bolt heads being agitated by the sockets.
I cannot find any similar gray film on any surfaces of the heads under the valve covers.
Two head bolts at left and middle have gray film on the heads. Bolt at right has had its head cleaned.
Gray film doesn’t show up well on camera, sorry.
Inside surface of passenger’s side cylinder head. Looks clean enough, no gray film. I am paranoid, though.
My point is that I now have a burning desire to get a look at one rod bearing and one main bearing. It is nagging in my head that the gray film is bearing material.
I watch ‘I Do Cars’ on youtube too much…
I had already planned to take the oil pan off to change the oil pump.
Welllllll…now I am thinking of going ahead and pulling the engine. I want to replace the motor mounts.
As well as new torque converter and more upgrades for the transmission.
And the engine work will be easier on a stand.
Yes, this is escalading(see what I did there…).
I am concerned about bearings. OK, I can replace bearings. If I replace bearings, I should have the crank polished.
And with the full DOD delete work, I am just a hop, skip, and a jump away from pistons, rings, and cam bearings.
Like I said, still falling.
So, for those of you still reading, I have some opening questions:
IF, and this is a big IF, I go the rebuild route,
Who do I go to for pistons, rings, and bearings?
GM Genuine?
Mahle?
Hastings?
Speed-Pro?
Federal Mogul?
King?
IF I go this route, it will be stock rebuild. No need for forged high compression pistons, etc…
Granted, my L94 has 175,068 miles on it, had 50+PSI cold start up oil pressure and 25+PSI hot idle oil pressure, and ran balls out.
But, I am this far in, and want to keep my Escalade for quite some time.
Thank you in advance for all your suggestions and advice!
Here is where it stands now:
I am now falling face first into a full DOD delete on the L94 6.2L in my 2013 Escalade.
However…I am still falling.
Cause of this is #5 cylinder intake non-AFM lifter roller is fragged.
#5 cylinder intake non-AFM lifter on left, #5 exhaust on right.
See my thread here where I found the issue:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/2013-escalade-noise-ac-compressor-or-engine.155803/
Seems simple enough…
However. Where did the metal chunks go from the failed roller?
As well, during disassembly, I saw two things that concerned me:
1) there were chunks of crud on some of the rocker arm trunions. I don’t like this.
Chunk of crud is bad juju. It does not seem metallic.
2) some of the upper row head bolts under the valve covers had a film of gray ‘antiseize’ on them after removing them. I broke the head bolts loose with a breaker bar, then ran them out with my battery impact. This may just be the oil on the bolt heads being agitated by the sockets.
I cannot find any similar gray film on any surfaces of the heads under the valve covers.
Two head bolts at left and middle have gray film on the heads. Bolt at right has had its head cleaned.
Gray film doesn’t show up well on camera, sorry.
Inside surface of passenger’s side cylinder head. Looks clean enough, no gray film. I am paranoid, though.
My point is that I now have a burning desire to get a look at one rod bearing and one main bearing. It is nagging in my head that the gray film is bearing material.
I watch ‘I Do Cars’ on youtube too much…
I had already planned to take the oil pan off to change the oil pump.
Welllllll…now I am thinking of going ahead and pulling the engine. I want to replace the motor mounts.
As well as new torque converter and more upgrades for the transmission.
And the engine work will be easier on a stand.
Yes, this is escalading(see what I did there…).
I am concerned about bearings. OK, I can replace bearings. If I replace bearings, I should have the crank polished.
And with the full DOD delete work, I am just a hop, skip, and a jump away from pistons, rings, and cam bearings.
Like I said, still falling.
So, for those of you still reading, I have some opening questions:
IF, and this is a big IF, I go the rebuild route,
Who do I go to for pistons, rings, and bearings?
GM Genuine?
Mahle?
Hastings?
Speed-Pro?
Federal Mogul?
King?
IF I go this route, it will be stock rebuild. No need for forged high compression pistons, etc…
Granted, my L94 has 175,068 miles on it, had 50+PSI cold start up oil pressure and 25+PSI hot idle oil pressure, and ran balls out.
But, I am this far in, and want to keep my Escalade for quite some time.
Thank you in advance for all your suggestions and advice!
Here is where it stands now:
