What would you do? Truck Needs Engine?

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Nel2son

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Hey everyone wanted to run something by everyone to see what they might do, give some input and what not. I have a 2015 Yukon SLE 130k miles, was driving home and the motor shut off on the freeway no check engine lights nothing at all. Pulled off to the side, got it towed home and checked the codes. I got a p0335 Crankshaft sensor issue. I had just put a new HP fuel pump in a month or so ago and everything ran fine. I did have a Misfire on cylinder 8 that would come and go but it would never stick around once the truck warmed up( This had been happening for about 6 months or so ). Once at home I went ahead and tried to start the motor. No crank at all, would not turn over... Fast forward 5 days the dealer has it comes back with needs a new motor. I talked with the tech and he said compression is low and he cant get it started. . . . But it does crank now. Tech states either the timing chain skipped a tooth or stretched. He also thinks it could be spun lifter as well which doesn't equate a new motor that's something I would just do myself with a AFM delete. Any advisement on what it could be? should I get a used motor installed around $8.7k didn't see anyone with the same issues I had or a p0335 in this Gen truck either. BTW the truck is very clean outside and in so on trade in at the dealer I was offered 10k if the motor was fine. sorry for the rant just seeing what other might do in my shoes. Dealer won't take the truck on trade with the motor issue as its too much of a hassle .
 

B-train

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IF it is an engine, Jasper Reman has remanufactured 5.3 that already have the AFM deleted, FWIW.

(you didn't say what displacement you have)
Then @Nel2son spend another $500 with HP tuners (or find someone who has it) and go in and toggle off the AFM in the fuel section. Super easy to do if you end up going a route like this.
 

Doubeleive

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Hey everyone wanted to run something by everyone to see what they might do, give some input and what not. I have a 2015 Yukon SLE 130k miles, was driving home and the motor shut off on the freeway no check engine lights nothing at all. Pulled off to the side, got it towed home and checked the codes. I got a p0335 Crankshaft sensor issue. I had just put a new HP fuel pump in a month or so ago and everything ran fine. I did have a Misfire on cylinder 8 that would come and go but it would never stick around once the truck warmed up( This had been happening for about 6 months or so ). Once at home I went ahead and tried to start the motor. No crank at all, would not turn over... Fast forward 5 days the dealer has it comes back with needs a new motor. I talked with the tech and he said compression is low and he cant get it started. . . . But it does crank now. Tech states either the timing chain skipped a tooth or stretched. He also thinks it could be spun lifter as well which doesn't equate a new motor that's something I would just do myself with a AFM delete. Any advisement on what it could be? should I get a used motor installed around $8.7k didn't see anyone with the same issues I had or a p0335 in this Gen truck either. BTW the truck is very clean outside and in so on trade in at the dealer I was offered 10k if the motor was fine. sorry for the rant just seeing what other might do in my shoes. Dealer won't take the truck on trade with the motor issue as its too much of a hassle .
low compression is not a good sign, but if you are going ballz deep may as well take a deeper look first and go from there. perhaps at a shop with a better rate
 

Marty_S

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Hey everyone wanted to run something by everyone to see what they might do, give some input and what not. I have a 2015 Yukon SLE 130k miles, was driving home and the motor shut off on the freeway no check engine lights nothing at all. Pulled off to the side, got it towed home and checked the codes. I got a p0335 Crankshaft sensor issue. I had just put a new HP fuel pump in a month or so ago and everything ran fine. I did have a Misfire on cylinder 8 that would come and go but it would never stick around once the truck warmed up( This had been happening for about 6 months or so ). Once at home I went ahead and tried to start the motor. No crank at all, would not turn over... Fast forward 5 days the dealer has it comes back with needs a new motor. I talked with the tech and he said compression is low and he cant get it started. . . . But it does crank now. Tech states either the timing chain skipped a tooth or stretched. He also thinks it could be spun lifter as well which doesn't equate a new motor that's something I would just do myself with a AFM delete. Any advisement on what it could be? should I get a used motor installed around $8.7k didn't see anyone with the same issues I had or a p0335 in this Gen truck either. BTW the truck is very clean outside and in so on trade in at the dealer I was offered 10k if the motor was fine. sorry for the rant just seeing what other might do in my shoes. Dealer won't take the truck on trade with the motor issue as its too much of a hassle .
I'm sure they are more now but we got 2 German made crate 350s that amazed me with so many parts already attached. One went in my 80 Chev truck and the other in Dads 72 GMC 4x4 that my brother and I got to drive around the USA in 72 summer. The motors cost 850usd each if memory serves.
 

RET423

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At 130k that engine is barely broke in, I would definitely diagnose it before replacing it

If it genuinely has low compression it won't be the rings at that mileage, likely just crud from the afm or a valve issue, if it has VVT it could be valve timing but I doubt it would be a bad chain at that mileage

Crack it open and get eyes on it
 

NELLY1947

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Hey everyone wanted to run something by everyone to see what they might do, give some input and what not. I have a 2015 Yukon SLE 130k miles, was driving home and the motor shut off on the freeway no check engine lights nothing at all. Pulled off to the side, got it towed home and checked the codes. I got a p0335 Crankshaft sensor issue. I had just put a new HP fuel pump in a month or so ago and everything ran fine. I did have a Misfire on cylinder 8 that would come and go but it would never stick around once the truck warmed up( This had been happening for about 6 months or so ). Once at home I went ahead and tried to start the motor. No crank at all, would not turn over... Fast forward 5 days the dealer has it comes back with needs a new motor. I talked with the tech and he said compression is low and he cant get it started. . . . But it does crank now. Tech states either the timing chain skipped a tooth or stretched. He also thinks it could be spun lifter as well which doesn't equate a new motor that's something I would just do myself with a AFM delete. Any advisement on what it could be? should I get a used motor installed around $8.7k didn't see anyone with the same issues I had or a p0335 in this Gen truck either. BTW the truck is very clean outside and in so on trade in at the dealer I was offered 10k if the motor was fine. sorry for the rant just seeing what other might do in my shoes. Dealer won't take the truck on trade with the motor issue as its too much of a hassle .
Before you go that route of a used motor. GM used to sell rebuilt warranteed motors. Don't know if they still do.
 

Seamus

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130K is low mileage for this motor. Known issues are always a lifter, or a gummed up valve from the DI system. So if a a valve is slightly stuck open it will have low compression. I will bet 99% the bottom end it perfectly fine. To do a lifter, heads are coming off anyway and and when you see the back side of those valves you will not believe it. Get a second opinion. An AFM delete with a new cam and lifters and walnut blast the backside of valves and it will go over 300K easily.
 

2015Yukon

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Incorrect cam timing will cause low compression numbers also. So if it does have a stretched timing chain and did spin a lifter, it still would all be fixed by a proper afm delete kit with cam... Assuming it didn't send a ton of metal through the system.
 

adamztrucking

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Your 2015 Yukon SLE (130k miles) shut off while driving, and after towing it home, you got a P0335 code (Crankshaft Position Sensor). The dealer now says you need a new engine, suspecting a stretched/skipped timing chain or a spun lifter. You've been quoted $8.7k for a used engine, but you might be able to fix the timing chain or lifter and do an AFM delete yourself to save money.

Key considerations:
- Get a second opinion on whether it's just the timing chain or lifter.
- Weigh the cost of repairs against the trade-in value ($10k if engine were fine).
- If the truck is in great condition, fixing the issue could add long-term value.
 

BigDogYJ

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Unless the thing has been abused and way over due OCI I’d be suspicious of the low compression diagnosis without further info. What’s a spun lifter? I know they can collapse or rotate. Or maybe a wiped cam lobe?
 

okfoz

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Look at any service manual from 50 years ago and it will give instructions on how to rebuild an engine, rebuild a steering pump, rebuild a steering box, rebuild an AC compressor, rebuild just about everything. Look at new service manuals and they have "Replace engine" Consider this, if you have a tech rebuilding an engine, charging at $100 per hour to rebuild an engine, financially it makes more sense for the dealer to simply buy a new engine, a new AC compressor, a new steering pump or box, and charge the customer. Then pay the mechanic $20 per hour for the job. That mechanic can be doing other things and making the dealer more money.
A small mom-pop shop might be more inclined to rebuild an engine because their labor is not as high and for them it is not as drastic of a hit to simply rebuild it vs buy a new engine.
 

okfoz

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Unless the thing has been abused and way over due OCI I’d be suspicious of the low compression diagnosis without further info. What’s a spun lifter? I know they can collapse or rotate. Or maybe a wiped cam lobe?
A spun lifter happens because the guides that keep it from spinning are apparently plastic now, instead of the old days that used a steel or cast iron guide. A spun lifter would trash the cam, a collapsed lifter usually does not trash the cam it just runs like garbage. Low compression might be from the valve not completely seated, I imagine a spun lifter could do that, In my experience a collapsed lifter does some funky things and it does cause a slightly lower compression, probably because it does not completely open the valve correctly causing some extra gunk to build up on the valve and spark plug especially if it is a collapsed exhaust lifter (I had that happen).
 

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