What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Charlie207]

I went to my mechanic this afternoon…. I asked him a question…. About getting a tune.

He suggested for me to remove my throttle body and carefully clean it. FIRST…. See what results I get.
An aged throttle body…. with possible sticking butterfly can affect the ‘launch’ .

That would be nice, but it's probably fine.

 

[mountie]

Yeah, my windshield is sooooo freaking pitted, that I'm curious if its the original.

I have 180,000 on my windshield….. It shows a ‘sandy’ pitting, but tolerable for now. I prefer the OEM windshield markings.

 

[mountie]

That would be nice, but it's probably fine.

You are probably right, but it has never been cleaned. I run regular fuel.

 

[89Suburban]

I went to my mechanic this afternoon…. I asked him a question…. About getting a tune.

He suggested for me to remove my throttle body and carefully clean it. FIRST…. See what results I get.
An aged throttle body…. with possible sticking butterfly can affect the ‘launch’ .

Meh

 

[Charlie207]

Yes Sir,

Bi-LED projectos from amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/SHNJAUTO-Inch-Bi-LED-Projector-Lens/dp/B0D7C4N1LY/ref=sr_1_6?crid=M8RR1DSOBR6H&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.i9afmE8VJqqRlHBcgfDWhi2sHAd6mLG29CfNn3jxn_gbvsSP-rTCgA1Gsa20hvANZFkds8zJcJsG3ZOpUhl9BxhZDysON3F08h31Z1mOPvErLmJ00A8kG-un8Sr4a6VW3cHsLAan3BME8udS1cesqWQrXLLqvmTvQ4jahg-eDt-h2r9GTI5zsk6ZWda5ez5-a3hHA508DPiuojIA_quesHpm_Dy8I_nf2obP8NSejbSVHMu5dlnkj2xuIG1cEneIlt0CvrKX60T1L9-k_JD_Io1a5leeXsSNBYPEOTcWPxo.GgGo0A2VGKuevzx8-HJbSAA8nuS59xjipJNtZLKE_Y0&dib_tag=se&keywords=biled%2Bprojector%2B3.0&qid=1762178727&sprefix=biled%2Bprojecotr%2B3.0%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-6&th=1

Cut off the wires that used to go to the Ballasts. The yellow one is power the black is ground. On the projector the red and yellow get tied together and black on black.

For high beam there is no polarity so you hook up the original wires to the two black ones on the projector and then you either leave the ballast there or you find a nice thick piece of foam and you stuff it in the opening to prevent water intrusion. The rest is easy, reinstall, reseal with butyl or silicone or whatever you got handy and you enjoy them.

My favorite part is now the auto high beam it works very well. It didint seem to work well before due to the weak output of the headlights.


The beam is wider and goes farther than any OEM HID projector that I have seen. The old oem unit is hella based so it has a good high beam but hardly any width.

Google Photos

photos.google.com

View attachment 471276

Did it take a lot of hacking up to make it fit the OEM housing?

I'm curious about buying some of the projectors you linked, and a pair of El Cheapo housings from Ebay (I see some for like $80), and performing some surgery.

How dumb would it be to jam four of those projectors into these housings? (dumb!!)

 

[89Suburban]

You are probably right, but it has never been cleaned. I run regular fuel.

TUNE IT, TUNE IT.

 

[Charlie207]

You are probably right, but it has never been cleaned. I run regular fuel.

It won't hurt... pop the intake clamp and pipe off. Squirt in some carb cleaner, or whatever, and wipe it down. The sticky throttle issues are usually the TPS or motor, not the blade.

 

[j91z28d1]

so I found a noise I've been looking for for a month or so.

very weird almost air leak sound shhhhhhhhh any time you get on the gas hard enough it down shifted at 40mph or so up. let off and it would go away. use the brakes and it made same air like sound, but not below about 30mph. also if you popped it in neutral while braking it went away.

very odd, when I first heard it I asked the wife if she heard it. she's like yeah, it just did it one day. didn't think much about it. my only real worry with this thing is the tranny, so I'm also wondering if any weird new sound is tranny failing.


after a month or 2 of wondering, for some reason this morning driving it, I had a thought it could be the transfer case instead of tranny, normally I always leave it in 2wd instead of auto. looked over and bam it's in auto. switch to 2wd and noise gone.



sadly it was probably me that did it. put it in auto to pull the car trailer thru the yard incase it tried to spin and tear up the grass lol.

on a side note, I can 100% say the transfer case that have auto setting definitely engage the clutch or whatever is in there even just driving around. between the noise now and metal I found on the drain plug when I first got it. seems the previous owners drove in auto a lot. probably could use a refresh but meh. being it doesn't snow here and I don't go off road. I'll just let it ride.

 

[Charlie207]

so I found a noise I've been looking for for a month or so.

very weird almost air leak sound shhhhhhhhh any time you get on the gas hard enough it down shifted at 40mph or so up. let off and it would go away. use the brakes and it made same air like sound, but not below about 30mph. also if you popped it in neutral while braking it went away.

very odd, when I first heard it I asked the wife if she heard it. she's like yeah, it just did it one day. didn't think much about it. my only real worry with this thing is the tranny, so I'm also wondering if any weird new sound is tranny failing.


after a month or 2 of wondering, for some reason this morning driving it, I had a thought it could be the transfer case instead of tranny, normally I always leave it in 2wd instead of auto. looked over and bam it's in auto. switch to 2wd and noise gone.



sadly it was probably me that did it. put it in auto to pull the car trailer thru the yard incase it tried to spin and tear up the grass lol.

on a side note, I can 100% say the transfer case that have auto setting definitely engage the clutch or whatever is in there even just driving around. between the noise now and metal I found on the drain plug when I first got it. seems the previous owners drove in auto a lot. probably could use a refresh but meh. being it doesn't snow here and I don't go off road. I'll just let it ride.

Yeah, as soon as you engage AUTO or 4HI/LO the actuator motor on the front diff. pushes the fork to engage the splines (or whatever) that connect the shaft powering across to the front wheels. IIRC, the front driver's wheel is always connected/engaged, but the actuator couples both front axles as one. It's not hurting anything per se, but causes a bit more wear/drag.

 

[mikez71]

Yeah, my windshield is sooooo freaking pitted, that I'm curious if its the original.

Mine was too! Like seeing constellations and haze when the sun hit it dusk and dawn. 'Starry night' comes to mind..
Yep that's what it looked like..

Fortunately new windshield was cheap, but with a crooked tint band..
I'll take it, for now...

 

[Fless]

You are probably right, but it has never been cleaned. I run regular fuel.

Can't hurt. Do it regularly.

 

[Fless]

Yeah, as soon as you engage AUTO or 4HI/LO the actuator motor on the front diff. pushes the fork to engage the splines (or whatever) that connect the shaft powering across to the front wheels.

Technically when you switch to AUTO mode the front diff remains un-actuated, until such time that rear wheel slippage is sensed. Then when the actuator is engaged, there is a slight lag of around 1/2 second or so for the actuator to extend and push the internal fork. OBS actuators were thermal; the later ones are electric. You can feel this delay in engagement. All this time the transfer case has spun up to the speed needed to match the other drivetrain speeds, so that it's all connected when the front diff actuator is engaged.

And in 4HI or 4LO the front diff is always engaged.

 

[Doubeleive]

I read somewhere you can have your glass polished ?

there is glass polish yes, I had hard water spots that had been on the stupid thing for probably 15 years, the polish made the glass look brand new again
takes a bit of elbow grease
bruces GSR
there are probably a couple other brands out there also

 

[91RS]

Considering I can see the wipe pattern in my back glass, I'll believe my eyes.

It's not the rubber against glass, but whatever the rubber drags. Drive on gravel? Hard dust.

Maybe you don't let enough dirt accumulate if you wash your truck more often.

--------------------

Or MAYBE it's my imagination, because my back glass doesn't look scratched in the sunlight.. idk.
I had rock chips aplenty, so replaced my windshield last year...

The back glass on my 08 is horribly scratched from the wiper blade. It is plain as day.

 

[CMoore711]

I went to my mechanic this afternoon…. I asked him a question…. About getting a tune.

You really let me down here….

I thought this was the intro to a poem or riddle but you didn’t continue the rhyming theme.

 

[07Burb]

Did it take a lot of hacking up to make it fit the OEM housing?

I'm curious about buying some of the projectors you linked, and a pair of El Cheapo housings from Ebay (I see some for like $80), and performing some surgery.

How dumb would it be to jam four of those projectors into these housings? (dumb!!)

View attachment 471297

People used to do the retrofit mod of this nature on the forum all the time back in the day. Do a search. It’s super common.

 

[Scrappycrow]

I can say that rubber being dragged across dry glass will never scratch it, not even come close. You would have to drag something harder than glass, like gravel or something, and with downward force, which a wiper blade wouldn’t do- it would just push it forward. You’re not afflicted with anything other than unfounded fear. So I’ll continue to not worry. carry on!

You're really working hard to pretend that you don't understand what we're talking about. No one here has said they're worried about rubber scratching the glass. No one. We've repeatedly used the word "grit," which includes stuff like road dust and sand kicked up into the air and onto your vehicle, which can scratch every surface on the vehicle if it's rubbed on, including wipers moving over the glass. There's no way you don't understand that.

 

[j91z28d1]

Technically when you switch to AUTO mode the front diff remains un-actuated, until such time that rear wheel slippage is sensed. Then when the actuator is engaged, there is a slight lag of around 1/2 second or so for the actuator to extend and push the internal fork. OBS actuators were thermal; the later ones are electric. You can feel this delay in engagement. All this time the transfer case has spun up to the speed needed to match the other drivetrain speeds, so that it's all connected when the front diff actuator is engaged.

And in 4HI or 4LO the front diff is always engaged.

wonder if what I was hearing was just it spinning up the transfer case or what. whats weird is it's definitely load based sound. it was dead quiet at cruising speed or very slight acceleration. but harder acceleration or touch the brakes and it's spooled up.


interesting.. I don't know if it's noise playing tricks on me but I would sware it feels like it rolls more freely in 2wd.

 

[SpareParts]

Hows the fluid in the TC?

 

[mountie]

Mine was too! Like seeing constellations and haze when the sun hit it dusk and dawn. 'Starry night' comes to mind..
Yep that's what it looked like..
View attachment 471298

Fortunately new windshield was cheap, but with a crooked tint band..
I'll take it, for now...

BUGS on the windshield?? Yuk