Oldewing
Member
600 mile each way, well we are still there road trip for my neighbor to Iowa. For her family get together for the Labor day. She is 83 and can't drive that far anymore. I was free, so off we go....
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I reinforced the reinforcements on the new dash for my Silverado.
Laying under there changing the oil yesterday I was thinking maybe I should swap my lower arms just for the new bushings. Ball joint seems fine but might as well change it all if I was doing it.Picked up some more front suspension parts. Still waiting on the coils.
Sway Bar End Link - 25918049 (x2)
Stabilizer Bar - 23498331
Stabilizer Bar Bushing - 15124516 (x2)
Lower Control Arm - 20869201View attachment 349617
I have never seen any cracks above the stereo area- do you have any pictures of where that might be? And no other plans, all I've seen the cracks are the areas I added epoxy to.Id say so! Did you add anything other than the adhesive under the back portion (centered above the Stereo/Nav area) where the metal clip seems to fail, causing most dashes to vibrate from the drop. I couldn’t tell if you added anything in there or just covered all the weak points.
Any plans to reinforce the mounting surface, or do you think the dash will be enough?
I think he's talking about the area behind where a center speaker is on some models where the tab for the defroster vent cover clips intoI have never seen any cracks above the stereo area- do you have any pictures of where that might be? And no other plans, all I've seen the cracks are the areas I added epoxy to.
LEDs have really changed the automotive industry.While initially it’s probably going to cost a fortune, I see Milwaukee has expanded their selection for vehicle maintenance lighting. This one isn’t even out yet, but is a very creative idea. Prob best served for full time mechanics or those individuals with a lift.
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M12™ Underbody Light | Milwaukee Tool
MILWAUKEE® M12™ Underbody Light swivels 300° horizontally and up to 180° vertically for unmatched maneuverability and hands-free lightingwww.milwaukeetool.com
Which product did you use?Had a minor argument with a concrete bollard guarding a fire hydrant at the CVS the other evening. Ended up being the excuse I needed to switch the front bumper cover to bedliner paint so future scratches and minor damage will be easy to cover up. Much as I'd like, I can't see dropping $2000+ and having to upgrade the front springs on a $9000 truck just for a heavy metal offroad bumper. I'm just not quite yet ready for a winch.
Anyway - finished product. I couldn't get the passenger side where I walloped it completely popped back into shape but given its future, I'm not too worried. This thing attracts big boy scratches and dents at a rate very unlike my '95 Tahoe. I'm thinking that the curves on this model, while really good looking, don't make for sight lines at the corners like the square fendered models had.
At least I'm gonna stick to that as my story...
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That looks pretty good actually.Had a minor argument with a concrete bollard guarding a fire hydrant at the CVS the other evening. Ended up being the excuse I needed to switch the front bumper cover to bedliner paint so future scratches and minor damage will be easy to cover up. Much as I'd like, I can't see dropping $2000+ and having to upgrade the front springs on a $9000 truck just for a heavy metal offroad bumper. I'm just not quite yet ready for a winch.
Anyway - finished product. I couldn't get the passenger side where I walloped it completely popped back into shape but given its future, I'm not too worried. This thing attracts big boy scratches and dents at a rate very unlike my '95 Tahoe. I'm thinking that the curves on this model, while really good looking, don't make for sight lines at the corners like the square fendered models had.
At least I'm gonna stick to that as my story...
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Which product did you use?
I took the air dam off thecopcar due to clearance. I’ve thought about the border patrol trim @Bill 1960 has, but the push bar is down there too.After sanding everything, I used 1.5 cans of Raptor's black to get where that is along with some Bulldog adhesion promoter in spots where I had trouble getting sandpaper on the paint to any great degree. Got the Raptor at AutoZone, IIRC, but it's available in a lot of stores. We'll see how it holds up.
I've thought about running a complementary color of the tintable Raptor all around the beltline for a full two-tone paint job but I'd need to get a compressor and the 4-litre kit to do that. Not sure it's worth it to me right now. Besides, Bill 1960's air dam-less TrailHoe build is talking to me...
I really was hoping to get a hoe with a push bar, but at this point I'm glad I didn't. It definitely creates an approach angle issue, and I think I would have had a tough time getting rid of it's looks/function for off-road function.I took the air dam off thecopcar due to clearance. I’ve thought about the border patrol trim @Bill 1960 has, but the push bar is down there too.
Now that's utilitarian!Had a minor argument with a concrete bollard guarding a fire hydrant at the CVS the other evening. Ended up being the excuse I needed to switch the front bumper cover to bedliner paint so future scratches and minor damage will be easy to cover up. Much as I'd like, I can't see dropping $2000+ and having to upgrade the front springs on a $9000 truck just for a heavy metal offroad bumper. I'm just not quite yet ready for a winch.
Anyway - finished product. I couldn't get the passenger side where I walloped it completely popped back into shape but given its future, I'm not too worried. This thing attracts big boy scratches and dents at a rate very unlike my '95 Tahoe. I'm thinking that the curves on this model, while really good looking, don't make for sight lines at the corners like the square fendered models had.
At least I'm gonna stick to that as my story...
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View attachment 349630
View attachment 349631