What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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iamdub

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Before:

IMG_2277.JPG


During:

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After:

IMG_2279.JPG


The color matches better from normal angles and lighting:

IMG_2280.JPG


IMG_2281.JPG



Thanks for the lead, @mazdawg(Mikey)!
 

Doubeleive

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Likely too late now, but I’d just say to try moving around with a pry bar, to see how easily it moves, as with pretty much anything underneath.


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they have a rubber bushing so I'm guessing they are designed to have some movement, I think at least some of my noise may bad lower ball joints just have to get it in somewhere for a second opinion
 

Sam Harris

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they have a rubber bushing so I'm guessing they are designed to have some movement, I think at least some of my noise may bad lower ball joints just have to get it in somewhere for a second opinion
Right, obviously they move a bit. But shouldn’t move too much // too easily.


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BourbonNcigars

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they have a rubber bushing so I'm guessing they are designed to have some movement, I think at least some of my noise may bad lower ball joints just have to get it in somewhere for a second opinion
My suspicion is the same. I'd think it has to have some freedom (not too much, though) to keep the drive train movement flowing without completely binding.
 

kbuskill

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Before:

View attachment 216582

During:

View attachment 216583


After:

View attachment 216584

The color matches better from normal angles and lighting:

View attachment 216585

View attachment 216586


Thanks for the lead, @mazdawg(Mikey)!

What did you remove the gold with???

Lacquer thinner and a Q-tip???

Is that part of the instructions for install or are you just that ****???... lol

*** EDIT***

Nevermind I just saw your post in your build thread about it... didn't see that before I posed these questions.
 

iamdub

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What did you remove the gold with???

Lacquer thinner and a Q-tip???

Is that part of the instructions for install or are you just that ****???... lol

*** EDIT***

Nevermind I just saw your post in your build thread about it... didn't see that before I posed these questions.

Just an alcohol prep pad. I use them for everything: Cleaning cell phone screen, automotive bulbs, and any surface to which I'm applying a decal/sticker. Plus, I like the smell of rubbing alcohol. When it comes to stickers, I aim to make them look like they were printed on the surface directly. Trapped specks of dirt and air bubbles eat at me.

Anyway, I rubbed the gold part pretty hard to ensure it was completely clean. When I was done, I saw what I thought was a speck of something stuck to the gold part. When I tried to pick it out with my fingernail, I realized it was a tiny flap of the gold overlay sticking up. The alcohol softened it and I rubbed through in that one spot. It all came off with about three minutes of scratching with my fingernails. I'm glad this happened cuz that $5 sticker would've been stuck over a de-laminating layer which likely would've caused it to lift soon.

The only instructions that came with the decal was "Top" roughly scribbled with an ink pen on one side of the bow tie. It looked the same to me flipped either way, but I followed their "instructions" when placing it.
 

BourbonNcigars

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I saw what I thought was a speck of something stuck to the gold part. When I tried to pick it out with my fingernail, I realized it was a tiny flap of the gold overlay sticking up. The alcohol softened it and I rubbed through in that one spot. It all came off with about three minutes of scratching with my fingernails.
Scenarios like this are why I keep 80 to 5000 grit sandpaper in the tool box at all times.
 

iamdub

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Scenarios like this are why I keep 80 to 5000 grit sandpaper in the tool box at all times.

Not sure I've ever handled more than 2000 grit. Is 5000 grit basically lotion-free Kleenex?

Speaking of, I thought about using a fine sanding tip on a Dremel to scour the whole chrome part to give it an evenly dull finish, then use a slightly coarser grit rubbed in one direction to give it a brushed finish in efforts to match the brushed silver trim pieces on the steering wheel.
 

BourbonNcigars

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Not sure I've ever handled more than 2000 grit. Is 5000 grit basically lotion-free Kleenex?

Speaking of, I thought about using a fine sanding tip on a Dremel to scour the whole chrome part to give it an evenly dull finish, then use a slightly coarser grit rubbed in one direction to give it a brushed finish in efforts to match the brushed silver trim pieces on the steering wheel.
Not sure how fine a grit you can get on an attachment for a Dremel (best tool ever), but I don't see why that idea wouldn't work.

Past 3000 grit is useful for paint correction. If you've never sanded your paint before, it can be nerve wracking the first couple times. Just have to be slow and realize that it'll buff out (assuming you went light) with the proper technique and compound(s) with even a cheap orbital buffer.
 

iamdub

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Not sure how fine a grit you can get on an attachment for a Dremel (best tool ever), but I don't see why that idea wouldn't work.

Past 3000 grit is useful for paint correction. If you've never sanded your paint before, it can be nerve wracking the first couple times. Just have to be slow and realize that it'll buff out (assuming you went light) with the proper technique and compound(s) with even a cheap orbital buffer.

I buffed out the ghosting in the clear coat after I debadged mine. I actually used a polishing compound to avoid being too aggressive. I think with as long as it took, I could've used rubbing compound. But, better safe than sorry. Used a $20 (or $15?) DA buffer from Walmart. I imagine 3000+ grit paper would've worked even faster, then I could've polished that out with the buffer and polishing compound. Oh well, it's been done.
 
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Yeah video to follow... spent tonight trying to come up with a cool spot for the bottle. I think I can get this to work and look very clean... I’ll probably leave the back panel off of the console.

View attachment 216613
Otherwise refilling the bottle may be a bit tough... Lol

I used to run nitrous on my mustang. The instant power was cool. I used an rpm activated window switch wired into the throttle position sensor that would only allow the nitrous to run between certain rpms and only when at WOT. It had a master arming switch.

Got tired of paying/filling bottles and put a Vortech supercharger on along with a meth injection kit

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18
 

lowh07

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Otherwise refilling the bottle may be a bit tough... Lol

I used to run nitrous on my mustang. The instant power was cool. I used an rpm activated window switch wired into the throttle position sensor that would only allow the nitrous to run between certain rpms and only when at WOT. It had a master arming switch.

Got tired of paying/filling bottles and put a Vortech supercharger on along with a meth injection kit

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

Yeah, I got a window switch for it. I have an LSA supercharger (not installed)... but it’ll be a more extensive project. Gotta finish my old truck before I start on that. The plan is to run both blower and nitrous...
 

iamdub

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With all this recent talk about catch cans, I wanted to check mine since I'm only about 360 miles from my next oil change. As expected/hoped for, I drained right at 3 ounces. It's actually a hair more, but that coincides with the more frequent hard throttle and high-RPM runs I've had the liberty of since replacing those engine mounts. It's not bad at all for 5,000 miles of collection on an (alleged) 195,000-mile engine with plenty of heavy loads. It's less than 5/8 of an ounce per 1,000 miles- beating GM's specified allowance of HALF A QUART per 1,000-1,500 miles.

My scientifically calibrated (cuz I marked it at the bottom of the meniscus :rolleyes:) fluid volume measuring instrument:

IMG_2293.JPG




Of course, this is what the catch can collected and not what was kept out of the motor. I can only hope that it's a huge percentage of it. I guess the only real way to see how much oil the PCV system is passing and how effective a catch can is would be to cap off everything and have a vacuum pump that mimics the engine's vacuum in all instances pull from the catch can's outlet. The pump would need it's own catch can, as well. I'll just investigate when I pull the intake manifold during the AFM delete.
 

BourbonNcigars

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Doubtful anyone saw or remembers my custom three piece foam set I made for the Tahoe to make a bed, but I finally just went ahead and made that the default seat format. Something fun about having the bed area made up back there all the time. Especially with my $15 super soft luxurious Dollar General blanket over it. Feels like a little home. And it improves ****** efficiency. Yes, that's a Dewalt impact. Never leave home without it (and the appropriate sockets).

thumbnail_IMG_0558.jpg
 

Doug118

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Doubtful anyone saw or remembers my custom three piece foam set I made for the Tahoe to make a bed, but I finally just went ahead and made that the default seat format. Something fun about having the bed area made up back there all the time. Especially with my $15 super soft luxurious Dollar General blanket over it. Feels like a little home. And it improves ****** efficiency. Yes, that's a Dewalt impact. Never leave home without it (and the appropriate sockets).


I have a dewalt impact and tool bag full of sockets and a few wrenches that will never leave my truck
 

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