What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

alpha_omega

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2017
Posts
692
Reaction score
1,324
Location
Michigan
you're probably right.

didn't think of that. what a bad techs these days. ugh.
This can also happen if they don’t remove all of the nylon from the grooves. Those shaft ears are tweaked for sure. There’s no damn way it will be right again.

I wish buddy
bad news is a new oem one is no longer available
good news is a dorman one can be overnighted if necessary


These guys have them in stock and considering your style of driving, then you know you’re getting something that will last longer than the Dorman. They can overnight as well.
 

alpha_omega

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2017
Posts
692
Reaction score
1,324
Location
Michigan

Doubeleive

Wes
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2017
Posts
23,854
Reaction score
34,959
Location
Stockton, Ca.
This can also happen if they don’t remove all of the nylon from the grooves. Those shaft ears are tweaked for sure. There’s no damn way it will be right again.




These guys have them in stock and considering your style of driving, then you know you’re getting something that will last longer than the Dorman. They can overnight as well.
that place in Texas doesn't show one for the yukon, well it does but only a 53" (up to 2009) then it skips to 2015, mine is 61.5"
the local place said they can build me one for about $450 (race ready) steel, aluminum or carbon fiber
 

alpha_omega

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2017
Posts
692
Reaction score
1,324
Location
Michigan
Those are really nice. How many miles can you go between fuel stops?
If I pushed it to the limit and had perfect driving conditions theoretically I could get close to 800. When you add reality to the mix, needing to stop for breaks to empty the bladder, walk the dogs, stretch out, wake up - along with $hitty stop and go traffic, heavy wind…etc it’s more like 650-700. That way we are stopping at a good truck stop making fill ups quicker, we can add DEF fluid to the tank if need be and maneuver the rig to get back on the road much easier than some random gas station.
 

Doubeleive

Wes
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2017
Posts
23,854
Reaction score
34,959
Location
Stockton, Ca.
I took it back to the dealer early this morning and had them lube the slip yoke after going in&out a few times it needed to be done again, no charge the main manager is back from vacation, I guess they are dealing with whoever the tech was that did the u joints if I had not felt a vibration and never looked at it, it could have been catastrophic down the road.
I will probably get another drive line at some point it's not 100% like it was but it will work for now
 

alpha_omega

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2017
Posts
692
Reaction score
1,324
Location
Michigan
that place in Texas doesn't show one for the yukon, well it does but only a 53" (up to 2009) then it skips to 2015, mine is 61.5"
the local place said they can build me one for about $450 (race ready) steel, aluminum or carbon fiber
Yours is a one piece unit? What’s the OEM p/n?
 

m1dn

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2022
Posts
178
Reaction score
316
So last weekend i was changing oil with my wife's 18y brother who has never touched a wrench before.
Was briefly showing what's where under the car and while doing so noticed one of the bolts on sway bar bushing was busted and the bushing was held on a single bolt.
( No wonder the handling felt wierd and bumps sent my wheel kind flying around, eh? )

When i took the bushing out, found out the area between bolt holes on where that bushing attaches has rotted out - https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/sway-bar-attachment-rotting-out.142499/
And removing the rusted bolt turned out to be quite an adventure!

Took me almost all day to remove that bolt, tried welding until it snapped, then went to drilling and tapping aaaand repeat.
The bolt was reeeeeally rusted in, even when 1nanometer of the bold was left, it was still stuck inside the threads :\

Will be ordering a proper replacement piece when it snaps off thanks to member linking a right part in the thread above.
Meanwhile cleaned the area and welded a piece of sheet metal and painted with rust-stop paint.
And installed new bushings.

Turns out the car hundles much much better with in-tact sway bar bushing and doesn't throw the wheel around in potholes!
Attaching some pics of before/after

Edit:
New tools - HF Welder, tap set, carbo drill bits
Price - Priceless, would do it again!
 

Attachments

  • photo_5852826748750773508_y.jpg
    photo_5852826748750773508_y.jpg
    176.5 KB · Views: 5
  • photo_5852826748750773507_y.jpg
    photo_5852826748750773507_y.jpg
    148.8 KB · Views: 5
  • photo_5852826748750773506_y.jpg
    photo_5852826748750773506_y.jpg
    142.6 KB · Views: 5
  • photo_5852978064743579268_y.jpg
    photo_5852978064743579268_y.jpg
    230.6 KB · Views: 5
  • photo_5852978064743579267_y.jpg
    photo_5852978064743579267_y.jpg
    110.1 KB · Views: 5

j91z28d1

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2022
Posts
2,043
Reaction score
2,361
anyone know where to get gm documents? a tsb references a procedure outlined in GM document number(long number) but I can't find it anywhere in the software I have access to, or Google.

if it's in a gm service manual, this is for someone else, but guess I'm going to wanna buy one. kinda annoying.
 

89Suburban

Bull in the china shop
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2013
Posts
13,330
Reaction score
36,653
Location
SE PA
So last weekend i was changing oil with my wife's 18y brother who has never touched a wrench before.
Was briefly showing what's where under the car and while doing so noticed one of the bolts on sway bar bushing was busted and the bushing was held on a single bolt.
( No wonder the handling felt wierd and bumps sent my wheel kind flying around, eh? )

When i took the bushing out, found out the area between bolt holes on where that bushing attaches has rotted out - https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/sway-bar-attachment-rotting-out.142499/
And removing the rusted bolt turned out to be quite an adventure!

Took me almost all day to remove that bolt, tried welding until it snapped, then went to drilling and tapping aaaand repeat.
The bolt was reeeeeally rusted in, even when 1nanometer of the bold was left, it was still stuck inside the threads :\

Will be ordering a proper replacement piece when it snaps off thanks to member linking a right part in the thread above.
Meanwhile cleaned the area and welded a piece of sheet metal and painted with rust-stop paint.
And installed new bushings.

Turns out the car hundles much much better with in-tact sway bar bushing and doesn't throw the wheel around in potholes!
Attaching some pics of before/after

Edit:
New tools - HF Welder, tap set, carbo drill bits
Price - Priceless, would do it again!
I just went through that sht on mine a few months ago. I tried to drill out the broken bolt and it went off center. So I drilled the hole big enough to slide a new bolt through and lock nut on the top. PITA.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
129,425
Posts
1,815,891
Members
92,638
Latest member
hillstrubl

Latest posts

Top