What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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alpha_omega

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And the other question is where is the best place to buy a new one? Has anyone had any issues with damage during shipment or warranty issues with one distributor versus another?
 

Geotrash

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Alright here goes…I’m in a bit of a dilemma. While I have the front end removed and the 40k unhooked, should I just bite the bullet and replace the radiator now?
While I’ve never had any heat issues, I am at 96k miles (6.2l) so time is ticking for the radiator. These are usually what a 150-200k replacement if they don’t get clogged or fail before that timeframe?
I replaced the water pump and all the hoses, fittings, clamps as well as the oil cooler lines, power steering lines and the pump. If I am replacing the radiator, do I need to replace anything else while I’m in there - mounts, clips, support frame…etc?

I know over in the tru-cool thread we all recently discussed which Rad is better versus which is easier to “plug and play” without extra dissection of the supports, but I can’t remember if we discussed any of the other replacement items. I’m sure someone (or many) has at one point or another in this thread.

So…whatcha got for me? Do it while it’s in pieces and before it’s too late?

Thanks…
No need to replace the core supports and the new radiator should include them anyway in case yours are rotted out, but I doubt it. And if you buy a direct-fit OEM radiator, you won't have to mess with adding any restrictions to the bypass tube, etc. But I would replace the coolant tees at the firewall if you haven't already, along with the heater hoses and wye, since you didn't specifically mention those. The correct one for the Yukon Denali that will match the original in core thickness is this one: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dnp-221-9514 Note that Denso is the OEM manufacturer for GM also.

Nearly all of the others listed as fitting it on sites like RockAuto, Autozone, etc actually have a thinner than OEM 1" core. But I measured my core when I replaced the one in my '07 and it's 1.3" thick.
 

alpha_omega

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No need to replace the core supports and the new radiator should include them anyway in case yours are rotted out, but I doubt it. And if you buy a direct-fit OEM radiator, you won't have to mess with adding any restrictions to the bypass tube, etc. But I would replace the coolant tees at the firewall if you haven't already, along with the heater hoses and wye, since you didn't specifically mention those. The correct one for the Yukon Denali that will match the original in core thickness is this one: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dnp-221-9514 Note that Denso is the OEM manufacturer for GM also.

Nearly all of the others listed as fitting it on sites like RockAuto, Autozone, etc actually have a thinner than OEM 1" core. But I measured my core when I replaced the one in my '07 and it's 1.3" thick.
Awesome. Thanks. I am debating between Mishimoto and OEM, just for the simplicity of not having to monkey with cutting anything. I figure if I need the restrictor (as per the TSB), I will just cut it off my old one.
While I did replace the hoses and the wye, I do have the firewall tee fittings on hand but haven’t yet replaced them, since mine were in damn good shape as compared to most. I was more worried about breaking something off at or behind the firewall while trying to replace a currently fully functional part.

If I’m not mistaken, wasn’t part of their issue do to heat, and the other part related to excessive hose movement either the result of broken motor mounts or while other repairs are being done. Or do I have that mixed up with something else?
 

alpha_omega

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Nearly all of the others listed as fitting it on sites like RockAuto, Autozone, etc actually have a thinner than OEM 1" core. But I measured my core when I replaced the one in my '07 and it's 1.3" thick.
I didn’t realize they were 1.3”, which is odd because the Mishimoto is listed as having only a 1” thick core.
 

Doubeleive

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View attachment 400024View attachment 400025
We ran out of road in a 45mph zone yesterday, so I didn’t quite make it to 140.
I’m still happy with the fact I sold that car, but do not like the newer Denali's enough to buy one and have it sent to Hennessy. I’ll send my 2011 before I send a new one.
I just pretend mine is something fast by driving around in m3 :driver:
 
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I hardly use the rear liftgate glass button above the license plate and just noticed last night that the rubber cover is dried out and breaking down leaving black Soot on your finger. Is the cover replaceable or do you have to replace the entire switch?
 

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