What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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iamdub

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Installed the new Dorman ALC compressor. It performed the self-check as it should, so I plugged the factory air line into the remnant of air line on the Air Lift bag. I squeezed the bag to push some of the air out and deform it before I hooked it up. When I started the Tahoe, the bag quite noticeably began to return to it's original shape just with the few seconds the compressor was running for the self-check.

I managed to cram one of the Air Lift bags into the stock coil but realized it was sized for the much wider drop coils. It wouldn't pop out to it's normal shape because it was too constricted by the narrow stock coil. Oh well. At least now I know the ALC system is functional and that the compressor will inflate the Air Lift bag much faster than expected. I also confirmed that the factory air line makes a tight fit into the Air Lift air line. All I'm gonna have to do is run some short pieces from the Air Lift bags to the end of the factory air line that used to connect to the shock. I'm gonna pull the compressor fuse so everything is just how it's been. The system will be restored and implemented when I drop it.
 

Rocket Man

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Installed the new Dorman ALC compressor. It performed the self-check as it should, so I plugged the factory air line into the remnant of air line on the Air Lift bag. I squeezed the bag to push some of the air out and deform it before I hooked it up. When I started the Tahoe, the bag quite noticeably began to return to it's original shape just with the few seconds the compressor was running for the self-check.

I managed to cram one of the Air Lift bags into the stock coil but realized it was sized for the much wider drop coils. It wouldn't pop out to it's normal shape because it was too constricted by the narrow stock coil. Oh well. At least now I know the ALC system is functional and that the compressor will inflate the Air Lift bag much faster than expected. I also confirmed that the factory air line makes a tight fit into the Air Lift air line. All I'm gonna have to do is run some short pieces from the Air Lift bags to the end of the factory air line that used to connect to the shock. I'm gonna pull the compressor fuse so everything is just how it's been. The system will be restored and implemented when I drop it.

upload_2019-7-15_19-46-54.gif
 

Doubeleive

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still on my quest for more charging power, battery's tested good, the "calibrations" were all updated by the dealer and everything tested good, (for free), seems to maybe be working more steady now with just the one ac delco battery installed, it still went to "fuel economy mode" when I turned everything on but it didn't switch as quickly, they said these things are dependent upon how many amps it really needs so if it commands 15v it also takes feedback and if 15v is not required it won't do it kinda weird but they said that's how it works, they said the system could go down to 10.6v before kicking into charge mode I had only let it go down to 11v (apparently 10.5v is some kind of magic number battery wise from what I have read), and it also depends on what it's actually getting at the battery/alternator and not necessarily by the gauge. I still don't like it, I am waiting for a couple different battery insulators to come. also still researching what my other options are it seems xs power makes some controllable voltage regulators, but not for the 2-pin alternators, I am going to ask them if I ran a 4-pin alternator (like the nbs's) if it could be wired to "lie" to the bcm/volt meter and make it work that way, I think all it would need is a volt signal for the gauge and something to tell the bcm it has voltage so it doesn't trigger a "service charging system"
they have some nice looking controls in red or blue led

xs.JPG
 

Doubeleive

Wes
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talked to a guy at quality power he said I can do a external regulator but.....there is no way around the "service charging system" message, so that would have to be programmed out of the bcm or I can run a alternator that puts out the "amps" needed at idle so it's not draining the battery, they sell a $435.00 250amp alternator that gives 160amps at idle or a $530.00 320amp that gives 180amps at idle, ouch....
 

mikeyss

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The way they program the charging system is weird to say the least. This was at lunch today, I know it's not quite up to operating temp, but it was 95 degrees when I snapped this picture. Both cooled seats on, both front and rear A/C on full, fogs on, and engine cooling fans were on high. The voltage was where I like it with all that load on. However, later today, it was back down to around 12v or a little above sitting in traffic under the same conditions.

20190716_124109.jpg
 

Doubeleive

Wes
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The way they program the charging system is weird to say the least. This was at lunch today, I know it's not quite up to operating temp, but it was 95 degrees when I snapped this picture. Both cooled seats on, both front and rear A/C on full, fogs on, and engine cooling fans were on high. The voltage was where I like it with all that load on. However, later today, it was back down to around 12v or a little above sitting in traffic under the same conditions.

View attachment 226891
i'm thinking I may just bite the bullet and buy a mechman there 320amp says it does 200amps at idle (hot) I may have to run a slightly smaller belt, but my conclusions are I need more amps at idle otherwise it's going to be draining the battery, amp calculator say's I need 245amps (with everything going)
 

Rocket Man

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i'm thinking I may just bite the bullet and buy a mechman there 320amp says it does 200amps at idle (hot) I may have to run a slightly smaller belt, but my conclusions are I need more amps at idle otherwise it's going to be draining the battery, amp calculator say's I need 245amps (with everything going)
Ouch. $$$$
 

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