TTY head bolts with engine in-vehicle

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iamdub

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ARP hardware is worth it in my opinion and it’s a lot simpler to just tighten the shit out of them vs the stock bolts where you have to tty and go through that bs plus you can reuse arp stock is usually one and done as the bolt stretches out

Some of us do shit right the first time so we don't have to take it apart but once every 200K miles. :bleh:

I get what you're saying, though. I like TTY cuz it's cheap ($50 for a full set of head bolts and $7 for a crank bolt) and it's accurate. TTY eliminates the variance between torque wrenches. There's no calibrating a protractor. 90° is 90°.
 
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strutaeng

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IMO, that's actually on the lighter end of expected wear for that mileage. This engine looks to have been treated to regular oil changes with a quality oil and not abused. AFAIK, the bottom end will need to be disassembled to install the cam bearings. Supposedly, they can be installed with the rotating assembly in place but it's a PITA. I've never tried. Anyway, if it needs to be disassembled, you may as well do a full rebuild with a cylinder honing and new rings and bearings at that point. If it ran fine with good oil pressure, didn't smoke, made no noises, etc., and I wasn't gonna beat on it, I'd have no problem cleaning it and reassembling it as-is. I'd be running a little heavier oil than the recommended 5W, though.
I didn't get a chance to remove the engine yet, only got the TC bolts and we had a huge downpour.

Yes, engine ran fine with 40 psi of oil pressure. I bought the rig with 225k, but it seemed like it was well taken care of by the 2 previous owners.

I did go out and buy a ball hone and new piston rings, and was planning on doing a quick hone job. But this dang rain messed up my plans. I had to just settle back and clean the rockers and valve covers and watch the rain in my garage. I was initially thinking just cam/lifters to get me to 300k, then do a full rebuild...but here I am, LoL


I really want to build myself a giant carport, at least I can wrench if it rains.
 

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Eldiablo

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Hello. I'm doing a top end refresh on my 06 Suburban LQ4 (lifters, cam, refreshed heads, gaskets).

I removed the heads yesterday and found the rear most head bolts are pretty tight to the firewall. I happen to have just bought a 24" flex head ratchet, which was perfect for the job (admittedly , I was using a shallow socket and some extensions as that was I could find at the moment). But I'm kinda doubtful I'll be able to install the new head bolts in those 90 degrees sequence for the final requirement. I have a digital 24" torque wrench I'm planning on using for this.

Any tricks to doing that job? My buddy is suggesting ARP hardware. SMH.
First off if your using the original head bolts do not do torque to yield. They dont streth anylonger and you will break them. There was a study done, used gm head bolts are stronger than brand new arp stuff. Look it up. I beleive you do the first pass 25 lbs second at 50 and I do the last at 75. Never have had a comback in my life im 58.
 
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strutaeng

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Finally got the engine out. Not sure why this truck has a block heater. AFAIK, it's always been a Texas truck. I'll probably remove that since I've never even used it.
 

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strutaeng

strutaeng

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I guess I'll continue with the thread...

Tore everything down to the bare block. Everything looks pretty darn good. Like, I'm pretty impressed, given the miles. Just a bit of carbon near the piston wrist pin area, but nothing horrible. Bearings look excellent. Piston rings move freely.
 

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strutaeng

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I ball honed the cylinders yesterday...good enough for the girls I go out with!

I cleaned one piston/rod... H O-Lee Chit Batman, what a tedious job, LoL. 7 more to go today.

Engine rebuilding I'm finding is a slow, stinky, dirty and tedious process. I see why it's expensive to get an engine rebuilt.
 

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